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New Contest Starting Now! This Target Haunts Me
Tell us about the one that got away, the flier that ruined your group, the zero that drifted, the shot you still see when you close your eyes. Winner will receive a free scope!
Barry,
Its a good idea to work up to max incrementally. I usually load in .5 gr increments until I get 1 grain to max then I switch to .2gr increments and carefully examine the brass as I get closer to and over max. Reloading manuals are simply a guide for what worked for that combo over that...
I like and suggest the Sierra manual. I like that is uses real firearms that most of us can afford and that their load data is on the REALLY safe side. Their max charges can be a full 2 grains lower than other manuals so it is really hard to get into pressure/safety concerns. I also like that...
I have both and prefer a beam scale. Drafts affect the accuracy of my electronic scale. With my beam scale I just intentionally throw a charge a few tenths under and trickle up. I wouldn't suggest trying to trickle a 'few grains'...that would take forever. The beam scale I use is a dillon...
Its all I use. I have used a SB sizer but have found over the years its not necessary. I guess since the military switched to M240's the brass isn't as beat up and over sized. Back 15-20 years ago when it was being fired through M60s it was necessary to use a SB sizer.
Fenix Mike,
I was blowing primers with some of my hand loads in my AR15 and the Tubbs Carrier Weight System stopped the problem and increased accuracy...might work for you too:
AR-15 Carrier Weight System - AR 15 PRODUCTS by Superior Shooting Systems
FGMM is hot ammo and has ALWAYS shown pressure signs in my rifles over the past twenty years...I guess that isn't enough experience though.
If there wasn't a problem with the ammo being hot and blowing primers then why in the fuck would they go through the additional step of crimping the...
Just burn the powder in small piles...small like the size of a heaping table spoon at a time...or take it to your local police department for proper disposal...keep it in a couple gallon milk jugs until you get it there
That would suck to try and find a popped primer at the range...theres a pic in the reloading section that shows a cratered firing pin mark on a stout load for reference
FGMM is hot ammo. Through my bolt 700 when the ambient temp is above 70 I get cratered firing pin marks on the primers and ejector marks...above 80 degrees and the bolt handle is sticky. I guess thats why recently they started crimping the primers.
Besides the HS gage the next thing that comes to mind is the gas block aligned with the port in the bbl properly? An easier way to determine this is by looking at the gas tube where it interfaces with the carrier key you have to remove the bolt from the BCG to tell. The charging handle should...
This thread is precisely why I stopped using varget. One lot was really slow and I had to go over max to achieve target velocity and the next lot needed two full grains less to get the same velocity. Varget just plain sucks in lot-to-lot consistency and it looks like you got a fast lot
Agreed and I add that since Colt doesn't have sole responsibility for the M4 now they are scrambling to recoup sales by supplying 6920's and such to Wally world. I predict once they get another huge govt contract they will shit on us civvies once more
After the great flood here in TN local law enforcement put out a how-to guide of sorts. One item of interest that was addressed was ammunition that got submerged. Said to take the ammo to local PD for proper disposal as a lot of trash goes to an incenerator and we don't want ammo getting burned
I just used a dremel tool on the right side interior of the stock to achieve free movement of the safety. You didn't mention the stock so I add that the original wood stock needed inlet but the B&C stock was drop in. Not much inletting was needed and I apologize for not having pics.