Suggestions for protecting a new chassis cerakote

You don’t say? Well how profound.... Nice humble brag BTW. How about this, don’t participate in a sport that requires you dragging your sacred cow across cinder blocks and railroad cross ties? It’s the very nature of the game. Sheesh. Good luck. Maybe there’s a league out there with all Nerf barricades.
I'm not bragging about anything. You're the one who brought up that I have a 3D printer, and some extra scopes and chassis, as if that makes me Mr. Moneybags who can afford to keep a cerakote company on retainer. I'm saying if I spend money on replacement cerakote every year, I'll have less money for other stuff. I was just asking for some suggestions about how to mitigate the damage to get the most out of my budget.
 
Is it a functional piece of kit, or a display piece?
Use it, and enjoy doing so.
If it's that much of a concern, slap some camo tape on it.
It's like those fucktards that only do a thousand klicks a year on their Harley's.
grrrrr.
My Tikka is a few weeks old, already been bush-bashed and assaulted.
Yet accuracy is still primo.
Enjoy it while you have it.
 
You’re not going to recoup your investment in ceracote. It is as likely as not that potential buyers won’t like the color, or object to it on some other grounds. Just like a house with all white/neutral interior walls is easier to sell than one with accent walls, any customization to your rifle limits the potential buyers pool. As an investment, leave it in factory condition and leave it in the back of the safe. As a shooter, coat it if that is your jam, and recoat it when the coating wears enough for you to care.

I was a bit concerned about the finish on my rifle right up until the timer went “beep” on the first stage of the first match I attended. I don’t intentionally bang shit around, and I have wrapped my scope to keep the worst of the bruising off of it, but the rifle gets positioned... efficiently. Not ceracote, but the anodizing has held up very well. There are a couple of bright spots, but the gun doesn’t look thrashed by any means.
 
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I do, I just want to minimize that. Also, if I sell it in the future, I'd like to be able to get as much out of it as possible.
i have sold over 100+ guns in my life......unless the gun is trashed.....or it is a fine exhibition firearm......an odd scratch or scuffed paint does not affect the value much at all.

fuck, same with spray paint....dont let gun shops or buyers try to sell you the lie that a spray painted gun is worth less.....i have never had ANY issues selling a spay painted gun for fair market value.

is an unpainted gun easier to sell.....slightly.....but if someone wants the gun, they are going to buy it, paint or not.

anyone knit picking all the small scratches on your gun, and trying to use that to talk down the price......just tell them to fuck off if they arent serious about buying it and walk away.....call their bluff, they will fold like wet news paper.

P.S. this is what a true gun looks like
IMG_20201106_165615_9.jpg

IMG_20201106_165557_7.jpg
 
Do you not use bags, such as a game changer or fortune cookie???
NRL22 allows a bipod and one support item (bag, barricade stop, etc). On a cinderblock, I've usually gone prone, with a rearbag and the rifle on the block. On a ladder, I use my MPA barricade stop to wedge the ladder step between the stop and the magwell (which puts a lot of wear on the magwell).
 
i have sold over 100+ guns in my life......unless the gun is trashed.....or it is a fine exhibition firearm......an odd scratch or scuffed paint does not affect the value much at all.

fuck, same with spray paint....dont let gun shops or buyers try to sell you the lie that a spray painted gun is worth less.....i have never had ANY issues selling a spay painted gun for fair market value.

is an unpainted gun easier to sell.....slightly.....but if someone wants the gun, they are going to buy it, paint or not.

anyone knit picking all the small scratches on your gun, and trying to use that to talk down the price......just tell them to fuck off if they arent serious about buying it and walk away.....call their bluff, they will fold like wet news paper.

P.S. this is what a true gun looks like
View attachment 7464762
View attachment 7464763

Looks like it either went though World War I or World War II or both.
 
This is like the guys that buy badass trucks with a lift and mud tires, and the only action it sees is the star bucks drive thru. Just run the rifle man or don’t buy a color you don’t wanna scuff up... i gotta get off the internet for the day now
 
NRL22 allows a bipod and one support item (bag, barricade stop, etc). On a cinderblock, I've usually gone prone, with a rearbag and the rifle on the block. On a ladder, I use my MPA barricade stop to wedge the ladder step between the stop and the magwell (which puts a lot of wear on the magwell).

why not use a bag as your support item instead of the barricade stop?
 
Unneeded protection. Like putting on a condom just to jerk off in a tube sock

Guns, trucks and girls are meant to get some dings, dents and scratches along the way. And if you don’t put them in someone else will

Personally I think the battle worn cerakote jobs look awesome. Probably what I would get and you won’t have to worry about wear if that bothers you

Like this image I stole off google
Or just use the gun and it will get to this eventually
457F0C12-C5F0-4BA6-8513-3FB3D4029CC4.jpeg
 
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im waiting to see if there is a Black Friday sale but I want that distressed blue BA comp.

I did also see Pieter with IMPACT shooting do a vid about getting a strip of nonslip tape (grip tape) for the edge of the scope it does suck scuffing up a NF scope on the first stage of the day
I love that chassis color as well. I will see phil from mpa this weekend and ask about a black friday sale. If there is the wifey gonna hit the roof. Lol. Actually she is pretty good about my weapon spending
 
Anti-skid tape that goes on steps, bumpers Etc. It's kind of a pain, but it'll work to protect.
That's a pretty good idea. Skateboard grip tape is pretty durable, thin, and stays on where you stick it. I ordered some scope wrap tape that I'm going to try on there when it arrives. Being soft rubber, I figured it would also help prevent sliding on barricades.
 
Shadow tech sells the pig skin barricade pads. That might be a good solution, but it looks like they only have black or brown. Cerakote is a good product but, like any coating, it does wear over time. Sounds like a Cerakote setup may go well with your other shop tools. You can turn out some good looking work with a jank setup if your technique is good.