Manners stock questions

[patriot07]

My first nice stock. All sorts of dumb questions:

What is the right torque for the action screws and for the adjustable cheekpiece?

Is there any tutorial on the adjustable cheek piece? Do I have to lock it into one of the ridges on the posts, or just get it to the right height and tighten it down?

It has pretty limited clearance to my CTR barrel. If I re-barrel later, can I upgrade to a larger diameter barrel and sand it down to get free float, or do I need a new stock?

 

[ForgeValley]

My first nice stock. All sorts of dumb questions:

What is the right torque for the action screws and for the adjustable cheekpiece?

Is there any tutorial on the adjustable cheek piece? Do I have to lock it into one of the ridges on the posts, or just get it to the right height and tighten it down?

It has pretty limited clearance to my CTR barrel. If I re-barrel later, can I upgrade to a larger diameter barrel and sand it down to get free float, or do I need a new stock?

Cheekpiece torque, I always just cinched it down till it doesnt slip, and never worried about the ridges, just got it to the correct height. Someone will be along shortly to give you the correct answer however.

 

[bulldog911]

Ya I just snug it up myself, I need to get the thumb wheel deal so I dont have to carry around an allen key. As for barrel channel, yes you can open it up if you get a larger diameter barrel. Only thing that would change in that aspect would be a different action. You can always take material away, just cant put it back if you F it up

 

[m1match]

I just tighten mine down snug with an Allen wrench and my cheekpiece does not slip. The vertical with ridges has a steel clip on it so you can move the clip to your correct height. That way when you remove it you can drop it right back on at the correct height.

 

[patriot07]

Ya I just snug it up myself, I need to get the thumb wheel deal so I dont have to carry around an allen key. As for barrel channel, yes you can open it up if you get a larger diameter barrel. Only thing that would change in that aspect would be a different action. You can always take material away, just cant put it back if you F it up

You must know me....

 

[shotdown]

My first nice stock. All sorts of dumb questions:

What is the right torque for the action screws and for the adjustable cheekpiece?

Is there any tutorial on the adjustable cheek piece? Do I have to lock it into one of the ridges on the posts, or just get it to the right height and tighten it down?

It has pretty limited clearance to my CTR barrel. If I re-barrel later, can I upgrade to a larger diameter barrel and sand it down to get free float, or do I need a new stock?

Action screws. Point Rifle Up
2. Hand tight both Front and Back screws.
3. Tighten front screw to 45 pounds.
4. Tighten back screw to 45 pounds.
5. Tighten front screw to 65 pounds.

If you use the ridges to install the c-clip, it helps prevents changing your setting should it lossen up. Manners does sell the long cheek posts, which sounds like you may need those.

You can sand it down but make sure you reseal it. Best thing to do is to contact Manners and ask if they can do it for you. Although I run Med Palma, I order my stock with an MTU or M24 barrel channel to avoid this.

 

[patriot07]

Action screws. Point Rifle Up
2. Hand tight both Front and Back screws.
3. Tighten front screw to 45 pounds.
4. Tighten back screw to 45 pounds.
5. Tighten front screw to 65 pounds.

If you use the ridges to install the c-clip, it helps prevents changing your setting should it lossen up. Manners does sell the long cheeck posts, which sounds like you may need those.

You can sand it down but make sure you reseal it. Best thing to do is to contact Manners and ask if they can do it for you. Although I run Med Palma, I order my stock with an MTU or M24 barrel channel to avoid this.

Thanks.

Other thing I ran into is the Tikka bolt runs into the cheek piece. I have a fairly low-mounted 30mm scope, so I wouldn't have thought that it would be a problem, but it is. the cheek piece has a cutout, but it doesn't go all the way through the material, so you can only raise it so much before the bolt hits.

 

[shotdown]

Thanks.

Other thing I ran into is the Tikka bolt runs into the cheek piece. I have a fairly low-mounted 30mm scope, so I wouldn't have thought that it would be a problem, but it is. the cheek piece has a cutout, but it doesn't go all the way through the material, so you can only raise it so much before the bolt hits.

They may be able to cut a small section of the cheek piece. I would contact them and have all the work done at the same time.

 

[patriot07]

They may be able to cut a small section of the cheek piece. I would contact them and have all the work done at the same time.

Is that something they would charge for? Should have been designed differently...

 

[shotdown]

Is that something they would charge for? Should have been designed differently...

I don’t know as I don’t work for them but maybe @tmanners can assist. He’s the owner. However, I do shoot for Manners Stocks.

 

[Diver160651]

Thanks.

Other thing I ran into is the Tikka bolt runs into the cheek piece. I have a fairly low-mounted 30mm scope, so I wouldn't have thought that it would be a problem, but it is. the cheek piece has a cutout, but it doesn't go all the way through the material, so you can only raise it so much before the bolt hits.

First it it super easy to relieve material... BUT The scope to comb height is relative..-- Low rings = Low height..

Every-time I see someone with very low rings and a high comb height they are NOT straight behind the gun. On a bench they have turned hips, prone they are off at an angle.

You see this in F-class a lot! When turned behind the gun, the head lays over more and the cheek rest (comb) needs to be higher. On a bench hips and feet should be perpendicular to the butt stock, hips back and bent at the waist so that the shoulders are in front of the hips and also square.. Prone spine inline.. Positional try for as much of the same as the match directors obstacles allow.

Before cutting up the comb, I'd make sure you are using really good fundamentals..

 

[m1match]

Using a 1-1/8" wood dowel wrapped with sandpaper is a really easy way to open up the barrel channel and was suggested by Manners customer service. They also said that there is no need to apply any sealer to the areas that are sanded and that they just paint it for cosmetic purposes.

 

[tmanners]

My first nice stock. All sorts of dumb questions:

What is the right torque for the action screws and for the adjustable cheekpiece?

Is there any tutorial on the adjustable cheek piece? Do I have to lock it into one of the ridges on the posts, or just get it to the right height and tighten it down?

It has pretty limited clearance to my CTR barrel. If I re-barrel later, can I upgrade to a larger diameter barrel and sand it down to get free float, or do I need a new stock?

Hi Patriot07, Just saw your post, looks like the guys got you some answers , If you want shoot me a PM with your contact information, i will give you a buzz and walk you thru it. Thank you

 

[patriot07]

Hi Patriot07, Just saw your post, looks like the guys got you some answers , If you want shoot me a PM with your contact information, i will give you a buzz and walk you thru it. Thank you

Thanks! I'll shoot you a PM. I'm leaning towards believing that Diver is right and my fundamentals need some work. My rig (heavy-ish, low recoil, accurate, really good trigger) is forgiving of mediocre fundamentals, which of course is good and bad. But I love the look and feel of the stock, and I want to figure out a way to make it work and improve my technique.