sizing new brass open for discussion
- Thread starter tickridge
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Don't know to what extent you go for your reloading, but getting them fire formed should be done before other tuning procedures as it's kinda a waist of time if too much is done on NEW brass. Just loading them to with a good consistent load, they should do OK and give you some good trigger time. The only thing I do to new Lapua brass is trim length as I can do that quickly and with little effort with a Tri-Way trimmer and I do that after every firing anyway.
As others have said, don’t put a lot of though into it as fired brass is more important. I do a bit more to my brass as I have the 21st century motorized neck turning lathe. I bought it for making brass for some cartridges. Since I have it and it’s so fast, I uniform all necks now.
Most just trim/chamfer and run a mandrel through new brass. That’s all I would do if I didn’t have this lathe.
Most just trim/chamfer and run a mandrel through new brass. That’s all I would do if I didn’t have this lathe.
I FL size new stuff before I load it. I do it just because UPS might have air dopped that shit from like 5,000 feet and dinged the necks for me. So that's the only reason. Then I chamfered and debur and send it
The only thing I do with new brass is run it over a neck mandrel to uniform the necks and get consistent neck tension, trim & chamfer. I’ve developed many loads on new brass that doesn’t change once the brass is fire formed and if it by chance did it was maybe a .10 grain difference. Just load it and shoot i it.
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I resize all new brass. The die probably will not touch the shoulder but it straightens out any dings in the case mouth. I also trim it and work on the primer pockets. This has been argued before but its what I do. It may not help but it seldom hurts.
I neck size new brass and load it. Have not had enough difference between new and once fired to matter.
This. There is no reason to size new Lapua brass. Def need to mandrel the necks though to reduce and uniform neck tension.
I almost never sixze my virgin brass for bolt guns I always fire form and then neck size going forward its easiest on the brass and best for accuracy. For my AR I full length size after every firing but as long as your virgin brass is from a great source you almost always good. I will put a piece in the chamber and if it fits good i forgo the virgin brass sizing
I agree that FL with a small bump is overall more consistent, I still only neck size for bolt guns as long as there is no sticky bolt lift after firing. The reason is I can go from fired to ready to load in almost no time with neck sizing. FL sizing requires lube which requires removing the lube which means at least 2 extra steps for every piece of brass. If I can get single digit SDs and .3-.4 groups with neck sizing and skip at least 2 steps I’m in. Yes it eventually grows and I have to FL but I typically get 3-4 firings before doing it. On 300 pieces of brass that’s allowing me to skip lubing and removing lube from 900-1200 cases. If I were chasing .1s maybe it would be worth it but for what I’m doing speed and simplicity wins over .002 of shoulder consistency.
Neck sizing to save time when not striving to get everything you can out of it is fine.
Was just posting that video because someone regurgitated the old wives tail that neck sizing is easier on brass and better for accuracy. Neither of which is true.
Was just posting that video because someone regurgitated the old wives tail that neck sizing is easier on brass and better for accuracy. Neither of which is true.
