Leupold or vortex

Big joe

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Minuteman
Feb 24, 2013
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just bought a 6.5 CM solus and will be shooting up to 1000 regularly and up to mile few times a year. I’m looking at 2 different scopes which one would be better

Vortex Viper PST gen 2 5-25x50 or
Leupold M4 6-24x52

Looking to spend no more than $1500

I have a PST on 308
My dad has PST on his 6.5 cm and 6.8.

Reason I’ve considered the Leupold is it has more elevation adjustment than vortex

we shot my dads gun at a mile and couldn’t come close to hitting

But also not sure if the Leupold has enough elevation adjustment for a mile

Thanks
Joe
 
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just bought a 6.5 CM solus and will be shooting up to 1000 regularly and up to mile few times a year. I’m looking at 2 different scopes which one would be better

Vortex Viper PST gen 2 5-25x50 or
Leupold M4 6-24x52

Looking to spend no more than $1500

I have a PST on 308
My dad has PST on his 6.5 cm and 6.8.

Reason I’ve considered the Leupold is it has more elevation adjustment than vortex

we shot my dads gun at a mile and couldn’t come close to hitting

Thanks
Joe
If you know the PST won’t get you where you want to go, then that ones out. I would look for a used Mk 5 or something else in the PX, or hit up Richard( just saw his post)
 
Will take about 24-26 mils to get to a mile with a Creedmoor depending on ammo so plan to use something that will allow you to dial that much or dial until you max and hold the rest with a good reticle.
 
I would be looking at adjustment range as one of my top priorities if shooting a mile was a priority. It's not for me, so I don't really know what has big range. You have a lot of better options than the PST2 with a budget of 1500.

Yeah you can find a used Razor Gen II 4.5-27 for that price. They have 33 mils of elevation so on a 40 moa base you can dial to a mile with a Creedmoor. I only had mine on a 20 moa base so had to hold over to make the mile.
 
I was going to suggest a used Gen 2 Razor in the PX but @Rob01 beat me to it.

I have had ... ok luck with the Vortex Strike Eagle, but once you get out in the 1000-1200 yard range on one of them, the clarity and sharp focus diminishes. Athlon's higher end scopes are a good bang for the buck as suggested.

Try and look through the model you are considering purchasing prior to buying. Everyone's eyes are different.
 
you might consider.....zeroing at a farther distance to get some elevation back in the turrets.
I hear this mentioned fairly often, but don't understand how it helps.

Let me see if I'm correct: Assuming I zero'd at 100yds and only have 12 mils up elevation remaining in my turret.

If I move to 300yds and have to "add" (dial) 2 mils up via the turrets to get zero'd, wouldn't I only have 10 mils elevation remaining?
 
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I hear this mentioned fairly often, but don't understand how it helps.

Let me see if I'm correct: Assuming I zero'd at 100yds and only have 12 mils up elevation remaining in my turret.

If I move to 300yds and have to "add" (dial) 2 mils up via the turrets to get zero'd, wouldn't I only have 10 mils elevation remaining?
Yes. You need to change the scopes mount off set where the scope and bore align with each other. Just zeroing at a different distance does nothing for making more elevation travel available in the scope.
 
Yes. You need to change the scopes mount off set where the scope and bore align with each other. Just zeroing at a different distance does nothing for making more elevation travel available in the scope.
and @smoothy8500

I was unclear and this is what I meant. Mount a canted rail and then zero at perhaps 300 to 500 yards.

These guys made a shot at 4.4 miles with a lot of cant in the mounts. They also happen to use the Vortex Razor Gen III 6-36X56 but use whatever optic you want.



By having the optic in a canted rail or mount, it will cause you to bring the barrel up. Essentially, the job is much like a mortar being fired. The rifle is lobbing the projectile at the target.