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First Precision Rifle suggestion, from these five?

river251

Private
Minuteman
Mar 27, 2019
40
9
I'm wanting to buy a first PRS or F-Class rifle, that I can shoot stock without a lot of mods. I want to get my feet wet, not worried about winning for now.

I don't want an aluminum chassis right now. Sako, Christensen Arms, MasterPiece Arms, or Randy's Custom Rifles are out of my budget.

I want to stay under $1500. I want to shoot it stock, not get into expensive or time-consuming mods, for now. I'm sure that all of these are more accurate than I will be starting out, but I want something I can grow into for a few years, and get better with, and I want the most potential possible for accuracy when I'm experienced, from my first rifle, so I won't feel the need to replace it quickly.

Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24" stainless
Ruger American Predator 6.5 Creedmoor 22" AI Pattern Magazine
Savage 110 Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor 24" 10 Round
Remington 700 Magpul 6.5 Creedmoor
CZ 527 American Synthetic Suppressor 6.5 Grendel

Any opinions welcome.

Thank you.

Jim
 
$1500 for rifle and scope or just rifle? I like to recommend the bergara hmrs because they are usually quite accurate out of the box and they will take aftermarket rem 700 triggers and stocks. This allows you to upgrade incrementally then switch whatever stock and trigger you put in it to a custom build. I use a Savage FCPSR in 6.5 (older version of the tactical without AICS mag compatibility), and it works pretty decent and is certainly more capable than I am. Aftermarket support for savages isn’t nearly as good as rem700 footprints though.
 
id recommend an HMR. They have outstanding accuracy for the money and can be found under a $1K
 
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id recommend an HMR. They have outstanding accuracy for the money and can be found under a $1K

You beat me to it by one minute! Though with his budget, I'd spend the extra for the Pro.
 
Tikka CTR or Varmint (a bit heavier barrel, standard bottom plastic). Tikka has a medium sized action so you can rebarrel to 284 Shehane when the bug bites. Varmint has regular bottom plastic so just swap with a 30-06 magazine and good to go. CTR mags only come in short action if memory serves.
 
Tikka CTR or Varmint (a bit heavier barrel, standard bottom plastic). Tikka has a medium sized action so you can rebarrel to 284 Shehane when the bug bites. Varmint has regular bottom plastic so just swap with a 30-06 magazine and good to go. CTR mags only come in short action if memory serves.
yep just short
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

It seems like the Bagara and Tikka are rising to the top so far......

That Sako A7 is sold out at Sportsman's unless I want to drive 2700 miles to Arkansas for the 7mm, which would be fine.
 
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Potential issue with the Begara is the coned bolt, which means no prefit barrels. Hopefully this changes, but as of now, you'd be stuck having a smith do the rebarrel. Tikka has many companies doing prefits, often without barrel nuts since the actions are so nice.
 
I am doing a first build, no not high jacking this thread but I am allocating 2k to glass and rifle, with your price set at 1500 I would go with the fallowing

Howa mini action 600

KRG Bravo chassis 350
Optic ( your personal flaover) $$$$$
Trigger (timney) 165$ if you wanted to replace the howa trigger. Your still way under 1500


Just my 1 penny since I am new here and new to PRS as well. This was my first option but I am picky and cant get the Bravo chassis in the green for howa action, so going with a remington 700 clone build.
 
tikka ctr
krg bravo chassis

idk why you even have 4 other options on that list

His bugget is 1500, you do the Tikka while yes I will agree is very nice is still 1k just for the rifle then add the bravo that pushes it to 1.4k no room for optic. Not knocking what your saying as I looked at that option and was going to go with that option till I seen that Mack Brothers is release the EVO SS action and the cost of that, then forget the Tikka I am going to build off that action and the bravo chassis, but my build is over 1500, much closer to 2k for everything.
 
I just discovered the Tikka UPR. Similar price to the CTR. Will need to look into the differences. Tikka and Begara are definitely on my mind.

Only bad thing is I won't be able to execute on this for a while, but it gives me time to be sure. This thread has been a tremendous help. The way these two have been the overwhelming favorites has been informative to say the least.
 
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His bugget is 1500, you do the Tikka while yes I will agree is very nice is still 1k just for the rifle then add the bravo that pushes it to 1.4k no room for optic. Not knocking what your saying as I looked at that option and was going to go with that option till I seen that Mack Brothers is release the EVO SS action and the cost of that, then forget the Tikka I am going to build off that action and the bravo chassis, but my build is over 1500, much closer to 2k for everything.
he doesn't say that's with optic

if optic is included in that budget he should wait a year

mack bros is cool at $550, but then $150 for trigger and $500 min for barrel and $350 for a bravo. assuming profits and rail/lug included

UPR is cool....but it's still a shit stock
 
I just discovered the Tikka UPR. Similar price to the CTR. Will need to look into the differences. Tikka and Begara are definitely on my mind.

Only bad thing is I won't be able to execute on this for a while, but it gives me time to be sure. This thread has been a tremendous help. The way these two have been the overwhelming favorites has been informative to say the least.
i called and from my understanding none are in stock and not sure when they will be in stock they told me May before Covid-19 took place. Tikka is shutdown from my understanding.
 
Hi guys, sorry, my budget does not include glass. I bought glass already but may need to upgrade it, I just asked this in the scopes forum (Vortex Diamondback Tacitcal 4-16x44 FFP MRAD).
Anyway, I'm just asking on the rifle right now. Your help much appreciated.
These custom builds are out of my league and I'm not ready enough to justify them even if I could afford one. And too many choices. Don't have much time to tinker myself, my day job keeps me happily swamped. Just want a super accurate rifle in stock form to play and grow with when I get time to go out.

Thanks.
 
You can't go wrong with the HMR or Tikka CTR in 6.5 creed then for around $1000.
 
Hi guys, sorry, my budget does not include glass. I bought glass already but may need to upgrade it, I just asked this in the scopes forum (Vortex Diamondback Tacitcal 4-16x44 FFP MRAD).
Anyway, I'm just asking on the rifle right now. Your help much appreciated.
These custom builds are out of my league and I'm not ready enough to justify them even if I could afford one. And too many choices. Don't have much time to tinker myself, my day job keeps me happily swamped. Just want a super accurate rifle in stock form to play and grow with when I get time to go out.

Thanks.


There is no such thing as super accurate stock rifle, the chassis alone allows flex, hits the barrel ect. There all nice rifles but from your underlined statement in your first post and this last one, you wont get that out of a stock rifle.

You want to be able to grow but not want to get into an expensive rifle, that is fine, but the weekness on everyone including the UPR is the chassis, the bravo chassis has a metal rail that the action bolts to, wont allow the chassis to flex and hit or push on the barrel. Its adjustable just like the UPR but later on you can grow into it even more due to the M lock setup ect.

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis/

There is no super accurate rifle from the factory, if there was one then there would be no aftermarket for rifles. The UPR is crap compared to the Bravo chassis, so if you want an accurate rifle for 1500 then here is what I am building. The barrels dont take long to put on either so there isnt any tinkering around. Plus even a stock rifle wont be perfect from the factory and will need adjusting, plus your action and barrel wont be TRUED from the factory.

MY build

KRG bravo chassis 350$
Mack Brothers Evo SS ( possible release date june ish) 575 to 600$
Elf 700 trigger 300$
Remage Barrel plus lug 400$
muzzle break 100$
Vortex Diamondback Tactical 399
anything else as tripod do not have price yet.

pricing may fluctuate a bit.

If I am wrong on anything please correct me as I will admit, never built a bolt action rifle and new to this. This is all from me gathering info from here and other sources as well as reviews ect.

Its your money and this is just my 1 cent worth of months of looking into things and reading on here, I did my build my self, havent asked for advice on here and just went with what I read and what I want. If your more confortable with a stock rifle then that is fine and understandable. Just giving you my opinion for the 1500 you have to spend and the BEST you can get for your money.
 
A Tikka is, IMHO, the best roll of the dice for a reasonably-priced factory rifle. Common sense: the plastic stock has a somewhat flexible forend - rest the rifle closer to the action and/or dremel out the plasti-stock for more clearance. That, plus 5 mins and 5 bucks for a trigger spring is all that's needed. My varmint in 223 shot factory Fiocchi 77 SMK's under 1/2"@ 200 yards. Many people's Tikka's shoot just as well, especially in 6.5.

Cost factor - if you're shooting 50-100 rounds/wk of match 6.5, you're spending $3-5K/yr just feeding your rifle, plus an extra barrel or 2. So, try to look forward to what other cartridges might strike your fancy, and whether or not the action/trigger/stock will meet your req's down the line. Another 500-1000 bucks on the rifle shouldn't matter if it means getting the action/trigger/stock combo right the first time.

The Tikka trigger with a spring, IMHO, is almost as good as the best aftermarket triggers for the Rem700. I prefer the Triggertech, but it's only for feel, rather than a necessity for performance, ex. I can shoot my Savage just as well as my Triggertech'd Rem. The Tikka stock, as long as you stick with a short action, is easily replaced with the KRG Bravo. But if you want to run a longer cartridge or OAL, you will need to stick with the Varmint model stock, or buy something expensive, or be single loading. All considerations for the future.

For today, however, I don't think there is anything close to the cost of a Tikka that will shoot as well, nor does anything else in the price range have the flexibility with regard to action length for the future. Finally, if you don't intend on shooting long strings and heating the barrel, just buy a Lite for 450 bux, and save your money for the replacement barrel. It will get you shooting, and you'll know what you want to change once you've been using it.
 
I'm wanting to buy a first PRS or F-Class rifle, that I can shoot stock without a lot of mods. I want to get my feet wet, not worried about winning for now.

I don't want an aluminum chassis right now. Sako, Christensen Arms, MasterPiece Arms, or Randy's Custom Rifles are out of my budget.

I want to stay under $1500. I want to shoot it stock, not get into expensive or time-consuming mods, for now. I'm sure that all of these are more accurate than I will be starting out, but I want something I can grow into for a few years, and get better with, and I want the most potential possible for accuracy when I'm experienced, from my first rifle, so I won't feel the need to replace it quickly.

Tikka T3x CTR 6.5 Creedmoor 24" stainless
Ruger American Predator 6.5 Creedmoor 22" AI Pattern Magazine
Savage 110 Tactical 6.5 Creedmoor 24" 10 Round
Remington 700 Magpul 6.5 Creedmoor
CZ 527 American Synthetic Suppressor 6.5 Grendel

Any opinions welcome.

Thank you.

Jim

I just got the Tikka Tac A1 for $1499 at GunProDeals...$300 cheaper than I found it anywhere else
 
A Tikka is, IMHO, the best roll of the dice for a reasonably-priced factory rifle. Common sense: the plastic stock has a somewhat flexible forend - rest the rifle closer to the action and/or dremel out the plasti-stock for more clearance. That, plus 5 mins and 5 bucks for a trigger spring is all that's needed. My varmint in 223 shot factory Fiocchi 77 SMK's under 1/2"@ 200 yards. Many people's Tikka's shoot just as well, especially in 6.5.

Cost factor - if you're shooting 50-100 rounds/wk of match 6.5, you're spending $3-5K/yr just feeding your rifle, plus an extra barrel or 2. So, try to look forward to what other cartridges might strike your fancy, and whether or not the action/trigger/stock will meet your req's down the line. Another 500-1000 bucks on the rifle shouldn't matter if it means getting the action/trigger/stock combo right the first time.

The Tikka trigger with a spring, IMHO, is almost as good as the best aftermarket triggers for the Rem700. I prefer the Triggertech, but it's only for feel, rather than a necessity for performance, ex. I can shoot my Savage just as well as my Triggertech'd Rem. The Tikka stock, as long as you stick with a short action, is easily replaced with the KRG Bravo. But if you want to run a longer cartridge or OAL, you will need to stick with the Varmint model stock, or buy something expensive, or be single loading. All considerations for the future.

For today, however, I don't think there is anything close to the cost of a Tikka that will shoot as well, nor does anything else in the price range have the flexibility with regard to action length for the future. Finally, if you don't intend on shooting long strings and heating the barrel, just buy a Lite for 450 bux, and save your money for the replacement barrel. It will get you shooting, and you'll know what you want to change once you've been using it.


Can you put a bravo chassis on a lite?
 
There is no such thing as super accurate stock rifle, the chassis alone allows flex, hits the barrel ect. There all nice rifles but from your underlined statement in your first post and this last one, you wont get that out of a stock rifle.

You want to be able to grow but not want to get into an expensive rifle, that is fine, but the weekness on everyone including the UPR is the chassis, the bravo chassis has a metal rail that the action bolts to, wont allow the chassis to flex and hit or push on the barrel. Its adjustable just like the UPR but later on you can grow into it even more due to the M lock setup ect.

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis/

There is no super accurate rifle from the factory, if there was one then there would be no aftermarket for rifles. The UPR is crap compared to the Bravo chassis, so if you want an accurate rifle for 1500 then here is what I am building. The barrels dont take long to put on either so there isnt any tinkering around. Plus even a stock rifle wont be perfect from the factory and will need adjusting, plus your action and barrel wont be TRUED from the factory.

MY build

KRG bravo chassis 350$
Mack Brothers Evo SS ( possible release date june ish) 575 to 600$
Elf 700 trigger 300$
Remage Barrel plus lug 400$
muzzle break 100$
Vortex Diamondback Tactical 399
anything else as tripod do not have price yet.

pricing may fluctuate a bit.

If I am wrong on anything please correct me as I will admit, never built a bolt action rifle and new to this. This is all from me gathering info from here and other sources as well as reviews ect.

Its your money and this is just my 1 cent worth of months of looking into things and reading on here, I did my build my self, havent asked for advice on here and just went with what I read and what I want. If your more confortable with a stock rifle then that is fine and understandable. Just giving you my opinion for the 1500 you have to spend and the BEST you can get for your money.
Hey that stock looks really nice. It's not an aluminum thing with holes in it. You are at 1650 without the scope which I already have. Interesting thinking. But, respectfully, why do you think it will be more accurate than a Tikka t3x CTR? Serious question.
 
Hey that stock looks really nice. It's not an aluminum thing with holes in it. You are at 1650 without the scope which I already have. Interesting thinking. But, respectfully, why do you think it will be more accurate than a Tikka t3x CTR? Serious question.

Before you read this, I am not saying you cant make PRS long range shots with a tikka or a howa or remington with a factory stock and hit targets, I am saying shooter being equal there going to get more consistent shots on target. I am quoting you from your first post "I want the most potential possible for accuracy when I'm experienced, from my first rifle, so I won't feel the need to replace it quickly". The bravo chassis will get you this and past this since you can upgrade it to make it even better as you progress. As they say on here "Buy once, cry once" so the best bang for your money not over your price is the bravo chassis IMHO. Anyways I have listed a few reasons why its more accurate along with links to videos explaining what I am talking about as well as My reasons for every thing I want to use in my build. Those reasons are related to accuracy as well.

To answer your question, there are a lot of reason why the factory stocks are junk compared to the KRG Bravo and any other after market stock. The KRG has an aluminum rail that runs from above the trigger to the end of the stock (black piece on the green or tan stock in pictures). The factory stocks are all plastic with metal lugs mounted in them. The factory stock will flex when you put load on it with a bi-pod, while the KRG is very very minimal to no flex at all. Accuracy is getting a consistent shot every time, if your rifle is flexing differently every time you load up the bi-pods then recoil will be different ect. There is also a good chance that the factory stock will touch and push on the barrel. The barrel needs to free float from the action to the end of the stock. There is a harmonic sound wave that travels down the barrel. If that is messed with that can throw a longer shot off alone or give you erratic bullet patterns . At long ranges millimeters turn into inches and feet. meaning you can be off center by 3mm at 100 yards but miss by inches or feet at 800 yards. Here is a video under 10 minutes that explains harmonics.



You can add stuff later on as you need it, to help with your accuracy in positions you will be shooting in PRS matches, there are all kinds of positions they have you shooting in, sitting, kneeling, prone, off barricades, threw holes ect ect. With the upgrades you get a better position on the gun and the buttstock with fully adjustable ones like I have linked bellow. lastly if all these did not help with accuracy then there would be no aftermarket chassis since the factory stocks would be good enough and the pros wouldnt be using them. Even the KRG has a fully adjustable shoulder rest you can add to it later on if you feel you need it. The more expensive chassis are all aluminum, foldable buttstocks ( you can get an upgrade for the bravo if you wanted, linked below.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/tool-less-pad/

That stock is meant to be upgraded, you can also later on order this then it will be a 1500 stock.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/trg-stock/.

Short video from Brownells on the bravo chassis if you want, less then 3 minutes long. Shows the aluminum rail nicely.


Even though this video is about the sniper hide rifle, it applies to all after market chassis to include the bravo, but the bravo just doesnt have as many options out of the box. My last reason it makes you more accurate of a shooter.


The rest if you want to read it is why I also choose not to buy a rifle and choose what I chose.

Trued or bluprinted actions, read up on it and how it affects the barrel ect. That is why I am going with an aftermarket action vs a tikka or Howa, i dont want to buy a tikka at 1k then later on spend anywhere from 150 to 250ish to have my action trued later on. Then your rifle is down for a week or so depending on if gunsmith is local or you send it out. Anyways I digress, the barrel from factory rifles do not sit straight off the actions, some may but a lot dont, its a crap shoot when you buy a stock rifle. That affects how the bullet loads and travels down the barrel and harmonics. This under 10 minute video explains this as well and shows you how far off it can be from the factory. This is with all rifles from factory to include Howa, Tikka, Remington ect ect.



Trigger and trigger squeeze can affect your shot as well. With the ELF 700 I can adjust the trigger down to around 2 ounces all the way up to 5 pounds, again if you pull on the trigger and its not light enough then you can pull the barrel left or right and throw your shots off. Soo I am opting to go with the trigger I have choosen to go with, plus with that trigger you get a curved or flat finger trigger. That trigger is also adjustable up and down so you can make the trigger fit you.
 
I guess I'm missing something. It looks like it cost $1900 and I don't understand how that saves me $450..........???

$1900 is a bit rich.


No he meant to say, save up 450 more and buy that rifle. While its a nice setup and might make my collection some day I am still sticking with my first initial build, due to my personal price tag of close to 2k on both rifle and optic.
 
If limited in funds, I would look for a used PST II scope and a CTR, maybe look at Whitaker Guns in KY. The Ruger American is a nice gun for the money. I would wait and get the Tikka for future changes.
 
tikka ctr
krg bravo chassis

idk why you even have 4 other options on that list

This! Down the road when you want to upgrade, it will be easy. KRG has so many accessories for the Bravo that for an entry level to advanced perspective, it’s hard to justify spending more... and I am a Manners fanboy.

As for the Tikka, you’ll have the option for shouldered prefit barrels when you want to switch calibers/burnout barrels. You won’t need to find a better trigger, either. I have two customs built off Tikka actions. The triggers are still factory, un-modified.

Buy with confidence.
 
Can you put a bravo chassis on a lite?

Yes, and the Tikka action does not need to be trued. That's why there are shouldered prefits made without barrel nuts, same as a Kelbly's or other high end custom. All the Tikka's are the same action. They have a bolt stop depending on cartridge length, which can be changed, and both their long and short action mags fit their stocks, except for the CTR and TacA1 - which are only short action. KRG Bravo is also only for short action in Tikka at this time. Suggest buying the Lite - super cheap, and if you don't like it, the used market for Tikka's is excellent. That's where the value is - otherwise, if spending 1500-2K, you get to all the production class offerings, like the MPA PMR, which I'd take in a heartbeat over the Tikka.
 
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Before you read this, I am not saying you cant make PRS long range shots with a tikka or a howa or remington with a factory stock and hit targets, I am saying shooter being equal there going to get more consistent shots on target. I am quoting you from your first post "I want the most potential possible for accuracy when I'm experienced, from my first rifle, so I won't feel the need to replace it quickly". The bravo chassis will get you this and past this since you can upgrade it to make it even better as you progress. As they say on here "Buy once, cry once" so the best bang for your money not over your price is the bravo chassis IMHO. Anyways I have listed a few reasons why its more accurate along with links to videos explaining what I am talking about as well as My reasons for every thing I want to use in my build. Those reasons are related to accuracy as well.

To answer your question, there are a lot of reason why the factory stocks are junk compared to the KRG Bravo and any other after market stock. The KRG has an aluminum rail that runs from above the trigger to the end of the stock (black piece on the green or tan stock in pictures). The factory stocks are all plastic with metal lugs mounted in them. The factory stock will flex when you put load on it with a bi-pod, while the KRG is very very minimal to no flex at all. Accuracy is getting a consistent shot every time, if your rifle is flexing differently every time you load up the bi-pods then recoil will be different ect. There is also a good chance that the factory stock will touch and push on the barrel. The barrel needs to free float from the action to the end of the stock. There is a harmonic sound wave that travels down the barrel. If that is messed with that can throw a longer shot off alone or give you erratic bullet patterns . At long ranges millimeters turn into inches and feet. meaning you can be off center by 3mm at 100 yards but miss by inches or feet at 800 yards. Here is a video under 10 minutes that explains harmonics.



You can add stuff later on as you need it, to help with your accuracy in positions you will be shooting in PRS matches, there are all kinds of positions they have you shooting in, sitting, kneeling, prone, off barricades, threw holes ect ect. With the upgrades you get a better position on the gun and the buttstock with fully adjustable ones like I have linked bellow. lastly if all these did not help with accuracy then there would be no aftermarket chassis since the factory stocks would be good enough and the pros wouldnt be using them. Even the KRG has a fully adjustable shoulder rest you can add to it later on if you feel you need it. The more expensive chassis are all aluminum, foldable buttstocks ( you can get an upgrade for the bravo if you wanted, linked below.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/tool-less-pad/

That stock is meant to be upgraded, you can also later on order this then it will be a 1500 stock.
https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/trg-stock/.

Short video from Brownells on the bravo chassis if you want, less then 3 minutes long. Shows the aluminum rail nicely.


Even though this video is about the sniper hide rifle, it applies to all after market chassis to include the bravo, but the bravo just doesnt have as many options out of the box. My last reason it makes you more accurate of a shooter.


The rest if you want to read it is why I also choose not to buy a rifle and choose what I chose.

Trued or bluprinted actions, read up on it and how it affects the barrel ect. That is why I am going with an aftermarket action vs a tikka or Howa, i dont want to buy a tikka at 1k then later on spend anywhere from 150 to 250ish to have my action trued later on. Then your rifle is down for a week or so depending on if gunsmith is local or you send it out. Anyways I digress, the barrel from factory rifles do not sit straight off the actions, some may but a lot dont, its a crap shoot when you buy a stock rifle. That affects how the bullet loads and travels down the barrel and harmonics. This under 10 minute video explains this as well and shows you how far off it can be from the factory. This is with all rifles from factory to include Howa, Tikka, Remington ect ect.



Trigger and trigger squeeze can affect your shot as well. With the ELF 700 I can adjust the trigger down to around 2 ounces all the way up to 5 pounds, again if you pull on the trigger and its not light enough then you can pull the barrel left or right and throw your shots off. Soo I am opting to go with the trigger I have choosen to go with, plus with that trigger you get a curved or flat finger trigger. That trigger is also adjustable up and down so you can make the trigger fit you.

Thank you Bolty, that is incredibly helpful and educational. I'd like to save those videos but it's not YouTube. Where did you find those?
In your earlier post you described the parts you are going to put together. What I don't understand is are they already blueprinted so the action and barrel aligned perfectly? If I understand correctly you're going to end up with a Howa barreled action. Is that going to be more accurate than a Tikka?
I greatly appreciate your help, very generous of you. Thank you.
 
The Tikka will certainly suit you well, but the one caveat is that any parts besides a scope, magazine, and muzzle brake are not transferrable to a fully custom gun. If you're going to do competitive shooting like PRS, you will likely realize very quickly that you want a full custom gun. I'd suggest the Bergara if you're going to compete since it can take rem 700 stocks and triggers which you can then transfer to a full custom gun. The barrels are a little more difficult to replace, but it's still possible to do and there will likely be prefits for them in the upcoming years given their current popularity. Also, the Bergaras are pretty solid out of the box. I've seen a lot of people using them at club level matches. If you don't imagine ever going full custom, the Tikka is probably the way to go.
 
Yes, and the Tikka action does not need to be trued. That's why there are shouldered prefits made without barrel nuts, same as a Kelbly's or other high end custom. All the Tikka's are the same action. They have a bolt stop depending on cartridge length, which can be changed, and both their long and short action mags fit their stocks, except for the CTR and TacA1 - which are only short action. KRG Bravo is also only for short action in Tikka at this time. Suggest buying the Lite - super cheap, and if you don't like it, the used market for Tikka's is excellent. That's where the value is - otherwise, if spending 1500-2K, you get to all the production class offerings, like the MPA PMR, which I'd take in a heartbeat over the Tikka.


Thanks Chickentoast. That's good news, just reinforces my desire to get the Tikka.
 
I would also suggest the Howa with Krg Bravo. I have shot a couple Howa rifles and they have all been accurate with smooth actions. The Bravo will be the best chassis/ action an the only one I don't think you would need to upgrade. For the money and in your budget I don't think it can be beat.