Yes, 7 WSM. That’s the only factory 7mm Desert Tech offers. Great all around performer if you can find the brass for it.
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Barrel update. I had Eric at ES Tactical make a barrel in .308 22.5 with a left hand twist. I highly recommend it. I have found that if you are a right hand shooter that it will twist the rifle into you and sims to make follow up shots quicker. Now this works for me and may may not work for you. But keep an open mind and try it. I will very highly recommend ES for your next barrel. Accuracy is sub half and I have even gotten a sub .250 with factory and hand loads. The chamber was cut for A-Max.
Question for the HTI 50 cal. shooters....
I have a 416 Barrett barrel that came with the 50 cal DT brake on it. The OD threads on the brake are M25x1.5. Does the Elite Iron Alpha suppressor thread on to the brake like my 375 CT or do you have to remove the brake and direct thread only?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Todd
I have a 416 Barrett barrel that came with the 50 cal DT brake on it. The OD threads on the brake are M25x1.5. Does the Elite Iron Alpha suppressor thread on to the brake like my 375 CT or do you have to remove the brake and direct thread only?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Todd
Have you done any velocity tests ?
So I finally got a Covert conversion and a 18" 6.5cm conversion kit for Xmas! I'm really digging the smaller package. I tried the 26" 338 barrel with the covert handguard and it works and looks fine with it.
Unfortunately the handguard I got was FDE and my rifle upper is black. Anyone want to trade their black covert handguard for an FDE covert handguard? I emailed DT to see if they'd replace it, still waiting for a response...
Unfortunately the handguard I got was FDE and my rifle upper is black. Anyone want to trade their black covert handguard for an FDE covert handguard? I emailed DT to see if they'd replace it, still waiting for a response...
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Anyone have a 338 Lapua or 300NM conversion kit they are looking to get rid of?
Anyone has any contact with ES tactical lately? I ordered a 6.5 barrel during their sale in the early part of November. I emailed them on the 14th if this month and got a response it would be a little longer but my latest emails have not been answered.
Im sure it a delay due to the holidays but just wondering.
Im sure it a delay due to the holidays but just wondering.
I'm almost positive the EI can for 50 BMG for DT is made to thread onto the DT 50 BMG brake, but way to find out is call EI. Because calling DT doesn't seem to work reliably these days. SAD!
I'm not Eric's spokesperson, but I did hear that his shop is backed up and I think he may have a lathe down, at least that's what's holding up one of my barrels which is a bit behind schedule. Also, as you say, holidays, which are even a bigger deal for family time in Utah than in other states.
I'm confident he will catch up.
I'd call though if you need to talk to him, or message him via FB/the ES tactical website.
EI claims they do not make a suppressor that threads on to the DT 416/50 cal (M25x1.5) brake. They say you have to remove the brake from your barrel and go direct thread. My question is..... WTH are the threads for on the OD of the brake then?
I've been bugging the hell out of Eric for a barrel I wanted for a January deer hunt. He evidently had family/holidays + a lot of demand from that sale put him behind the ball. Sounds like they're running barrels whenever they can. I'm hoping mine ships this week.
Any of you guys with coverts run into this problem? I’m ready to install my covert handrail and noticed a couple of issues.
I want to reattach my RRS plate but the covert Handguard is not tapped for the single rear screw to attach the RRS plate. 2 screws may be enough but I’ll probably tap it for the rear screw.
The second issue is the RRS plate will not fit unless I remove the 3” pic rail. A 2” would work but I can’t seem to find one. Is there a way to attach my Atlas bipod to the RRS rail?
I want to reattach my RRS plate but the covert Handguard is not tapped for the single rear screw to attach the RRS plate. 2 screws may be enough but I’ll probably tap it for the rear screw.
The second issue is the RRS plate will not fit unless I remove the 3” pic rail. A 2” would work but I can’t seem to find one. Is there a way to attach my Atlas bipod to the RRS rail?
Perfect, didn’t see that on their website! Appreciate the info.
This is what I did so I didn't have to setup a bipod to the RRS rail. Bought an aluminum rail from Primal rights and machined it down to fit.
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I have the Primal Rights rail but no way to mill it. Great idea. Did you tap the hand guard for the rear RRS plate screw? If so what size is it?
Just got an ES Tactical barrel in 308, 22.5 inch, 1/10 twist a took it out to the range yesterday to use as my trainer barrel! Shot FGMM 175g factory ammo, and was getting consistent 0.25-0.5in groups! Shot it out to 600 yards, very happy so far!
Just using a DTA muzzle brake for the moment with a optional grizzly blast sheild went I need to quiet it down.
One thing I didn’t think of before hand, was how I was going to get muzzle velocity with my magnetospeed. Ended up using a small riser and 1in aluminum rail I bent by hand to mount it (15 mins to make). Took a little fine tuning and needed to be extra careful so I didn’t strike it, but it worked!
Anyway, I’m very happy with it, I just ordered a 338 lapua barrel from him as well, 28 inch, straight taper! Can’t wait to get it!
Just using a DTA muzzle brake for the moment with a optional grizzly blast sheild went I need to quiet it down.
One thing I didn’t think of before hand, was how I was going to get muzzle velocity with my magnetospeed. Ended up using a small riser and 1in aluminum rail I bent by hand to mount it (15 mins to make). Took a little fine tuning and needed to be extra careful so I didn’t strike it, but it worked!
Anyway, I’m very happy with it, I just ordered a 338 lapua barrel from him as well, 28 inch, straight taper! Can’t wait to get it!
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I never did tap the hand guard, I was wanting to remove it from the gun to do it. I am still waiting for a dealer to call me back when he got one from DT but that was a month ago. This is what size I was told but didn't verify it. M4-.70
when did you order it?
also, you can run the magneto straight on the handguard with 22" barrels
10-4 I’ll verify before moving forward
Ordered Oct 3rd...you’re running the sporter magneto version on the handgaurd and it works? Do you just change the sensitivity to 2?
Thanks
Can anyone confirm if the .338 DT suppressor safely mounts on the .308 DT muzzle brake? Thanks!
It does. I use that can on all my dt barrels, except the sac223rem conversion. I use the dt338 on 338lm through 6cm , including a 308win dt factory barrel. It works nice , I like it.
Many thanks! I just picked up one on their inventory reduction sale but am glad I do not have to switch brakes
I have a Covert and was wondering if anyone knows whether or not I can fit a PVS-30 on the rail in front of a S&B 5-20 US? I have a PVS on the way and was just excited/curious and didn’t want to go to the longer rail if it could be avoided.
Thanks!
Thanks!
The PVS-30 wont fit on your Covert handguard; you need the standard full length SRS handguard. It might fit if you had the S&B Ultra Short, but it’s iffy. Add some of the buttpad spacers and move the scope back a few rails, see how much room you’re working with.
There are always folks looking to trade out their SRS handguard for a Covert handguard though.
There are always folks looking to trade out their SRS handguard for a Covert handguard though.
My nightforce NXS and ATACR both end right about the end of the handguard. My rifle is a gen 1 so I don't know if the GenII is the same or not but my guess is no way you can put anything on the rail in front of the scope and see it. I have seen some guys with adapter rails that use both side rails and the top to make a stable solid mount for any of the starlight or thermal sights that mount in front of your scope. They allow you to use your short barrels without a set of special pliers to install them.
Frank
Frank
Thanks Frank, that may be a good idea! I don’t have my Covert here with me, but I have approx. 4” in front of my US. I think it will be very close.
The lock is just an extra safety feature to keep the barrel from falling out as far as I can see. There are some makers who don't put the notch in so you can't use the lock. Also note that most barrels don't have a slot, they have a shoulder where the shank reduces diameter. That shoulder is a stop point for the lock.
If you can turn your lock bolt than there is either a slot or clearance that allows it to turn. If that is the case than chances are it will prevent the barrel from falling out anyway. The shank and barrel extension are both larger in diameter than the available space when the lock is engaged so the locked barrel can't go past it. Try locking your barrel in with the clamp bolts loose and see if you can pull it out of the receiver.
Frank
If you can turn your lock bolt than there is either a slot or clearance that allows it to turn. If that is the case than chances are it will prevent the barrel from falling out anyway. The shank and barrel extension are both larger in diameter than the available space when the lock is engaged so the locked barrel can't go past it. Try locking your barrel in with the clamp bolts loose and see if you can pull it out of the receiver.
Frank
That lock notch is extraneous. Most guys dont use it. Ive left it off and havent messed with it since.
I keep forgetting the lock is there. It’s not part of my barrel change process.
For those of you who don’t use Facebook; Mark at Short Action Customs posted this last night. Looks like he is trying to address the magazines. I’d love to give them a shot!!
This is from my ESTactical LH 1-10 twist. Both loaded 44.5 gr Varget. The 155 are st 2790 and the 168 at 2725. The barrel has a little over 600 rounds in about 3 months. Hag the rifle for almost a year and total round count is 2700 or so.
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Would this work for 284 Winchester?
It may work. I think he’s designing it for the SAUM, PRC, and WSM cartridges though.
Ok basic question here and my Google fu has not paid off or my skills are lacking. I am looking at a DT SRS A1 in 300WM. This is a caliber I do not shoot, and do not see in my future. What other than a barrel, torque wrench, and ammo would I need? Would I need a bolt as well? Just trying to wrap my head around this....
Thank you in advance and stay safe.
Thank you in advance and stay safe.
If you’re looking at buying a chassis, it’s only going to come with the chassis. You’ll need the barrel, bolt, and magazine, aka “conversion kit”. You’ll also need a 70 or 80 in lb torque wrench. Lots of barrels are bought and sold on the Post Exchange here, so you could always sell the barrel (and bolt) if you need to or trade for a caliber you are going to shoot with.
Thank you for your information Pinhead. I should have written this in my original question. I am on duty and trying to find information between calls.
Its actually a complete rifle in 300WM. Its a LH rifle, I know, Im the dreaded lefty. Would I need just the barrel, or bolt/barrel combo?
Its actually a complete rifle in 300WM. Its a LH rifle, I know, Im the dreaded lefty. Would I need just the barrel, or bolt/barrel combo?
Copy that. Right now I shoot .308 and 6.5CM with my AI AX. So I see myself shooting more of those calibers rather than switching to the 300WM.
Then you’ll need a 308 boltface left hand bolt and a barrel that has a left hand extension. Lots of vendors here can make a barrel to your specs and get parts. You may want to look at getting the .473 bolt head itself and swapping just the bolt head if that makes more sense to you.
Awesome! I was just looking at SAC and their work, in addition to ES-Tactical. Seems like a good place to start and make a few things happen. Thanks Pinhead! Ill be reading up on this thread as the trade for the DT progresses.
Is there a reason you’re looking at one in 300wm if you have no plans of shooting that caliber? Are lefty’s tough to come by?
I am about to attempt to swap my A1 hand guard to a covert. I have the tool to remove and reinstall but I have heard it can be very thought to break loose. Do I need to take the skins off before I attempt this? I have custom Ceracote job and a little weary of putting a torch to it?
Just looking for some advise.
Just looking for some advise.
