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Redding 3-Die Set Question.

little_scrapper

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
May 31, 2019
459
298
Yes I am searching and reading on it.

I received my 3 die set and read the instructions which state the seating die is set up for a roll crimp. However by backing it off one turn I can use it without crimping. My question is: Seeing as I intend to load precision 308 for my AR10; do I need to order a seating die set up for a tapered crimp? Or should I just back off one turn and have no crimp? Am I correct that the neck resizer if for giving proper neck tension thus not "needing" a crimp? *shrug* I haven't given much thought to bullets but I imaging Nozzler or SMK or whatever. I do not believe they have a cannelure.

Thanks in advance for explaining things to the guy who is about to become a beginner reloader.

P.S. my tumbler and pins showed up today also and I have a couple dozen LC M118LR casings I may tumble for a couple hours.
 
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Questions? Should I have ordered an S-Type bushing neck die instead of the regular die? Or should I just use the regular die until I get a better handle on all the nuanced aspects of reloading?

Like every other beginner I don't want waste money to buy a regular die then quickly find out I want/need should have bought a better tool. I don't even know how much I don't know. But Im sure its a lot.
 
You don't need to crimp for your AR-10 loads. Set the die up for non crimp. Since you're beginning, I would use the regular dies until you get a good handle on the reloading process. There is a learning curve. Read up on the use of bushing dies. I use about 5 bushing and at about $25.00 a pop, it can get expensive. The neck thickness of your brass will dictate the bushing size you will need. It's not for everyone.

If I was going to start all over, I would buy a Redding F/L BODY die, a Lee Collet die and a Forster or Redding mic seater. It make reloads with very low runout. I use this setup for 223 and 308 loads in gas guns and bolt guns. This is a cheaper route than the bushing die route.

Like I said, you need to read up and learn all of the reloading processes and when you're ready, then go to the more advanced reloading techniques if needed. Your regular dies might make very accurate ammo.

First thing is learning how to properly set up your F/L sizing die so you don't over or under size the brass. This is the first issue you're going to run into.
 
Thanks Flight. Im that guy who will spends days reading up on it to make sure I understand it before I do it. However, The bushing neck die sounds very straight forward. In a nutshell load a round, measure the neck, buy bushing a thousandth or two smaller than the measured number depending on your desired neck tension.

To start I will be reloading casings from my spent M118LR rounds. I get that stuff STUPID CHEAP!! So that's what I generally shoot. Therefore, It's already sized for my chamber. From my reading I just need to bump the shoulder back a few thou. Still reading on this.

Thanks again for the input though. Most everything I read about the process seems very logical and straight forward. However, the neck tension aspect seem to be more of an artform in that its never really quantified by hard numbers. Like case length, head space etc. Hard numbers easy to pin down. Neck tension? Not so much. Aside from saying neck it one thou smaller or something.
 
I full length size every time with a lee sizing die, and seat with a normal lee seater. No neck bushings to deal with, no micrometers, or anything like that. I still get half inch groups. It's less about the equipment and more about your own consistency preparing and loading the ammo. You can have the best loading equipment in the world and load crappy ammo... or you can have a lee hand loader and load .3 moa groups at the range (some old benchrest guy I saw once).

If i was going to get new dies, i would probably opt for the rcbs comp micrometer seater. The loading window thingy just excited me for some reason lol
 
If I was going to start all over, I would buy a Redding F/L BODY die, a Lee Collet die and a Forster or Redding mic seater. It make reloads with very low runout. I use this setup for 223 and 308 loads in gas guns and bolt guns. This is a cheaper route than the bushing die route.

I ran bushing dies till I found out about the lee collet dies.

Now the above listed dies are all I use.

If I can’t get a lee Collet for a cartilage I either have Lee make one or I modify one myself if possible.

Bushing dies work as long as you have consistent brass and your not having to size the neck down a lot.

Don’t bother crimping.

At this point I’d run a custom honed Forster die before I went back to bushings.