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Gunsmithing TL3 barrel insrall
- Thread starter BenjaminMartin6.5
- Start date
Yep,On my tl3 Ive been doing my creedmoors @ 72 lb/ft and my 6.5PRC @ 92 lb/ft with regular anti seize.
Torque as above, but I like the nickel based anti-seize, personally. It plays nicely with all common firearms metals at elevated temperatures, unlike aluminum (galls stainless, generally reacts poorly with steel), copper (induces heat cracking in stainless), or graphite (corrodes the fuck out of aluminum threads when any load is applied) based. If you’re a hobbyist the cost difference is negligible over the life of the product.
Probably won’t hurt, just be careful on long strings of fire.
I just get this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-77134-Nickel-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B007NJOEAI
What are you guys putting on the face of the action? Would anti-seize work just as well here? Grease?
I don’t intentionally put anything there, some may bleed over from the threads...haven’t had any issues with the ~8 barrels installed on my two TL3’s.
You should keep the face of the action and shoulder of the barrel clean. This is the surface interface that determines chamber/ action alignment. At most, wipe it with a very light gun oil.
What action wrench and barrel vise is recommended? Bighorn action wrench? I've seen the Viper model vise pop up a few times. I'll be installing a proof carbon barrel and I know you don't want to clamp on the carbon section. Will the viper dimensions work with only clamping the steel portion of the barrel?
Any grease will do. I've installed hundreds of barrels on my 3 TL3's and 1 Origin. Just dont run it dry. Viper and SAC vises will both install barrels on a TL3 with ease.
Ok, it looks like the viper top clamping section is 3"x3" so it will make contact with the carbon. I suppose I could just torque the two closest bolts to the breech. What are you all doing to install proof carbons?
Sorry for thread drift, I'll start a new thread if necessary.
Get some thin aluminum shim stock (~0.005” or thinner, which will deform just fine) and wrap it slightly less than once around the steel part of the barrel before you put it in the wrench. Center the shim as much as you can in the wrench, too.
When I did my proof (in my viper) I just somewhat focused more on the breech end bolts while tightening and then once i had all 4 snugged tight i torqued them all down pretty good..... I DID use a toilet paper roll and it made no marks at all on the barrel on the carbon or steel.
Nice. I was just concerned about delaminating the carbon from the steel. I wonder if you can get to 100 ft lbs while just using the 2 bolts closest to the breach. Also maybe I’m just being paranoid....never owned a proof carbon before...
I dont know if id try "just" the rear nuts period... It'll be fine just do what i described with main focus being on rear ones and use something(toilet paper roll) to grip it with the action as close as possible (and yes I left the rail on) and torque it down.
