My findings: Expander mandrel vs bushing die

To add into my earlier statement and response, non prepared/load developed brass/ammo, that wasn't annealed after factory manufacturing, that holds a 1.5 inch group at 100 yards is shows annealing does not give a good return on investment for both time and money.

I was trying to stay with you, but your repeating this statement makes me think your motives are not aligned with what most are doing. The people that are only interested in capping brass to send a piece of lead down the pipe and say 'look I hit a 100 yard target' are not interested in figuring stuff out. If you are only interested in seeing if you can get a neck to outlive the primer pocket without annealing, well you are wasting your time as that has been done and most don't give a care. It may very well prevent you from understanding why annealing matters.

If your goal is precision at 100 without annealing, and shoot until the primer pocket blows, then do what some of the old timers did - run you case mouth wide so it has minimal tension, charge the case, start the bullet and leave it long, then finish seating it by clambering the round. It works, and works well, but you need to turn the neck and have a match chamber otherwise you won't get a good seal thus making a mess of the chamber and possibly not burning all the powder. You can't do this with LR rounds as you need to build enough pressure to carry that bullet to where the BC is kicking in, meaning you need velocity. You don't need any of that stuff for 100 yards.

A round that is good at 100 yards says nothing about what it is going to do at 1000 yards. Distance requires pressure - this is THE reason whey K&M has 2 different force packs for their arbor press; the low forcepack is for benchrest, not LR. I run into guys that mainly shoot out to 300 and they say using an expander is the bomb. Yeah, sure, whatever. Then they go somewhere that they can shoot to 1k and their stuff don't work. So then the read or ask around, ditch the expander, and then they get pressure problems because the charge that worked with the lose neck does not work with more tension.

If you are only shooting 100 and are concerned about brass life just go build a killer 22LR and be done with it. You are going to save a bunch of money and have more time to shoot. If you decide to make this about maintaining precision beyond 100 yards without having to adjust/redevelop loads while not annealing, then maybe I will read on as I am not aware that anyone has solved that.
 
How would you go about to quantify bullet pulling pressure? I have a hornady cam bullet puller, would there be a gauge that'd attach to it? I'm up for anything that would produce good data.

You will need to dig around. There is a guy on another site that rigged something up with a fish scale attached to something, but I am not sure what the something is.
 
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Expander balls have a tendency to create runout based on their floating nature and your "negatively" supporting the case as you pull the ball through the neck.

I run a Dillon S1050.

I do use a size die with expander in station 1 for straightening out neck that have been whacked by a Garand op rod or otherwise boogered prior to going into the Rapid Trim size die in a following station and getting trimmed.

After the rapid trim I run an expander mandrel because the Dillon rapid trim squeezes necks down reediculously tight.

The expander mandrel should enter and exit the case on a much more centerline attitude than a floating expander ball and the case is "positively" supported as its pushed down into the shell plate.

It gets my necks the .001 grip people like.

i get that a mandrel may go in and out a bit straighter and may create a bit straighter neck but(stupid question)what makes it better? is actually something you see on paper? are your numbers better? do you feel your rifle is more accurate? is there actually an real world data on expander vs mandrel or is just something everyone THINKS is a better way?
 
When I switched from a Redding bushing die to a Forster honed die and mandrel, I saw immediate improvements in SD's, ES's and accuracy at all ranges. It seemed to be about a 25% improvement overall and that's fairly significant in this game. I'm talking about shooting averages of .3's with the occasional .1 in there and that's all I really look for with a practical rifle.
 
I was trying to stay with you, but your repeating this statement makes me think your motives are not aligned with what most are doing. The people that are only interested in capping brass to send a piece of lead down the pipe and say 'look I hit a 100 yard target' are not interested in figuring stuff out. If you are only interested in seeing if you can get a neck to outlive the primer pocket without annealing, well you are wasting your time as that has been done and most don't give a care. It may very well prevent you from understanding why annealing matters.

If your goal is precision at 100 without annealing, and shoot until the primer pocket blows, then do what some of the old timers did - run you case mouth wide so it has minimal tension, charge the case, start the bullet and leave it long, then finish seating it by clambering the round. It works, and works well, but you need to turn the neck and have a match chamber otherwise you won't get a good seal thus making a mess of the chamber and possibly not burning all the powder. You can't do this with LR rounds as you need to build enough pressure to carry that bullet to where the BC is kicking in, meaning you need velocity. You don't need any of that stuff for 100 yards.

A round that is good at 100 yards says nothing about what it is going to do at 1000 yards. Distance requires pressure - this is THE reason whey K&M has 2 different force packs for their arbor press; the low forcepack is for benchrest, not LR. I run into guys that mainly shoot out to 300 and they say using an expander is the bomb. Yeah, sure, whatever. Then they go somewhere that they can shoot to 1k and their stuff don't work. So then the read or ask around, ditch the expander, and then they get pressure problems because the charge that worked with the lose neck does not work with more tension.

If you are only shooting 100 and are concerned about brass life just go build a killer 22LR and be done with it. You are going to save a bunch of money and have more time to shoot. If you decide to make this about maintaining precision beyond 100 yards without having to adjust/redevelop loads while not annealing, then maybe I will read on as I am not aware that anyone has solved that.


First and foremost, I got the verification that no annealing was done to the 5 rounds fired 32 times. Post was updated to note this.

Honestly, I repeated the same shit over and over because I was basically walking people through my thought process. (IE, I didn't think 100% of the people were capable of making connections between points, so I did my info/details barney style just like what I did here.)

Clarifying again, I used the data from 32 firings because it was
1.) data from an outside test
2.) 5 rounds fired 32 times showed that with no annealing,
3.) The group size was an added bonus that showed the brass was still usable at firing 32 AND had usable accuracy.

If I had followed up with MY data first? I am pretty sure I would have gotten much more nitpicking. Now, as of this Saturday 9/7/19, the 50 rounds I set aside for practice have had 9x reloads, with groups still 3/4moa or less, with a velocity of 2821, SD of 7 at a density altitude of 2660.

As for my practice regiment,
I'll usually put 5 rounds for use through the chrono to see where I am at, and 5 rounds at 100 yards to see how I'll be shooting that day, then the remaining 40 rounds are used for distances from 500 to 1100 yards. If I had known I'd have to prove anything, I would have taken results on paper targets. I'll be sure to do so next time I go training.) I then go back to 100-300 and practice shooting group exercises in the prone/modified prone on a 22lr bolt until I get bored.

My reloading process?
- Deprime via frankford arsenal hand deprimer
- Wash in wet tumbler (15 minutes, with lemishine+dawn) + dry in dehydrator (30 mins)
- Resize via Redding FL die. (Redding T7, not a bushing die, no decapping rod/expander ball, imperial sizing die wax)
- Expand neck with 21st Century expander mandrel + die (Used with Imperial Dry neck lube)
- Prime via RCBS hand primer
- Weigh powder via pharmaceutical scale +/- 0.02 grains (0.01 Grain accuracy)
- Seat bullet via Redding Competition seater die

In between every process, cases are gauged to ensure +/- 0.0005 consistency. The entire process takes around 2 hours for 50 rounds from cleaning to loaded ammo. In comparison to when I started, I had an SD of 7 during 1x. My best SD is 3 after making sure powder charge was exact and all case dimensions were the same, at the cost of 3 hours per 50 rounds start to finish. To add more info, I have 300 pieces of Peterson brass. 250 pieces have an internal volume deviation of +/- 1.00 grains of water, fired 5x, and primarily used for competition. The 50 that I use to practice have an I.V. SD of 10 grains of water. Even with the volume difference, I've still been able to keep a MV and SD that is predictable.

With MY results, I haven't a need for anything to improve what I have. (For $400+, I can just buy 500 pieces of new brass rather than add a process that adds more time on the reloading bench.) With the understanding of the articles and papers, the argument that annealing has too small of a gain vs too high of an investment in is pretty strong. (I haven't even brought up Litz's findings, but do want to make it known that he did come to a similar conclusion.)

Without clear/direct empirical evidence, assumptions are just assumptions, hence is why I want to try annealing. I have new brass and am building an experimental process to validate the effects of annealing. Honestly, I could probably use most of the hide's thickheaded posters to find weak points in my experiment to develop a pretty inarguable outcome.


However, I suffer from the same problems most on these forums suffer:
I've saved enough money I'm willing to burn on tools and gear, and I am eye fucking an Annie annealer and AMP to test the actual use of a $500 to 1300 machine.
 
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When I switched from a Redding bushing die to a Forster honed die and mandrel, I saw immediate improvements in SD's, ES's and accuracy at all ranges. It seemed to be about a 25% improvement overall and that's fairly significant in this game. I'm talking about shooting averages of .3's with the occasional .1 in there and that's all I really look for with a practical rifle.

how many rounds did you shoot for your sample comparison?
 
i get that a mandrel may go in and out a bit straighter and may create a bit straighter neck but(stupid question)what makes it better? is actually something you see on paper? are your numbers better? do you feel your rifle is more accurate? is there actually an real world data on expander vs mandrel or is just something everyone THINKS is a better way?

Brother, you are going through what I am for annealing.

But the expander mandrel PUSHES the neck open, rather than PULLING the neck open in an expander ball.
The use of a mandrel allows the ID of the case neck to be more concentric. Less flex in the mandrel, the method of expanding leads to fewer chances of variation.

Realistically, I just like how the mandrel keeps the brass from growing too much and needing to be trimmed, but I did notice a significant consistency in my SDs and group sizes from my first firings to presently that wasn't there when I used the expander ball/decapping pin. I have kept my SD at 7 or less with the mandrel. The with expander ball and decapping pin I had SD's that varied from 4 to 14. With the expander ball and decapping pin, I was using Hornady, not Peterson brass though, so that could be a big reason why my SD's varied so much.

If you want data you are satisfied with, you're going to have to test it yourself, or trust in what people are telling you. (So very similar to my situation)
 
Brother, you are going through what I am for annealing.

But the expander mandrel PUSHES the neck open, rather than PULLING the neck open in an expander ball.
The use of a mandrel allows the ID of the case neck to be more concentric. Less flex in the mandrel, the method of expanding leads to fewer chances of variation.

Realistically, I just like how the mandrel keeps the brass from growing too much and needing to be trimmed, but I did notice a significant consistency in my SDs and group sizes from my first firings to presently that wasn't there when I used the expander ball/decapping pin. I have kept my SD at 7 or less with the mandrel. The with expander ball and decapping pin I had SD's that varied from 4 to 14. With the expander ball and decapping pin, I was using Hornady, not Peterson brass though, so that could be a big reason why my SD's varied so much.

If you want data you are satisfied with, you're going to have to test it yourself, or trust in what people are telling you. (So very similar to my situation)

actually ive already done all of this...ive done ALL this bench rest type loading..turning necks..uniforming flash holes and primer pockets..bushing only..bushing mandrel..bushing and expander...FL and expander..trimming and tipping bullets..weight sorting bullets and cases and on and on.

now in my opinion when you stack ALL of these tolerances its makes a difference but for the type of shooting i do the work put in does not make it worth it to me because im not shooting off a bench and/or a rest.
when i take samples its not 5 shots...5 shots mean nothing to me and reason why is i cant even remember how many times ive shot 5 even 10 rounds with 0 and 1-2FPS ESs...take the same gun,load and shoot 40-50 rounds and see where your numbers are...me personally if im under 30FPS im happy if im 20ish im real happy.

now here is a good example....this is from yesterday....i do not do any of the above and these cases were sized with a whidden FL bushing die and had that dreaded expander pulled back through the neck...the paper/dots was my fisrt time out finishing up load development...9 and 10 are 3 half mil low i adjusted scope on 11 then finished...13 i shot a few odd loads in...the magneto was my second time out to get dopes...2996 was first round.

personally relaoding is not my favorite thing so i look for ways to cut time not add more steps...love shooting but not so much reloading...when im to busted up to move i might go into BR or F-class where all this really matters.
 

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Just for the sake of argument... a lot of the 'ills' of using an expander ball can be mitigated quite a bit by *not* using the big honkin' stock 'plug' expander that is common on several brands of dies (Redding among them). Swap that out for their aftermarket floating carbide expander ball gets rid of pretty much all the supposed pain points about using the expander. That ball is small, hard and slick, so it drags much, much less than the OEM expander plug. It floats around the stem, so it self centers and doesn't pull the neck off center. And with a little judicious selection of the bushing size in a Type 'S' F/L sizing die, you can get it so the ball just barely 'kisses' the ID of the case neck on the way out. Just enough to make sure it's round, and to set the final ID (accounting for spring back, etc.).

The only real drawback is that for a very long time, you only had one choice for the ball size - .306 on a .30 cal, etc. so your ability to go really light or really tight on neck tension was somewhat constrained. I believe Whidden now offers a selection of expander ball sizes.

That said... I've been playing lately more with expander mandrels, and most recently in conjunction with Forster F/L dies with the neck honed to a specified size, rather than messing with bushings at all... and I'm liking what I'm seeing down range so far.
 
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Just for the sake of argument... a lot of the 'ills' of using an expander ball can be mitigated quite a bit by *not* using the big honkin' stock 'plug' expander that is common on several brands of dies (Redding among them). Swap that out for their aftermarket floating carbide expander ball gets rid of pretty much all the supposed pain points about using the expander. That ball is small, hard and slick, so it drags much, much less than the OEM expander plug. It floats around the stem, so it self centers and doesn't pull the neck off center. And with a little judicious selection of the bushing size in a Type 'S' F/L sizing die, you can get it so the ball just barely 'kisses' the ID of the case neck on the way out. Just enough to make sure it's round, and to set the final ID (accounting for spring back, etc.).

The only real drawback is that for a very long time, you only had one choice for the ball size - .306 on a .30 cal, etc. so your ability to go really light or really tight on neck tension was somewhat constrained. I believe Whidden now offers a selection of expander ball sizes.

That said... I've been playing lately more with expander mandrels, and most recently in conjunction with Forster F/L dies with the neck honed to a specified size, rather than messing with bushings at all... and I'm liking what I'm seeing down range so far.


If you want to get a pretty decent expander mandrel set up, hit up Kenneth D. Porter at Porter's Precision Products, LLC. He makes a die body that uses a collet to hold pin gauges. Pretty good for adjusting ID for tension out to 0.0001 if you're looking for that.
 

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Yeah, I'm familiar with that... it gets re-posted on AS *way* too often.

That said, I have one of those, along with a few mandrels from Ken, as well as my K&M expander mandrel die from before the Porter version was available. Pin gauges to +/- 0.0005 either side of what I'm shooting for as far as neck ID i.e. 0.3050 (GO), 0.3055 (NO-GO) works pretty well for me.
 
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Bushing dies with expander balls removed and then a mandrel to set neck tension is far and away the best method that I’ve found with regards to sizing.

I’ve had (and still have) “full custom” FL sizing dies that produce .003-.004+ runout with floating expander balls. The expander balls have since been replaced with a mandrel die from 21st Century and concentricity on the same brass is in the .001 or better range.

Furthermore, setting NT with a mandrel and graphite powder has provided more consistent velocities/spreads, even without annealing or further case prep.

Hardly scientific but results from a 6BR below using the same charge/bullet on 2x fired Lapua brass:

1. FL size w/ .261 bushing and expander ball - charge - seat
AV - 2805fps, SD - 9.9, ES - 25fps

2. FL size w/ .261 bushing no expander ball - .2435 expander mandrel w/ dry lube - charge - seat
AV - 2812fps, SD - 3.4, ES - 8fps

Again, definitely not a scientific test by any means but if nothing else, it’s shown me that the extra step in the process is worth the time invested.
 
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I call BS on people getting 15 reloads on lrp brass when running high pressure, the kind you need to get 140s past 2800 FPS which is what everyone boasts about when you read these threads.

It’s not about picking one or the other. Stop playing these stupid nitpicking games.
6 firings on Alpha LRP brass moving 147s at 2820 FPS with RL-16 and no loose primer pockets. It's not 15 firings, but they're still going.
 
This was verified over hundreds of rounds.

over hundreds of rounds back to back? or 5 here 10 there type samples that added up to hundreds?

im not trying to argue or say one way is better than another or one way produces better numbers but like i said in post #58 ive done this and a lot of other things and have shot out barrels testing and at the end of the day the lowest ESs i think ive ever seen over a 50+ round sample is around 15ish FPS...ive never seen a large sample taken in the single digits...im not saying it has not happened im just saying in the thousands of rounds ive shot over a chrony ive never seen it.
 
The difference in ES and SD for 10 rd groups shot same days over about 3 months in 3 different platforms. My last record shows 122, 136 and 140 rounds through each platform using both sizing methods. Mandrel sizing showed an average of about 25% better over just the bushing. Group size improved by about 15-20%. I had a set of 30 rounds of the same loading that had an SD of 6 and ES of 11- best I've seen on that size sample - and done with mandrel sizing.

Now, having a science background, I know the scientific method was not followed but the "anecdotal" evidence has convinced me. And, yes with much larger samples, I'm sure ES/SD would increase to a point but proportionally with both methods.

At this point, I have no inclination to delve into a more scientific approach to determine exact values. I've been happy with my results using the method previously discussed and it is strictly my observation. YMMV.
 
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The difference in ES and SD for 10 rd groups shot same days over about 3 months in 3 different platforms. My last record shows 122, 136 and 140 rounds through each platform using both sizing methods. Mandrel sizing showed an average of about 25% better over just the bushing. Group size improved by about 15-20%. I had a set of 30 rounds of the same loading that had an SD of 6 and ES of 11- best I've seen on that size sample - and done with mandrel sizing.

Now, having a science background, I know the scientific method was not followed but the "anecdotal" evidence has convinced me. And, yes with much larger samples, I'm sure ES/SD would increase to a point but proportionally with both methods.

At this point, I have no inclination to delve into a more scientific approach to determine exact values. I've been happy with my results using the method previously discussed and it is strictly my observation. YMMV.

interesting that your groups improved that much...i guess i may have to revisit this again...thanks.
 

Well then.
I was just about to buy a 21st century or K&M Arbor Pressure with force gauge, and then I had to go watch the video in that page. Now I want a fully instrumented and automated bullet seater press like the one in the video!! DAMN YOU!! LOL!
 
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