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Best way to fix cracked bedding? (Model 70)

Whoopsie

Private
Minuteman
Jun 16, 2025
4
0
Gayle
The bedding near my recoil lug is cracked. I want to fix it the correct way. I imagine copying what was done at the factory is my best bet. How can I ‘restore’ this bedding?

I’ve read that there should be no bedding at the front of the recoil lug and it appears this is what was done at the factory.
 

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The old stuff needs to be removed, and it just needs to be rebedded. Do the same to the tang as well. Research a bit online, it’s not a difficult job. Generally you mask the front, sides, and bottom of the lug when you’re setting up so you have clearance on the surfaces.
I’m sure I’ll come across these answers as I start doing more detailed research, but opinions seem to very on how tight the action screws should be (if installed at all) while the epoxy is drying. Is there a definitive answer? Also the barrel is currently floating, when I remove the previous bedding will I have to focus on floating the barrel or is the stock already recessed for the floating barrel?
 
There is a definitive answer, and that is no screw torque on the action. Google “bedding studs”. They only serve to align everything. I tape them from the point where the screw emerges from the action, all the way through the stock hole. This centers the stud in the stock hole, and prevents bedding from squishing into the hole around the stud. The receiver screw when torques should touch nothing but the receiver threads l, and the back side of the heads agains the bottom metal.

You’ll have to maintain the elevation of the action somehow so it sits level in the stock. This could be done by leaving a small pad of the old bedding (not the crushed bit of course), or a shim of some sort.
 
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I used Jb weld original and it did not stick to the synthetic stock. I switched to Jb plastiweld and that stuck to the stock pretty good. as far as copying what was done at the factory I think it should be as good or better. I floated the barrel by wrapping electrical tape around the barrel before setting it in the stock.
 

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I’m sure I’ll come across these answers as I start doing more detailed research, but opinions seem to very on how tight the action screws should be (if installed at all) while the epoxy is drying. Is there a definitive answer? Also the barrel is currently floating, when I remove the previous bedding will I have to focus on floating the barrel or is the stock already recessed for the floating barrel?
I've found, that if you dont torque the action down super tight on the wet epoxy, and you have a blind magazine box, when you go to reassemble this set up, the action will now be quite a bit higher in the action, and now, your magazine box when fitted into the receiver, will have a few millimeters of free space at the bottom to allow it to drop out of the receiver. Now, the loaded rounds wont index correctly and it becomes a shitshow. Had this happen on three different rifles. All the same exact problem. Had it happen to 2 Rem 700's and a Howa 1500.
Before bedding they all fed like a tikka. After bedding, they would smash bullet tips into the bottom of the feed ramp at EVERY range outing. Took quite a while to figure out, but it was the little indentations or creases in the sides of the magazine box that indexed the shoulders of the rounds ever so slightly to the 10 o clock for the right round and 2 o clock for the left round, helping the bullet tips avoid that flat at the bottom of the feed ramps. Contrary to what people say, the mag boxes are not supposed to float in there.

Another way to look at it. Take your action out of the stock, then grab your bottom metal and bolt it to the action with no stock. Just snug up the bolts very slightly. THATS how your entire assembly is supposed to fit IN the stock. That's how every part in there was designed to function from the factory. If it's not that way mounted IN the stock, shits going to not function right 100% now, until it gets back to where it was originally.