Night Vision Seeing your bubble level at night for long distance shooting.

[cake5150]

Yes, I realize bubble levels aren't absolutely necessary but the areas where I shoot distance have extremely uneven terrain and I have witnessed the difference a bubble level makes. I don't want this to turn into a discussion about whether bubble levels are tools or crutches, I really like mine and would like an effective way to see it at night without broadcasting my position (like with a head lamp).

I looked into the Vortex Flare but decided I really don't like the idea of the level being mounted on the rail instead of the scope tube. I like setting the scope tube bubble up with a plumb bob at 50 yards to make sure my reticle is actually level when the bubble is centered. It occurred to me that I could stick the Vortex Flare on a tube mounted pic rail, but it seems like that might be less than ideal. Another thought I had was installing the Flare on the receiver rail, then rotating the scope/tube level combo (already been trued to gravity) so that the bubbles were in synch. That way, even though I'm looking at a receiver mounted bubble I know my scope/reticle is also level.

So, the question is how do those of you who night shoot out far enough for a bubble to matter see your bubble? I am in the process of experimenting with a Princeton Tec Point light but I'm not yet sure how that is going to work out. Any suggestions, no matter how far out there, would be appreciated.

 

[Sledge1]

Yes, I realize bubble levels aren't absolutely necessary but the areas where I shoot distance have extremely uneven terrain and I have witnessed the difference a bubble level makes. I don't want this to turn into a discussion about whether bubble levels are tools or crutches, I really like mine and would like an effective way to see it at night without broadcasting my position (like with a head lamp).

I looked into the Vortex Flare but decided I really don't like the idea of the level being mounted on the rail instead of the scope tube. I like setting the scope tube bubble up with a plumb bob at 50 yards to make sure my reticle is actually level when the bubble is centered. It occurred to me that I could stick the Vortex Flare on a tube mounted pic rail, but it seems like that might be less than ideal. Another thought I had was installing the Flare on the receiver rail, then rotating the scope/tube level combo (already been trued to gravity) so that the bubbles were in synch. That way, even though I'm looking at a receiver mounted bubble I know my scope/reticle is also level.

So, the question is how do those of you who night shoot out far enough for a bubble to matter see your bubble? I am in the process of experimenting with a Princeton Tec Point light but I'm not yet sure how that is going to work out. Any suggestions, no matter how far out there, would be appreciated.

There are several companies that make small lights to mount on bow sights and are pretty dim. Ya might be able to rig something up with one of those.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

I built a illuminated bubble level about 5yr ago using a vortex level and mounting a luninock light in it. Worked awesome.

 

[wigwamitus]

My digital device which display inclination in both degrees and cosine ... also shows cant in degrees and shows heading in degrees. Usable day or night.

Heading
Pitch
Roll

HPR100

 

[wigwamitus]

Got the idea from the UTC which also displays HPR, but only displays the pitch (inclination) in degrees. It was easy to add cosine, so did that for the home grown device.

 

[wigwamitus]

Here's the new improved HPR102 ... 100% water proof, improved display, improved power consumption (which has been the main issue). Mountable to both top rail and side rail. And it remembers its calibration from one power off to the next power on.

You can see the larger image versions if you click on the images.

 

[Crang]

You can order a tritium vile for the Accuracy First level. Its designed to use it.

 

[CoryT]

The Accuracy 1st level has a provision for a tritium vial, which can be purchased here
https://www.mixglo.com/vials.html

Various electronic levels like the HPR and SendIt can also be used.

 

[cake5150]

Wow, thanks for all the helpful replies in such a short time! I did not realize that accuracy-first had provision for a tritium vial, that is genius. They also apparently make something called a level light. Will be doing some more reading later today but those are some excellent options.

 

[onetopgun]

Here's the new improved HPR102 ... 100% water proof, improved display, improved power consumption (which has been the main issue). Mountable to both top rail and side rail. And it remembers its calibration from one power off to the next power on.

You can see the larger image versions if you click on the images.

PM Sent

 

[Jimgal62]

Have you looked at Send It digital bubble level?

https://www.longrangearms.com/

I use it in comps and hunting.

 

[wigwamitus]

The sendit handles one of three functions handled by the HPRxxx.
01 - Cant (degrees)
02 - Inclination (both degrees and cosine)
04 - Azimuth (useful when doing 360s to help you return to critter of interest ... like "Coon at 317, deer at 196, return to Coon at 317" ... and in a team setting ... "Yote at 23 degrees, 508 yards my position")

HPR replicates the digital display in the BAE UTC-x but makes it available for NV (non-digital) clipons as well. And can even be used in the day time!

 

[phlegm]

Seems interesting: https://iotaoutdoors.com/store/zerolight/zerolight.html

Accuracy 1st users: https://www.mixglo.com/store/c2/Vials.html

 

[Thud]

My digital device which display inclination in both degrees and cosine ... also shows cant in degrees and shows heading in degrees. Usable day or night.

Heading
Pitch
Roll

HPR100

You forgot to attach the coffee maker to the thing.
Dang that's a lot of stuff.

 

[cake5150]

Yep, I had to resurrect this thread I forgot about since I finally wound up with a truly effective solution that kills three birds with one stone. My primary precisionish day/night scoped rifle is a lightweight home built Aero/Ballistic Advantage w/ a 2.5-10x32 optic on it. I have never been thrilled with the cheek weld I got from ~1.5" optic mounts such as the LT-104/204, American Defense, etc when it came to precision shooting. 100% fine for most AR shooting, but not ideal for long distance precision IMHO. I didn't want the additional weight of an adjustable stock like the PRS I have on my 6.5 Creedmoor heavy gas gun and the LaRue RISR/CTR combo I have for my lightweight 6.5 Creedmoor gas gun added just a little too much height. I tried a couple different scope ring heights to get it right and landed on 1.25" being about perfect for use w/ my standard LaRue RAT stock. This put the cheek weld where I wanted it, shaved a few more ounces off vs. the LT-104, AND magically made so I could see my bubble level at night... from the output light coming out of the clip-on. The lower height of the rings coupled with the smallish 32mm objective lens of the scope puts the scope tube mounted bubble level just inside the green periphery of the clip-on since the clip-on's optical center is ~0.25" higher than the day scope's. I'm not on a two way range (and if I was, I'd use the stray light shroud and probably be shooting at much closer distances where bubbles are largely irrelevant) so the green glow coming out of the clip-on is not a hindrance/liability for me. So far, the scope being 0.25" lower than the clip-on has displayed no POI shift when compared to a centered day optic. I just was not thrilled with the other options I had tried, this has worked out great

Again, I'm not looking to debate the validity of bubble levels. I'm convinced they have their place (when properly mounted and leveled to the reticle/gravity) for distance shooting on uneven ground and just wanted a reliable way to see mine in the dark. Hope this helps someone at some point!

 

[wigwamitus]

BTW, I am still working on the HPR103, probably 104 is next ... maybe this will become a produce one day. But it keeps getting delayed due to higher priorities

WIth the UTC/x/xii not needed, since HPR is built in. But for those using NV clipons, this is a very useful critter.