Summit Build : follow my mental illness journey
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Got a lot of questions by guys at the match and overheard a few comments as I was running a stage with it. It's for sure a fun gun. Clearly plenty capable for prs style matches.
Never realized how hard Lapua was to find. Had to settle for a brick of Pistol OSP to test out. I was going to go today and stripped my gun down to give it a good cleaning before testing the new ammo and found the below.
When I was at my parents after the match I tested the gun with a new lot of Wolf and it shot like absolute crap. This would explain it but I have no idea when or how it broke. Since new I've dry fired this gun and never had the pin impact the breech face. I'm going to assume the pin broke and then however it fired broken caused the dimple in the barrel.
I tried sliding a round in the chamber and you can see it shaving the bullet really bad. Another reason it shot like crap. I took a fine jewelers file to it and got it out and polished it up. Can hardly tell it was even there. No more dry fire on this gun unless it has snap caps.
Going to take this opportunity to address some things like the child length of pull, a better way to mount a harris and add a little weight to the butt.
The firing pin is titanium and $38 for the little fucker. Just outside their 1 year warranty. Probably order 2 to be on the safe side.
When I was at my parents after the match I tested the gun with a new lot of Wolf and it shot like absolute crap. This would explain it but I have no idea when or how it broke. Since new I've dry fired this gun and never had the pin impact the breech face. I'm going to assume the pin broke and then however it fired broken caused the dimple in the barrel.
I tried sliding a round in the chamber and you can see it shaving the bullet really bad. Another reason it shot like crap. I took a fine jewelers file to it and got it out and polished it up. Can hardly tell it was even there. No more dry fire on this gun unless it has snap caps.
Going to take this opportunity to address some things like the child length of pull, a better way to mount a harris and add a little weight to the butt.
The firing pin is titanium and $38 for the little fucker. Just outside their 1 year warranty. Probably order 2 to be on the safe side.
Got my 2 firing pins in and ordered extra barrel shims and extractor kit while I was at it. Put them in and decided it's time to address some things I wanted to improve.
First I ordered the lop kit from krg. This kit comeswith a rubber butt pad vs the cheap plastic one the quick adjust version came with. That alone was worth the money but I was hoping it would push me far enough back I could get proper eye relief on my scope which is already as far forward as I can get it before ordering a cantilever mount. I got cheap rings to lower it which is nice but the lop kit wasn't enough.
Next up was the weight up front and mounting the bipod better. The 10/22 Bravo doesn't have the slants in the front to hold a harris straight so I needed to mount a pic rail to keep it centered and ran a bipod stud through that. I also took a chunk of steel and cut slots for the screws that matte the plastic exterior to the backbone. This runs from the front almost to the action mounting point. Added some good weight to the front for sure.
The last thing I wanted to address since I have no 2nd mount point yet is the fit of the rear. Krg sends 2 shims (.010" and .020") but even the .010" was too thick to seat the action. Luckily enough a tape measure tape measures .007" and a piece of blue painters tape .005". I started with making a quick shim from the tape measure and a light tap on the muzzle and she locks up right in the back. With how tight it is I'm not sure how much better a tang mount could be. What it could still improve on is bedding on the sides of the action between the backbone. The barrel can still shift left or right with a good hit.
I still plan to throw some weights in the pistol grip and perhaps in the back of the stock in the cavity they have. I also really need to get a cantilever scope mount. I can't get a good face mount on the gun with this scope, needs to move forward at least 1-2".
Looking forward to testing done ammo and the improvements .
First I ordered the lop kit from krg. This kit comeswith a rubber butt pad vs the cheap plastic one the quick adjust version came with. That alone was worth the money but I was hoping it would push me far enough back I could get proper eye relief on my scope which is already as far forward as I can get it before ordering a cantilever mount. I got cheap rings to lower it which is nice but the lop kit wasn't enough.
Next up was the weight up front and mounting the bipod better. The 10/22 Bravo doesn't have the slants in the front to hold a harris straight so I needed to mount a pic rail to keep it centered and ran a bipod stud through that. I also took a chunk of steel and cut slots for the screws that matte the plastic exterior to the backbone. This runs from the front almost to the action mounting point. Added some good weight to the front for sure.
The last thing I wanted to address since I have no 2nd mount point yet is the fit of the rear. Krg sends 2 shims (.010" and .020") but even the .010" was too thick to seat the action. Luckily enough a tape measure tape measures .007" and a piece of blue painters tape .005". I started with making a quick shim from the tape measure and a light tap on the muzzle and she locks up right in the back. With how tight it is I'm not sure how much better a tang mount could be. What it could still improve on is bedding on the sides of the action between the backbone. The barrel can still shift left or right with a good hit.
I still plan to throw some weights in the pistol grip and perhaps in the back of the stock in the cavity they have. I also really need to get a cantilever scope mount. I can't get a good face mount on the gun with this scope, needs to move forward at least 1-2".
Looking forward to testing done ammo and the improvements .
This is how I did my rear anchor, and it works like a charm. “L” shaped bracket made out of stainless steel and a pin welded to the vertical that is the same diameter as the rear cleaning port on the receiver.I get Zero flex.
The rifle is definitely competitive out to 200 yards using Wolf Match. I am using a Kidd 20” stainless, threaded, and Kidd back bores them like Anschutz does. I have zero complaints with the build.
The rifle is definitely competitive out to 200 yards using Wolf Match. I am using a Kidd 20” stainless, threaded, and Kidd back bores them like Anschutz does. I have zero complaints with the build.
Concerns:
Research “chamber iron” and you will understand the error of filing away the displaced metal at the chamber rim.
Did you ever use a steel firing pin or only the titanium? What do your pin strikes look like on the fired cases?
There should be a slight radius where the pin changes diameter to decrease the stress loading, if it’s a sharp corner cut the new one will fail as well.
I want one of these models in stainless steel, just have too many irons in the fire!
Research “chamber iron” and you will understand the error of filing away the displaced metal at the chamber rim.
Did you ever use a steel firing pin or only the titanium? What do your pin strikes look like on the fired cases?
There should be a slight radius where the pin changes diameter to decrease the stress loading, if it’s a sharp corner cut the new one will fail as well.
I want one of these models in stainless steel, just have too many irons in the fire!
I'll have to look up a chamber iron. Still no proof yet if it will effect this rifle in the end but hopefully this weekend I'll see.
The firing pin is titanium and there was no option for any other material type. It is not a typical 10/22 pin. I'll have to look at the pin harder but there really isn't much radius if at all.
What I'm suspecting is the hammer was dropped when the bolt wasn't completely forward. This would allow the hammer to strike the pin more on an upward strike rather than directly behind. I'm thinking this caused a bend motion in the pin and caused it to break as it did.
Just found out I'll have access to a nice mill later this year. I'll be making something up exactly like this. I have no welder or I'd go for it lol.This is how I did my rear anchor, and it works like a charm. “L” shaped bracket made out of stainless steel and a pin welded to the vertical that is the same diameter as the rear cleaning port on the receiver.I get Zero flex.
The rifle is definitely competitive out to 200 yards using Wolf Match. I am using a Kidd 20” stainless, threaded, and Kidd back bores them like Anschutz does. I have zero complaints with the build.
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