Gunsmithing Punches... Good ones?

[drum13]

Looking for some recommendations on quality punches that won't bend from regular use for things like trigger installations and AR assembly.

I've tried several different brands over the years, some that claim they're steel, tried expensive brass punches and all have bent out of shape and are about as sturdy as a damn toothpick.

Willing to spend the money on a nice set that will last instead of having to buy a new set every time I need one.

Thanks!

 

[Jlknights61]

I like grace punches. Have a set of roll pin and brass.

 

[Waorani]

Starrett

 

[TxWelder35]

Snap on

 

[Easy_E]

Thank you for asking this looking myself for some good ones. I still have a hole in my finger from a 1/16" Dasco that shattered first time using it.

 

[diverdon]

I like my starrett's but it is easy to bent them. You want a fairly soft steel so that it does not mar or deform what you are driving with it.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Those cheap ass precision screw driver sets

 

[jcam]

I like grace punches. Have a set of roll pin and brass.

+1 for Grace

 

[Old_Longhair]

Starrett

▲▲▲'Nuff said. ▲▲▲

 

[carlsbad]

All punches will bend if subjected to bending forces. Work on your technique.

Choose a short punch to start a tough pin. don't use a long punch until you have it moving.

 

[VSP968]

For ARs, you really should be using roll pin punches....

The Starrett punches are good for other stuff...

 

[Mk32784]

Graces or Starretts.

It’s important to have the right type for the work your doing.l

 

[drum13]

Thank you guys, really helpful! Those Starretts look pretty solid.

Just curious where ya'll are getting the Snap-On tools? Back in the day, you could only get them from the Snap-On guy that visited your garage in the truck.

 

[Centuriator]

Looking for some recommendations on quality punches that won't bend from regular use for things like trigger installations and AR assembly.

I've tried several different brands over the years, some that claim they're steel, tried expensive brass punches and all have bent out of shape and are about as sturdy as a damn toothpick.

Willing to spend the money on a nice set that will last instead of having to buy a new set every time I need one.

Thanks!

If you are actually bending even minimally priced punches installing a trigger group....you are hitting them way, way too hard because you are not installing the trigger group properly. Heck, you can push them in by hand and then gently tap the rest of the way with a hammer and ball point pen cap.

 

[drum13]

Lol, this is true... I was being a bit sarcastic but it's definitely a skill I need to work on. Removing factory-installed parts is what usually mangles them for me and I have always bought the cheap punches. I don't get much practice when using them only once in a while... also why I could never justify the cost of buying quality punches.

 

[VSP968]

Thank you guys, really helpful! Those Starretts look pretty solid.

Just curious where ya'll are getting the Snap-On tools? Back in the day, you could only get them from the Snap-On guy that visited your garage in the truck.

Mine came from the Snap-On truck but I’m now retired... I’m pretty sure you can buy direct on line from Snap-On

 

[drum13]

Admittedly a major part of the issue could be technique or lack thereof... However, I've never tried using quality punches.

 

[Easy_E]

Ejector pins in savage and Rem 783 are a pain to remove they must be under 1/16" ?

 

[carlsbad]

Ejector pins in savage and Rem 783 are a pain to remove they must be under 1/16" ?

Ejector pins are pretty easy if you have the right tools. I remove and reinstall several per week as I bush a lot of firing pins. They are 5/64 nominally. Most roll pins are pretty easy to get out if you have the right punch and are tapping it square. I don't remember the last time I had a problem with an ejector pin.

But I do have a set of short roll pin punches to get difficult pins broken loose. The worst ones are gas block pins on ARs that get glued in with hot combustion products.

The firing pin cross pins on Remington can be very tight. some people give up and send them to a gunsmith. I have a fixture to put them in so the back side is supported and I can hit it very hard with a short punch to get it moving. This is a 3/32" solid pin.

My dad was a master bricklayer and cutting brick with a hammer was part of the job. I guess hammering accurately may be in my genes.

--Jerry

 

[fdkay]

We always sent the new guy down to engineering to get a DC punch

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Starter punches, meaning reworked broken punches, are your friend.

 

[hermosabeach]

I'll answer the question differently.... you want 2 sets... a stubby set and a long set...

Start with a stubby to minimize bending and breakage....



Your original punch set... might need to be shortened to a stubby set once you have bent some of them

 

[Centuriator]

Which raises the question in my mind....how often are you guys using punches on your firearms? I get it if you are a professional gunsmith, but .... otherwise .... seriously, how often and why?

I have found this set to work fine for all my needs: handguns and rifles, etc.

TEKTON Gunsmith Punch Set, 18-Piece | 66564 - - Amazon.com

TEKTON Gunsmith Punch Set, 18-Piece | 66564 - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

[__JR__]

One example in a gas block taper pin case, I'll usually start the drive with a stronger tapered pin punch to get it started then finish out with the cylindrical punch.