What’s your opinion on Otis Ripcord?

Small_Arms_Collector

Private
Minuteman
Sep 6, 2025
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Michigan
What’s your opinion on Otis Ripcord bore cleaners? Do they actually work as advertised?

Wouldn’t fouling get embedded on/in the ripcord over time reducing it’s effectiveness and potentially becoming abrasive to the bore?

Would a one piece nylon/coated cleaning rod and traditional solvents work better?
 
I would never use one for regular cleaning, you want a quality rod, with a bore guide, jag, etc. etc. I suppose it could be okay for a field cleaner but ask yourself, are you spending so much time remotely in the field and firing so many rounds in the field that you even need a deep cleaning? The only people I could maybe see needing that are maybe pdog shooters and most of those guys drag an entire shooting bench with them, might as well drag a real cleaning kit too :) Often they say you can clean bore snakes, but you are still going to get embedded carbon etc. in them that won't wash out, and that stuff is crazy hard, you do not want it embedded in something that's being pressed tight against your barrel and pulled through a lot.

I could see a pull through compact cleaner being useful in the field if you are out for days at a time and might get wet, being able to pull some dry patches through and re-oil the barrel interior would be handy, but those are not of the same design, they are really just a cable that pulls a brush or patch, not a cloth bore snake.

Now bore snakes can be useful. I'll take a cheap undersize boresnake, take the brushes out, and I use it at the range after shooting to just get some hoppes #9 in the barrel to start the cleaning process, but that's it. Something like the .22 cal hoppe's version will work for 22-.308s if you just want to get some cleaner in the barrel.
 
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The real problem isn't the brushes, it's the carbon in the barrel. If that gets built up in the cloth of the bore snake, it's basically like pulling emory cloth down the barrel, do that at a sharp angle with pressure (some bore snakes are really tight) over the crown and it would not shock me to see wear over time. Hell we've seen grooves in the bottom of barrels from cleaning rods going out the muzzle enough times. So if you do use a bore snake you want to keep it clean, or replace it often, and try to pull strait out of the muzzle.

It's really the same with brushes, it's not the nylon or brass bristles that scratch the bore it's the bristles grinding loosened carbon into and down the barrel. It's why you should never use an abrasive cleaner with a brush (well everyone can do whatever they want but I'll never do it) :) If you do use a brush clean it every time you use it and replace it often. People think nylon brushes are safer but they are actually more likely to get carbon embedded into the ends of the bristles than copper brushes, nylon has the "advantage" of being more flexible with less bristle pressure than brass.
 
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Some folks probably know more about that than me, but personally in centerfires I never clean between ammo types in the same gun. The only exception to that would be if I shot steel case ammo, which I never do anymore, I'd clean between switching. I've heard steel case ammo does not expand as much so it can create more carbon buildup in chambers, so then if you switch to brass you can get a stuck case. Of course I've also heard that's a myth. What I can say is when I've mixed the two in the same shooting session, pretty much always in AR's I've had problems, even in guns that run either ammo fine (as long as you don't mix them in the same session).

I do believe in rimfire guns, if you switch ammo, especially since some of them have drastically different bullet lube, that it can take a few rounds to have the barrel settle down with the new lube. One camp feels that a "strip to metal" cleaning is actually counter productive because it removes all the lube that has been "seasoned" in the barrel. Quite a few tend to advocate for cleaning just the chamber to remove any carbon fowling and basically leaving the rest of the barrel alone. The theory being that it helps even out MV etc.

Vudoo's recommended cleaning is similar, basically get the carbon out of the chamber and leave the rest of the barrel alone, he also states they believe it can take 1000 rounds to fully season a barrel for max performance. However one also has to remember the game, there are no sighters/fowlers allowed in PRS, like there is in say various benchrest competitions, so the gun has to perform first shot of the day.

That said, on some of the rimfire benchrest forums, it seems the vast majority say they do a full cleaning, every match, most appear to use brass brushes as well, and from what I've read most indicate that only a handful of rounds are needed to get back to max accuracy. Not saying either is right or wrong, but clearly benchrest demands more pure accuracy performance than PRS/NRL rimfire does.

I also thought it was interesting that several people on some of the benchrest forums reported boretech cleaners causing corrosion, we've seen Frank from Bartlein report that as well. In almost every case I read it seemed to result from people leaving the products in the barrel too long (after all boretech cleaners are water based, so it's not surprising they would cause corrosion if left)

At first I downplayed that concern because you just make sure you dry patch the barrel out. However, what I didn't think of that many brought up, is that the corrosion they ran into was not often in the barrel, but where the water based cleaner might seep to, for example back into the action, feed ramp, trigger, chamber etc. This could be a bigger concern in rimfire guns simply because the boreguide does not go into the chamber, so cleaning fluid can easily migrate down the chamber face and into the action. Where with most centerfire guides go into the chamber and often have o-ring seals. It also probably helps to make sure the barrel is angled downward a bit.