Recent content by PhrogDriver

Not entirely sure, but I think it’s because you can independently zero two different reticles. So, for example, you could have one set for .300 Blackout subs and one set for supers.

You can also download free USGS topographic maps in PDF format from this site: USGS TNM 2.0 Viewer They're actually in a GeoPDF format, which is very useful. They have highly detailed imagery which you can toggle on/off. You can also toggle pretty much everything else (contour lines, roads...

Yep, totally agree! I don't normally see 3D movies since the effect is, at least for me, typically overdone by most directors, often to the point of annoyance. But I saw Gravity yesterday in IMAX 3D and it was absolutely worth it! Overall, it was extremely well done. Not counting the special...

Whatever you do, I would go with an 18" barrel if you're only shooting to 800 yards. They're noticeably easier to handle than a 20" barrel, and as long as it's decent quality you'll have no problem getting to 800 under most conditions with 175s. My 18" Bartlein stays supersonic past 900 on a...

You could try these guys: Custom Foam Inserts for Pelican Cases I haven't used them myself, but I've heard good things.

Generally speaking, MIL is easier, mostly because most reticles are MIL based. The math is also a bit easier, since a MIL subtends 1/1000 of the distance. In other words, 1 MIL at 1000 yards is 1 yard, 1 MIL at 1000 meters is 1 meter, 1 MIL at 1000 "anything" is 1 "anything." Things get even...

Actually, I think the Palma range you're referring to is the Pala range located on the Pala Indian reservation. Great range, but the schedule can be tricky. Here's the website: ncsapala.com North County Shootist Association NCSA

Wow...I'm really sorry. I just re-read your question and my response, and I guess I was a bit hasty. With an EREK knob, you set the zero stop by holding the knob and rotating the allen key ccw until it stops. Then, you bottom the knob. From here, you hold the knob, and use the allen key to...

1: Yes. That will move the entire erector so you'll get max elevation out of the scope without changing your zero. 2: Totally remove the screws and replace the cap. You won't change your zero. This is really optional, and is only so you don't get dirt in the recesses. Lots of folks don't...

Yeah, I think the eyepiece on the SR-8 is the same as the SN-3. I have an SN-3 as well, and from the pictures of the SR-8 they look identical. That's a good way of figuring out what I need: just measure the height of my SN-3 (mounted with Badger low rings on a Badger riser) and find a QD mount...

I'm definitely interested in what they come up with for the "soft frame" as well. Ceylon, sent you a PM...Looking for a new GS II in dark earth, along with some accessories.

Does the Bobro have any cant on it?

Awesome; much appreciated. It even looks like it's just high enough for a rear KAC BUIS. And, I now see why you need a cantilever to get the proper eye relief. BTW, sweet looking setup you have there! Just out of curiosity, what's your zero set at, and how does that work for close targets...

Thanks for the info! Any idea which one you're using? Their website shows three Scout mounts: the Scout, the Scout-X, and the Scout-S. Some appear to have a longer cantilever than others. On that note, is a cantilever mount necessary?

Hey guys, What are some good mounting solutions for the USO SR8 1-8? I have one on order and will be putting it on an SPRish AR-15 to shoot out to 800 yards. I want it as low as possible, but high enough to clear a KAC 600m rear BUIS. QD would be nice, but not critical. I think I remember...