Getting started with 338

[E-Tool]

It’s been 4 years since I stopped reloading, I’m planning to start loading again for 338LM, 300WM, and 308.

I stopped because I didn’t have the time or space.

What die set would you recommend?

I’m loading for an MRAD so I’m leaning towards a kit with shoulder resizer, neck resizer, and seater with micrometer dial.

Any sets you recommend or recommend staying away from? I used to use RCBS, then switched to hornady, I’m considering redding for this job.

 

[E-Tool]

bump, maybe I shoulda put this in the bear pit.

 

[ShootnFool8]

Redding type-s full length bushing die set. What I use for my 338. I bought the competition set then went to full length type s bushing. Works better for me. Everyone will have their opinion. Just find something that works for you.

 

[E-Tool]

Why full length vs shoulder?

My understanding is fire forming your brass makes better accuracy, was that not your experience?

 

[ShootnFool8]

From what I learned after so many firings, my brass was getting stuck in chamber. Researched, and found that I would have to full length resize brass every so often.
As for accuracy it didn't change one bit.

 

[E-Tool]

Fair enough, I’ll start with that one then, may pick up a should length later so I can do the full size every few firings.

I already picked up an annealing machine to extend the life and make the neck tension consistent.

Is the S bushing a neck sizer? I saw a redding kit that has 4 dies and a set with 3, I need to get a couple tools to check for case consistency.

 

[ShootnFool8]

Yes, it takes the same bushing that you would use in just the neck sizer.

 

[99106]

Full length type s. You can pick bushing to set your neck tension. At some point you will have to full length size anyway and you're not giving up any apprecialble accuracy full length sizing. You are however minimizing your chances of chambering a fat case as mentioned above. Neck or full you still have to shoulder bump.

 

[spife7980]

Type s just mean bushing. There are both neck sizing and full length sizing variants of the type s.
I would just get the full length die and treat the brass the same every time. You’re already annealing to do so, why would you not try to maintain consistency and the most basic dimension level? You don’t have to take it all the way back to saami spec, you’re much better off not. You want to size just enough to create a minimal clearance for reliability while still maintaining a close fit.

 

[Steel head]

In magnums I’ve found full length sizing the definite way to go.
With a bushing or without always push the shoulder back a bit and squeeze in the sides a bit.

Nobody runs magnums with a low enough pressure to get consistent results with neck sizing on magnums in my experience.

 

[TheBoctor]

In magnums I’ve found full length sizing the definite way to go.
With a bushing or without always push the shoulder back a bit and squeeze in the sides a bit.

Nobody runs magnums with a low enough pressure to get consistent results with neck sizing on magnums in my experience.

This is the truth. I run full legnth sizers and have to push my .338 AI's back at least .003" to get consistent easy chambering.

Also, annealing. Anneal anneal anneal. It will be your friend. That's a lot of brass you're working and you'd be surprised how much spring-back you get out of it.

 

[E-Tool]

I have a vertex annealer I’ve used before and seemed to worked well, but now that i’m aware of the Amp I feel like it may be F/S soon. Sounds like less set-up and testing, painting, and sacrificing of cases.