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Scope Base Help

TXRifleman

Private
Minuteman
Sep 18, 2019
5
3
Plano, TX
I have a Savage Model 11 that I am currently using the factory bases on. My problem is with my zero I only have 4.8 MRADs of elevation and I need at least 10.7 for 1000 yds. The only scope bases I can find are 20 MOA which would give me approximately 5.8 MRADs of additional elevation, bringing me up to 10.6 MRADs. I can then shim 6 thousands with a soda can to gain an additional 6 MOA, about 1.7 MRADs for a total of 12.3 MRADs of elevation.

Are all my assumptions here right? Will this in fact get me to where I want? I was also planning on bedding the rail to the action, but am not quite sure how to go about it if I shim, any ideas? Do I put the shim in the bedding compound?

Thanks
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What scope?

Also, 140 grain, Im assuming this is a 6.5 creed? If so it seems like you ought to be getting another 150-200 fps.
Im showing a 6.5 creed 140 eld out of a RPR at 2750 fps is 8.1 mils to 1k yards. At 2562 fps it would be 9.6.
So thats showing youre about a mil off of where I would expect. Unless you have a short ass barrel?


Personally, I wouldnt shim it. I would figure out why youre slow and dragging too much.
Bed a one piece 20moa scope base, jb weld under the rear while the front is only screwed tight enough to hold it in place while drying/curing, you dont want the scope base to be under tension when you bed it otherwise you will build in its bentyness.

If you do shim it I would test it before bedding it and then probably bed over top of it. But thats not something I would do, its too easy to figure out the real problem to just paint over it.


Could be the barrel is bent up which is robbing you of what travel you might otherwise have.
 
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DBtac is 19 mils total travel total, thats 9.5 up and 9.5 down. If you only have 4.8 up then youre bent/not straight somewhere.

Do you have the full 14.2 mils of down travel below your zero?
 
If you want to bed in some slope, add shims to the rear, bed the front with very light tension on the screws, just barely tight, then after it sets, take it off, remove the shims and then bed the rear with almost no tension on the rear screw and enough tension on the front to keep it flush in the front bedding.
 
If you want to bed in some slope, add shims to the rear, bed the front with very light tension on the screws, just barely tight, then after it sets, take it off, remove the shims and then bed the rear with almost no tension on the rear screw and enough tension on the front to keep it flush in the front bedding.
That's a much better idea than what I had. I think I'm going to start with just the scope base and see if I still need to shim. After I test it I will either shim and bed, or just bed it as it is.