Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!
- Thread starter karagias
- Start date
Before the appearance of the Gray ops I managed to assemble ( ai aw mags plus hrd kit) four of those. They have all been flawless since then. With little to no adjustments at all they are a breeze either with Vision Pro or acc élite chassis.
Fwiw, there already has been a change to the trigger hanger and the extractor. Those changes might not be worthy of Gen2 status, though.
The extractor is interchangeable. The upgraded trigger hanger requires some filing/sanding to function properly in the first iteration of the CDG.
The extractor is interchangeable. The upgraded trigger hanger requires some filing/sanding to function properly in the first iteration of the CDG.
For those interested that can't find the HRD kit anymore
I found this guy who made a printed version of the HRD and I tried it and so far it does works, even with a grendel/arc case ...
I found this guy who made a printed version of the HRD and I tried it and so far it does works, even with a grendel/arc case ...
I put a 6.5 PRC cut for a Nucleus/Mausingfield on a CDG to check headspace.
It checked.
It checked.
I used the 6GT mags without issue for 6 ARC. Ran 100 rounds without issue through my CDG with a 6 arc barrel.
Anybody occasionally have a 6GT round not get picked up out of factory AW mags? Typically last round or close to last round.
I'm finally getting my barreled action this week, but i have a question for you all. I am putting a scope that will not be the permanent scope but i want to get the proper rings for the permanent scope.
I am wondering what height rings you are using for a 56mm objective. It will sit in a manners compact stock and i need the objective clear a M24 contour.
Hope this makes sense.
This setup should clear any barrel swaps in the future.
I am looking at nightforce or mdt rings right now.
Thank you in advance.
I am wondering what height rings you are using for a 56mm objective. It will sit in a manners compact stock and i need the objective clear a M24 contour.
Hope this makes sense.
This setup should clear any barrel swaps in the future.
I am looking at nightforce or mdt rings right now.
Thank you in advance.
Pretty sure no one us doing the figure out what height rings puts my scope .001 inch off the barrel thing anymore. I run arc xhigh on everything.
You want to clear the barrel....as you identified....but you also need to get your eye in...well, the eye box and that depends on if you have an adjustable comb and the geometry of your face.
Personally I like ARC rings but Ted has a procedure for determining ring height that can be used for any rings.
2nd on the Extra High ARC rings, if you aren't comfortable on the gun, you aren't going to shoot well.
Easy button is to always get at least 1.5” high rings if you don’t like laying your head sideways on the stock.
Ballistically, it doesn’t matter what the height is as long as you enter the correct center-of-bore to center-of-scope height into your solver.
On one rifle I have, I accidentally entered 1.87” vs. 2.35”, and my drops were totally off.
Ballistically, it doesn’t matter what the height is as long as you enter the correct center-of-bore to center-of-scope height into your solver.
On one rifle I have, I accidentally entered 1.87” vs. 2.35”, and my drops were totally off.
Normally I'm also in the camp of higher rings are better for comfort and a vertical head position and recommend 1.5 tall rings, but being he's using a manners CS or CS2 that has no vertical height adjustment in the butt pad and possibly no adjustable cheek rest (depending on what version he gets) I'm going to recommend rings in the 1.1-1.25 range. Both should be more than enough height for a 56mm objective plus caps with an M24 contour barrel, and either should allow for a nice vertical head position depending on your face shape, and also it should keep the butt pad more centered height-wise on the shoulder.
I've found if you start going too high on the rings for a nice vertical head position without having a vertically adjustable butt pad on the stock that you can raise the scope up to the point where the stock is now sitting too low on your shoulder and the top corner of the butt pad digs into your shoulder, which in some positions is very uncomfortable especially on heavier recoiling rifles.
I've started to look at the scope ring height in sort of a reverse way; while I want to maintain vertical head position as a primary comfort concern, at this point consider your vertical head/eye position, scope, and cheek rest relationship as locked in and the taller the rings, the more it pushes the barrel centerline down further into the center of your shoulder contact. While pushing the bore axis further down from the scope bringing it closer to the center of the contact area with your shoulder helps with muzzle flip and feel during recoil, as you go taller on the rings and push the action and stock down, you also need to be able to raise the butt pad up enough to keep it centered on your shoulder.
If you have a conventional non-folding stock it typically has a comb and butt pad that's positioned lower than the bore for cleaning rod access, and once you start going too high on the rings the buttpad is now too sitting too low on your shoulder and the top corner of it can dig uncomfortably into your shoulder.
For that reason I run lower rings on my manners LRH stocks that I can't adjust the buttpad height on (even though I would prefer to go higher on the rings to push the bore axis closer to the center of my shoulder), and I run taller rings on my manners TCS stocks since they have vertically adjustable butt pads that can be raised above the bore axis. I have nice vertical head positions on each stock, but the LRH stocks with lower rings have more muzzle flip from the bore axis being higher on my shoulder.
I really like how my AI's recoil with a 2.95" scope height over bore which centers the bore axis up nicely with my shoulder, but many stocks do not have enough cheek rest height or butt height adjustment to allow that.
Just something to consider, and remember that everyone is built different.
I've found if you start going too high on the rings for a nice vertical head position without having a vertically adjustable butt pad on the stock that you can raise the scope up to the point where the stock is now sitting too low on your shoulder and the top corner of the butt pad digs into your shoulder, which in some positions is very uncomfortable especially on heavier recoiling rifles.
I've started to look at the scope ring height in sort of a reverse way; while I want to maintain vertical head position as a primary comfort concern, at this point consider your vertical head/eye position, scope, and cheek rest relationship as locked in and the taller the rings, the more it pushes the barrel centerline down further into the center of your shoulder contact. While pushing the bore axis further down from the scope bringing it closer to the center of the contact area with your shoulder helps with muzzle flip and feel during recoil, as you go taller on the rings and push the action and stock down, you also need to be able to raise the butt pad up enough to keep it centered on your shoulder.
If you have a conventional non-folding stock it typically has a comb and butt pad that's positioned lower than the bore for cleaning rod access, and once you start going too high on the rings the buttpad is now too sitting too low on your shoulder and the top corner of it can dig uncomfortably into your shoulder.
For that reason I run lower rings on my manners LRH stocks that I can't adjust the buttpad height on (even though I would prefer to go higher on the rings to push the bore axis closer to the center of my shoulder), and I run taller rings on my manners TCS stocks since they have vertically adjustable butt pads that can be raised above the bore axis. I have nice vertical head positions on each stock, but the LRH stocks with lower rings have more muzzle flip from the bore axis being higher on my shoulder.
I really like how my AI's recoil with a 2.95" scope height over bore which centers the bore axis up nicely with my shoulder, but many stocks do not have enough cheek rest height or butt height adjustment to allow that.
Just something to consider, and remember that everyone is built different.
Your standard 1.54 rings/mounts get you there on an AXMC because it's a larger diameter bolt and taller action as well as the really tall scope rail to work with the handguard rail on the AX. My AX308s having smaller diameter bolts and are a little lower at 2.85 over bore, but that's still higher than most R700s which usually end up in the 2.25-2.5 range with 1.25-1.50 high rings.
An AX with the top rail on the handguard pretty much requires a 1.50 or taller mount for 56mm objective clearance, however the entire buttstock of the AX was designed with that tall optic over bore height in mind. They're exceptionally comfortable to shoot and track very very well under recoil, and I give a lot of that credit to the scope being so high it pushes the bore axis nicely down closer to the center of your shoulder minimizing distance between the recoil force delivered along the bore axis and the contact point on your shoulder while also pretty much forcing you to adopt a vertical head position.
The AX isn't ideal for PRS or barricade bag support shooting though because of the bump right in front of the mag well at the balance point. Besides being angled, if you set the rifle on a bag there the thickness of that hand grip puts the CG of the rifle well above the bag and it gets top heavy and "tippy."
While my TCS stocks have plenty of vertical buttpad adjustment to allow a 2.75+" scope height over bore, when I tried it I ran out of cheek rest adjustment even with the KMW tall columns because of my face shape. Also, it looked really stupid... and while I know cosmetics should take a back seat to ergonomics, I hated how the TCS looked with a mile of gap between the objective and barrel and the cheekrest sticking way over the rest of the buttstock on those little columns, lol
I thought i answered the first couple of responses but i guess my phone is sucking today.
The Manners compact stock does have an optional cheek riser (see photo) but it's just a formed piece of carbon. It's held on with 10-32 screws and probably won't take a huge side load going with extra high rings. I have some more spacers on the way and can test that theory when they show up. But like kiba said that might put the recoil pad to low on my shoulder and most definitely on my kids shoulder. I don't have a 34mm scope with a 56mm objective so i might have to use the one i have with a 50mm objective and do some math. Usually i would use a geissele mount but this project would benefit from rings.
The Manners compact stock does have an optional cheek riser (see photo) but it's just a formed piece of carbon. It's held on with 10-32 screws and probably won't take a huge side load going with extra high rings. I have some more spacers on the way and can test that theory when they show up. But like kiba said that might put the recoil pad to low on my shoulder and most definitely on my kids shoulder. I don't have a 34mm scope with a 56mm objective so i might have to use the one i have with a 50mm objective and do some math. Usually i would use a geissele mount but this project would benefit from rings.
Attachments
With the spacers installed that style of cheek rest is pretty stout even with only 2x screws holding it on.
What I don't like about that "add on" style of cheek rest is that it sticks off the side of the buttstock a bit and thus pushes your head and eye further away from the centerline of the stock and optic and pretty much forces you to lean your head over to get into the scope. You can partially alleviate that by setting the cheek rest lower and using more of a lower cheek/jaw weld since the natural taper of your jaw will let your head remain vertical while getting your eye closer to the center of the scope. Again, this is all very dependent on the end user and face shape as well as the width and shape of the cheek rest.
Knowing you have that cheek rest that gives you a few more options and I'd be more inclined to try 1.25ish rings first, but since the rifle sounds like it will do double duty between adults and children you'll probably have to find a happy compromise; possibly choose rings that you don't need the cheek rest for, but then you can bolt the cheek rest on when the kids use it.
You might want to whip up some spacer blocks and test different scope heights so you and the kids can see what height works best before buying rings. I remembered seeing some 3D printed ring height simulators that slid over the rail and had semi circle saddles for holding the scope as well as holes for zip ties to hold the scope down, but I can't find the website with the files now.
Since you mentioned it, i found these on thingiverse for testing height, guess I'll dust off the 3d printer and get to work. I didnt even know these were a thing.
34mm
30mm
I suck at 3d software but i could try different cheek pieces if the carbon piece pushes me too far left.
A lot depends on your face shape and how it fits the shape of the cheek rest. For me, I've found that unless the cheekrest is really narrow or can be adjusted to the side I have to run it low and have more of a jaw weld to keep a vertical head position to prevent "leaning over" into the scope.
I tend towards running them lower for more of a jaw weld rather than translating them to one side for cheek bone support because a cheekrest pushed way over to the right for comfy right hand use and cheek bone support makes it impossible for me to get into the scope and get a shot off left handed if the position requires shooting from my left side, whereas the lower centered jaw weld position works both left and right side.
I tend towards running them lower for more of a jaw weld rather than translating them to one side for cheek bone support because a cheekrest pushed way over to the right for comfy right hand use and cheek bone support makes it impossible for me to get into the scope and get a shot off left handed if the position requires shooting from my left side, whereas the lower centered jaw weld position works both left and right side.
