Ok guys need some input. I'm new here and tried doing a search and couldn't find anything. Anyway I have a gen 1 Rem 700 Sendero in 25-06. I shoot factory Hornady 110 ELD-X out of it. When I close the bolt it is much stiffer than it used to be. It's not like I have to beat the bolt closed, it's just stiff. I've cleaned the rifle and chamber but it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions on the cause or where I should look next?
Hard to close bolt
- Thread starter M76
- Start date
Check your extractor. Sometimes they get some gunk under them and don't want to pop over the rim of the case.
Its not likely a headspace issue if it was fine before. Its not likely jammed bullet with factory ammo and a Remington chamber.
Get the Teslong bore scope and inspect your chamber and throat. It may be a carbon ring forming.
Also, look at your striker assembly to make sure it isn’t dirty on its surfaces.
Also, look at your striker assembly to make sure it isn’t dirty on its surfaces.
Take one of the rounds and mark it up with a sharpie marker on the bullet, neck, shoulder and base. Single feed it into the chamber and close the bolt. Remove the round and inspect for interference marks in the marker.
Edit: I’ve got a few lots of Hornady brass in different cartridges that are larger than my Go gauges for those chambers. So in a minimum chamber, they’d hard close or not close at all. Probably a headspace issue like supercorndogs said. Could be the radius between the neck shoulder junction as well, which would present the same way in closing feel.
Edit: I’ve got a few lots of Hornady brass in different cartridges that are larger than my Go gauges for those chambers. So in a minimum chamber, they’d hard close or not close at all. Probably a headspace issue like supercorndogs said. Could be the radius between the neck shoulder junction as well, which would present the same way in closing feel.
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Edit: The ring looks worse in the picture than it actually is. Had a hard time getting the camera to focus and still be able to see it.
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It's coated with a sharpie marker. The "scratches" you see are where the marker didn't cover very well
Redding body die 75120 will fix it up no problemo . Just a slight bump is all you need . Turn the die down until it sits on the case a bit at a time turn the die down slowly 1/32 of a turn at a time sizing each time until the cartridge goes back in the chamber and the bolt closes easy . If you creep up on that easy bolt close you know you have not oversized and set the die there . This is not dangerous as the dimensions of the chamber are still the same when a case is fully expanded , so pressure curve is the same . Also put some grease on the cocking cam and the bolt lugs as they may be getting dry and galling , small amount . I invented my first body die back in 1968 for this very same reason but found it has even more benifits . It was to fit varying military ammo in my Parker Hale sniper rifle . Every now and then you could not close the bolt easy and had to jam it down , the problem for me was the shorter civilian chamber compared to the more generous Military chambers . It only take a few thou to make it hard . Jamming it in is not good for the action and sometimes it can cause hard extraction also if it's tight in the diameter . Go slow as it's only going to need a very small bump .
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I would not let the gunsmith deepen the chamber . Just do as I have said above and size cases and ammo to fit . That way you get a nice minimum stretch fit right from the first shot . If a standard body die will not do it in the diameter buy a small base die
I wasnt suggesting a smith alter the chamber, only check his chamber against a gauge to determine where the problem is. If it turns out the ammo is oversized, Hornady should replace it.
If his chamber is short, having to resize factory ammo to correct the issue isn’t ideal either. Kinda defeats the purpose of buying factory.
If his chamber is short, having to resize factory ammo to correct the issue isn’t ideal either. Kinda defeats the purpose of buying factory.
It's no big deal to bump your factory ammo but your right the factory gun should not cause a problem but reamers vary , machine setups vary , operators vary , factory ammo varies so it's not that uncommon to get this issue . The reason I don't like deepening the chamber only a few thou is the reamer can chatter easy under those circumstances and may be better used by hand . Or wrap brown paper around the reamer body to tighten it up on first cutting contact .
I understand what you’re saying, but bumping shoulders on rounds that are $1.30 each is ridiculous. It’s 2019, and it’s ok to expect guns and ammo that are inside their respective tolerances. He should determine what the problem is first, and address the issue. That shouldnt involve additional labor on his part to correct a screwup on the part of the rifle or ammo manufacturer.
If the gun is under warranty then take it back to where he bought it . If that's not practical then contact them and they may direct you to a smith . I myself like a minimum clearance case fit right from the first shot they shoot better and the brass lasts longer . However I understand your needs . You may not have any use for my advice but others might .
There is no guarantee the factory ammo is correct. I had some Remington factory .270 ammo that wouldn't feed properly. Sounded like a cannon when it went off. DIdn't need a hammer to get the fired case out but it was tough. Didn't have the tools or knowlesge in the 80s, just knew something was wrong. Went buy another box and there was no issues. Sent letter to Remington and they had me ship the box to them. Replaced replaced the ammo.
Im going to say its a QC issue w Hornady brass. Try a box of Federal or Nosler and see if your problem goes away.
Not a gunsmith but if this load shoots better than what it replaced, would lapping the lugs a bit clean this up ?
My 6 Creedmoor would not chamber factory Hornady 6 Creedmoor ammunition. I called they said the chamber was cut wrong. Funny thing is it was chambered for Hornady factory ammunition. I just pulled the 108ELD’s and loaded the rounds with Berger 105’s (seated to the proper depth) and all was good. I had issues with Hornady and a Savage one time and again Hornady blamed Savage. See a pattern here?
This and a dial caliper will tell you a lot about fitting brass to headspace. https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1...cxIX5D6xtHx0TsKY1Rw-Km6ZczoWecthoCQ7kQAvD_BwE
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I am going to order a set of gauges for it and try a different brand of ammo. Never hurts to have a set of gauges to keep an eye on it. I had not considered the galling issue but it is a possibility. I went on a hunt in the high desert last season and everything got a heavy coat of dust on it riding around in the side by sides. It is possible some of the dust got on the bolt lugs and caused a little galling or even scratched the locking surface in the action resulting in a little bit of rust although I don't see any signs of rust or residue on the bolt lugs. I don't reload so working on the brass isn't an option for me. I really hope it is an easy fix. I have had this rifle for many years. It has been a faithful companion and fed my family well. It is still very accurate for a factory rifle and I hate messing with something if it isn't broken. Thanks again for all the info and I will let you know what I find out after the gauges arrive.
Good news guys! It's the brass. Went and dug up some old Federal rounds I had out in the garage. Cycles normal. What a relief. That said is there any issue shooting the Hornady rounds? Like I said I don't have to beat the bolt closed it's just stiff. I have about 100 rounds left.
I had a similar experience w Hornady Match 6.5 PRC ammo. 2-3 out of 20 wasn’t sized correctly. I just forced the bolt closed and shot. My first 160 rounds of factory than I started loading for it. No issues now!
Forcing the bolt closed now and then if it's a push feed is not so bad but doing it too often can wear the action in key places.
I solved this problem in 1968 by inventing the * body die * Redding produced them in secret for 20 odd years because they stole the idea . If you can get a factory body die for your caliber that's easy . If you can't you can modify a FLS die into a body die .
I solved this problem in 1968 by inventing the * body die * Redding produced them in secret for 20 odd years because they stole the idea . If you can get a factory body die for your caliber that's easy . If you can't you can modify a FLS die into a body die .
