I may try it with my Tikka T3 rifle first.
9/21/14: I started on my Target to check zero and got 3 rd in 2 holes touching, group was .3" at 100yrd.
Then, I tried to shoot the printed target and I could not see the "dots" at 100 yrs with 24X. Couple shot and I gave up.
I will post my zero-check...
For my 300WM, I had to use this trick to stop slipping once and for all. I placed on the inside of the rings, baseball bat's handle friction black tape. You get one at any Sports Academy.
Correct. COAL, Cartridge overall length, from base to the tip. You may do COAL of Spec + 0.015" and load for a go-check rd. And your loads has +0.010" over spec. Wait form 2nd Opinion as more gun builders experts are here to help.
I am still really confused the obsession to get a WW1 riffle and try to make a decent shooter. Those rifles are never meant to be decent shooter. It was meant to be a man stopper up to 100 yrd or so, very cheap and easy to train the soldier to shoot it. Nothing special about this rifle in those...
It is like a fisher says, I have a seafood to sell. All fishers will sell a lot of seafood, but what is it? No idea. So, unless, someone describes the item for sale or provide specs, I am sorry I cannot buy fish in the ocean.
First lesson I learned from mounting is never underestimate the recoil for big caliber. Both my of Bushnell Elite 6500 on top of Tikka T3 (30-06) and Valdada Crusader on top of Steyr SSG004 300 WM) shifted under recoil. Valdada sent me a beefy 6-scews scope rings and I added a base ball bat...
As for range, if you are using elevation adjustment turrets, I would say 750 yrd or some 700m give or take. If you are using a duplex hunting scope, I would say 400 yrd or some 360m.