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I love stocks that come off the bottom - been doing builds like that for decades. It’s ludicrously uninformed to think that you’ll need to run simulations to see how it manages recoil. Provided you can draw a straight line from center muzzle to center breech thru to shoulder pad it doesn’t...

Oh and I'm shooting the 140s as well.

Go shorter. I have a 20 inch truck axle on my 260 and it shoots darts.

How are things progressing?

Nice! Have you tried using an acoustic pickup and then modeling the waves to map out how close to center the hits are? You could blink the light more rapidly for closer hits.

Well darn! But best to you of course. Where in TX?

Or just buy yourself a 3 foot length of drill rod, cut it down, tap it for a handle and sell the rest. http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=18581&step=4&showunits=mm&id=160&top_cat=1354

I don't understand your question. With a 40 MOA base your zero will start 40 MOA off "normal". Every adjustment for elevation for the first 40 MOA will be moving the reticle towards the center of its range of travel. At 41 MOA of adjustment you will be moving the reticle away from its center...

Read my post a few back on this - for his range, scope and bullet he's going to need that 40 MOA.

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

Finally got mine from midway!

40 MOA means your zero should be 20 MOA off maxed out, which ought to be fine on the Vortex for 100 yards. At 1800 yards you're probably looking at about 80 MOA of adjustment (guessing at 2700 FPS for the Bergers). So that's right on the margins with 20, just fine with 40. And why the hell...

Here's how I think about it. If your scope has 100 MOA of travel then a flat top gives you 50. Let's subtract 10 for margin of error (some scopes are wonky at the extreme edges of their travel). At 600 yards shooting 175s in a 308 you will need 15.58 MOA. You won't run out until you hit 1000...

That's going to be lower by less than a mm, right? Not really enough of a difference to be the reason why you'd go with a flat base.

Nice work. I'm about to jump in on another build and you're giving me good ideas. I worry about the set screws, even with the ground flats. Please let us know if they wind up slipping or holding. You could always double up with the set screws and that would effectively lock things in place...

When we shot Thunder Ranch HART (which is where the picture above is from) there was a lot of snow and also low clouds between us and the steel at the end of the range. You could see the targets for a fraction of a second and then they'd disappear. Not enough time to be sure of the shot...

Yeah that Savage 10P is a sweet deal. I don't generally trust package deals with scopes. I own a few SS scopes and they are great glass for the price.

Have you read Zak's stuff on demigod? I learned a ton reading this back when he first posted it. Start here: http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-equipment/ http://demigodllc.com/articles/practical-long-range-rifle-shooting-optics/...

New guy would like some build advice please. Dry fire. Dry fire as much as you can possibly stand, and then dry fire that many shots again, every time you go to the range. Dry fire at home. Dry fire all the freaking time. Do it until the reticle doesn't move at all, not a shimmer, not...

FFP, zero stop and mil/mil are all requirements for me with optics now that I've been using them. ED or HD glass is very nice. I don't think you'll find all of those for under $1K. Why not skip the expensive chassis, get a drop-in AI mag bottom metal, epoxy bed the stock you already have...