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Join contest SubscribeThis.They are actually totally arbitrary. The point is you should be using a ballistic calculator but it is best to pick a known distance. If all your shooting is a known distance like 50 or 100yrd rimfire then the sight in distance is easy. I like setting my zero stop a know distance from which I can dial up or hold over. But it is always a known entity. I dislike holding under and with a zero stop you can’t dial down. So if your closest shot will be 600yrds that is a good zero. But get a calculator and range finder so you can get quality dope.
In a addition to that, even accommodating a BDC isn't as simple as just zeroing at 50 because the manual said to. As you said, 50/200 almost never works out and chances are you aren't shooting the exact bullet at the exact speed in the same environmentals that the reticle designer input into his program when he spaced his stadia hashes.50 yards, 100 yards .... those are pretty arbitrary numbers unless you're trying to accommodate a BDC or something. Get a ballistic calculator, figure out what your maximum point blank range is based on your needs and zero for what the app tells you is best.
The idea of doing all of that dialing seems fun in your head, but when you get out and start doing it, you're gonna realize that less dialing is better.
Don't have it in your head that a 50/200 zero is a real thing. It's a combat zero based on a specific rifle configuration shooting a specific ammo. Don't just zero at 50 and think you'll be good at 200. Zero for the farther distance (always zero at the far distance, no matter what zero you're using).
I shoot a 16" rig. The ammo I run is 77gr Barnes Matchburners at 2681 fps. I want all of my shoots to land in a group no larger than 3". This puts my maximum point blank range at just over 200 yards. So, for everything out to 200, I just hold dead center and fudge it a tad if I need to. I zero at 200 on that rig.