I love stocks that come off the bottom - been doing builds like that for decades. It’s ludicrously uninformed to think that you’ll need to run simulations to see how it manages recoil.
Provided you can draw a straight line from center muzzle to center breech thru to shoulder pad it doesn’t...
Nice!
Have you tried using an acoustic pickup and then modeling the waves to map out how close to center the hits are? You could blink the light more rapidly for closer hits.
Or just buy yourself a 3 foot length of drill rod, cut it down, tap it for a handle and sell the rest.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18581&step=4&showunits=mm&id=160&top_cat=1354
I don't understand your question.
With a 40 MOA base your zero will start 40 MOA off "normal". Every adjustment for elevation for the first 40 MOA will be moving the reticle towards the center of its range of travel. At 41 MOA of adjustment you will be moving the reticle away from its center...
40 MOA means your zero should be 20 MOA off maxed out, which ought to be fine on the Vortex for 100 yards.
At 1800 yards you're probably looking at about 80 MOA of adjustment (guessing at 2700 FPS for the Bergers). So that's right on the margins with 20, just fine with 40.
And why the hell...
Here's how I think about it. If your scope has 100 MOA of travel then a flat top gives you 50. Let's subtract 10 for margin of error (some scopes are wonky at the extreme edges of their travel). At 600 yards shooting 175s in a 308 you will need 15.58 MOA. You won't run out until you hit 1000...
Nice work. I'm about to jump in on another build and you're giving me good ideas.
I worry about the set screws, even with the ground flats. Please let us know if they wind up slipping or holding. You could always double up with the set screws and that would effectively lock things in place...