Gunsmithing Remage prefit take plunger out for headspace?

[Steel head]

Easy
I’ve even switched actions and couldn’t detect a headspace change with the same barrel.

 

[Schw15]

Easy
I’ve even switched actions and couldn’t detect a headspace change with the same barrel.

Oh nice. One reason to do this for me is try different calibers and switch back and fourth every now again so good to hear that.

 

[MakeSawdust]

If you take everything out of the bolt so you have good feel, I find I can set the headspace to within one thousandth using fired brass.

If you want to switch things around a lot, you can red loctite the barrel nut when you first install the barrel. From then on you can use it like a shouldered barrel to get consistent headspace. I have been doing this with a few Criterion Savage prefits on a TL3 for awhile now. If you want to remove the barrel nut from the barrel, a little heat will allow you to spin it off.

Edit to add: If you use loctite, grease the hell out of the action threads and try to keep all of the loctite off of the action.

 

[Schw15]

If you take everything out of the bolt so you have good feel, I find I can set the headspace to within one thousandth using fired brass.

If you want to switch things around a lot, you can red loctite the barrel nut when you first install the barrel. From then on you can use it like a shouldered barrel to get consistent headspace. I have been doing this with a few Criterion Savage prefits on a TL3 for awhile now. If you want to remove the barrel nut from the barrel, a little heat will allow you to spin it off.

Edit to add: If you use loctite, grease the hell out of the action threads and try to keep all of the loctite off of the action.

That is a good idea never thought of that. Makes it fast. So you just set headspace loosen nut back up add loctite tighten back up torque down and good to go

 

[MakeSawdust]

That is a good idea never thought of that. Makes it fast. So you just set headspace loosen nut back up add loctite tighten back up torque down and good to go

Basically, but you still will want to check and adjust everything before and after torquing the barrel nut the final time to make sure your headspace is where you want it. This is especially true if you are setting headspace to match your brass. Also, make sure you use loctite brand thread locker. I can never get the permatex junk they sell at a lot of auto parts stores to bond, but I have never had any problems with actual loctite.

 

[Schw15]

Basically, but you still will want to check and adjust everything before and after torquing the barrel nut the final time to make sure your headspace is where you want it. This is especially true if you are setting headspace to match your brass. Also, make sure you use loctite brand thread locker. I can never get the permatex junk they sell at a lot of auto parts stores to bond, but I have never had any problems with actual loctite.

Yeah set headspace toque it down and check it then loosen nut put loctite on threads where the nut will be and torque down. Then the nut stays in same spot so off and on is just screwing on and torquing down. Man that is slick and might be trying that. Yes the main brand is best i do agree.

 

[Schw15]

Basically, but you still will want to check and adjust everything before and after torquing the barrel nut the final time to make sure your headspace is where you want it. This is especially true if you are setting headspace to match your brass. Also, make sure you use loctite brand thread locker. I can never get the permatex junk they sell at a lot of auto parts stores to bond, but I have never had any problems with actual loctite.

Also are you still torquing down on the nut itself with the wrench and torque wrench

 

[MakeSawdust]

Also are you still torquing down on the nut itself with the wrench and torque wrench

Yes, I torque everything to 65 ft/lbs. I give the loctite 24 hrs to cure and then I break the barrel loose from the action and reinstall it like a shouldered barrel at 65 ft/lbs. That insures everything will be consistent when you start measuring for shoulder bump and distance to the lands.

 

[Schw15]

Yes, I torque everything to 65 ft/lbs. I give the loctite 24 hrs to cure and then I break the barrel loose from the action and reinstall it like a shouldered barrel at 65 ft/lbs. That insures everything will be consistent when you start measuring for shoulder bump and distance to the lands.

Man that is so slick thank you very much for the info. Im gonna def try this later. It shouldnt take much loctite? Do you cover all threads that the nut engages

 

[MakeSawdust]

Man that is so slick thank you very much for the info. Im gonna def try this later. It shouldnt take much loctite? Do you cover all threads that the nut engages

Turn the nut all the way into the barrel and put four big drops of loctite on it. Turn the nut halfway back to the action and clean off the excess then finish tightening the nut. That is how I do it. It doesn't take much loctite.

I did not dream this up on my own. I learned it from someone on Savage shooters forum a long time ago.

 

[Schw15]

Turn the nut all the way into the barrel and put four big drops of loctite on it. Turn the nut halfway back to the action and clean off the excess then finish tightening the nut. That is how I do it. It doesn't take much loctite.

I did not dream this up on my own. I learned it from someone on Savage shooters forum a long time ago.

Nice thank you very much. Well they are very handy these forms are pretty useful come up with some pretty cool things