Anyone have a Sauer 100 Pantera or Fieldshoot?

redneckbmxer24

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  • Jan 15, 2005
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    Thinking about buying one of these in 6.5PRC, probably leaning towards the Pantera since they're threaded and a hair lighter. Also considering 300WM in the Pantera.

    Some questions.

    1. Hows the action? Is the bolt lift smooth? Any binding or feeding issues? Positive feeding and extraction? Anything negative you'd point out?

    2. If you have a 6.5PRC or even 6.5 Creedmoor with the 8.6" twist per their specs, or a 300WM with the 1:11, how is it shooting and with what bullet? This is probably the greatest concern to me, not sure why they wouldn't use a 8 twist in the 6.5 and 10 in the .30. I'd like to be able to run the 127gr LRX in the 6.5 or the 200gr LRX in the 300 both of which call for 8 and 10 twist and are solid copper which generally requires a faster twist than the same length/weight lead core bullet. I think the 6.5PRC would run the 127gr fast enough to work but the 11 twist with the 200 is concerning.

    3. Hows the trigger for adjustability? Is it fully adjustable for sear, overtravel, and weight?

    4. Hows the stock? It looks like the grip may be a tick further from the trigger than your typical vertical grip stock. Does the cheek piece hardware lock up tight? No issue with it coming loose and dropping down? Is it KMW style? Is there enough meat on the side of the forend to install a left flush cup? Is the forend stiff? Any sort of bedding system? If not is there any issue with bolts loosening up in the cold?

    Overall how do you like the rifle and what do you really like about it, and what do you dislike or would change, if anything?

    Anyone in the Winchester, VA area with one that would be willing to trade trigger time on one? I've got more than a couple interesting rifles someone might want to play with.
     
    I don't have either of those rifles, but I did buy one of the Sauer 100 Classic XT's in 6.5 CM a year or so ago. Looks like the Pantera and Fieldshoot share the same action, and magazines. Bolt lift on mine is pretty slick, and I haven't experienced any binding or feeding issues, it is a 3 lug design so the bolt lift is a little heavier than say my SSG 3000, but not terrible by any means.
    I was thinking the barrel on mine was 1-8, but I went back and checked and it is 1-8.6 as well. I have not had any problems running 130gr. Prime, or Hornady 143gr. ELD-X ammunition, in fact it is one of the most accurate out of the box sporter barrels that I have owned. Very happy in that respect.
    The trigger has (at least on the 100 XT) an adjustment screw that is accessible w/o taking the action out of the stock, but it was pretty nice as it came from the factory, so I haven't really messed with it.
    Not exactly what you were looking for, but maybe it'll give you a bit of insight nonetheless.
     
    I was literally about to post something about this. I went to sportsman last night and fingered a sauer 100 in 6.5. It felt like a tikka but with a shorter throw?

    And then I checked out the 404 series on EO and realized how poor I am after an AI purchase this year lol
     
    They need to start actually making these guns. Or maybe they are and all of Europe is buying them before they can export to the States. I will admit that if I was over there I would be buying guns too.
     
    I don't have either of those rifles, but I did buy one of the Sauer 100 Classic XT's in 6.5 CM a year or so ago. Looks like the Pantera and Fieldshoot share the same action, and magazines. Bolt lift on mine is pretty slick, and I haven't experienced any binding or feeding issues, it is a 3 lug design so the bolt lift is a little heavier than say my SSG 3000, but not terrible by any means.
    I was thinking the barrel on mine was 1-8, but I went back and checked and it is 1-8.6 as well. I have not had any problems running 130gr. Prime, or Hornady 143gr. ELD-X ammunition, in fact it is one of the most accurate out of the box sporter barrels that I have owned. Very happy in that respect.
    The trigger has (at least on the 100 XT) an adjustment screw that is accessible w/o taking the action out of the stock, but it was pretty nice as it came from the factory, so I haven't really messed with it.
    Not exactly what you were looking for, but maybe it'll give you a bit of insight nonetheless.

    Thanks, that's all great info. If the 6.5 creed is stabilizing 140 class bullets then no reason the 6.5 PRC shouldn't with more velocity. Another question though, what altitude are you at and what temperatures have you shot the heavier stuff in? Any cold weather shooting? If so, did accuracy remain the same?
     
    Thanks, that's all great info. If the 6.5 creed is stabilizing 140 class bullets then no reason the 6.5 PRC shouldn't with more velocity. Another question though, what altitude are you at and what temperatures have you shot the heavier stuff in? Any cold weather shooting? If so, did accuracy remain the same?

    I shot my Sauer 100 Ceratech in 6.5 PRC last weekend for the first time. Time restricted me to the 100 range doing barrel break in plus a few more rounds. Ammunition was Hornady 147 ELDM and 143 ELDM. Both shot very well - in the 1/2" group range. Hopefully I'll be able to stretch it out very soon.
     
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    Realized there's no pics in the thread so here's one.
     
    i agree, ordering the area 419 base for it and still trying to decide what ammo I want to try.

    Just a heads up; have you verified that the Area 419 rail will work with Sauer S100s?

    Area 419's improved rail has a integral/machined in lug that is designed to fit Rem 700s. Not sure how fitment will be for the Sauer.
     
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    Just a heads up; have you verified that the Area 419 rail will work with Sauer S100s?

    Area 419's improved rail has a integral/machined in lug that is designed to fit Rem 700s. Not sure how fitment will be for the Sauer.
    You are 100% correct, I ended up returning the 419 rail and NF ultralite rings I had. Just ordered Leupold 34m dovetail rings and mounts. Wish I would have paid attention to that factor before ordering!
     
    I just bought a Pantera in 6.5 Creedmoor, 20" barrel. Unfortunately I'm a beginner and don't have the experience to weigh in! I paid someone to mount the scope and they botched it (not even close to level), so I am waiting on some tools to redo their work (before I shoot). I guess I will have to become a gunsmith now, to get my money out of the tools. I have a 2.4-12x50 Swarovski Z5 mounted on the Hexalock rings and a Smith Enterprises Vortex Flash Hider. I bought a Magnetospeed and four factory loads to test based on ballistic projections. (Norma Swift Scirocco II, Hornady Interlock, Winchester Accubond, Federal Premium Berger).

    The trigger has almost no play as it comes, not sure if that is the norm these days or not, barely moves! The pull weight can be adjusted with a little Allen wrench easily. Don't know about sear or overtravel, too advanced!

    I think you have enough meat in the fore end for a side stud. Can anyone tell me why they put those on the bottom? My sling (VTAC) calls for a stud on the side fore end and top of the stock for the rear. It doesn't seem to hang well at all with the studs on the bottom. I was looking at the buttstock adapter from Viking, but I don't think it will fit with the unusual shape of the stock.
     
    I just bought a Pantera in 6.5 Creedmoor, 20" barrel. Unfortunately I'm a beginner and don't have the experience to weigh in! I paid someone to mount the scope and they botched it (not even close to level), so I am waiting on some tools to redo their work (before I shoot). I guess I will have to become a gunsmith now, to get my money out of the tools. I have a 2.4-12x50 Swarovski Z5 mounted on the Hexalock rings and a Smith Enterprises Vortex Flash Hider. I bought a Magnetospeed and four factory loads to test based on ballistic projections. (Norma Swift Scirocco II, Hornady Interlock, Winchester Accubond, Federal Premium Berger).

    The trigger has almost no play as it comes, not sure if that is the norm these days or not, barely moves! The pull weight can be adjusted with a little Allen wrench easily. Don't know about sear or overtravel, too advanced!

    I think you have enough meat in the fore end for a side stud. Can anyone tell me why they put those on the bottom? My sling (VTAC) calls for a stud on the side fore end and top of the stock for the rear. It doesn't seem to hang well at all with the studs on the bottom. I was looking at the buttstock adapter from Viking, but I don't think it will fit with the unusual shape of the stock.

    You should always set up your own scope. Need to be able to set it to your body/eye relief. Unless you are present while it's being mounted, it's probably not set correctly. So it's a good thing that you are going to mount it yourself.

    One reason sling studs are on the bottom, now a days, is for bipod use.
     
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    You should always set up your own scope. Need to be able to set it to your body/eye relief. Unless you are present while it's being mounted, it's probably not set correctly. So it's a good thing that you are going to mount it yourself.

    One reason sling studs are on the bottom, now a days, is for bipod use.

    Thanks for your reply. For the gunsmith, I drew a mark on the stock with a Sharpie on where I expected my eye to land and provided the eye relief of the scope - 3.74". I had asked him to situate the scope at that distance from the mark. Do you know if that 3.74" given as the scope's eye relief is a maximal or optimal distance, as it is currently a little under that distance and there is clearance for the scope to go forward.

    I wasn't really planning on the bipod, as I wanted this to be a lightweight, mountain rifle, (but it still isn't that light).

    I contacted Mike Lucas about a bore guide, but he wants to know if my bolt is a rebated style. I don't know what that means either, lots to learn! I should probably start my own thread with all of my questions, not trying to hijack!

    If OP wants to come down to Outer Banks to check out my rifle, let me know. I expect you moved on since post is pretty old.