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Mine hated a specific brand of brass no matter how I worked the bolt, Sako as I recall, I believe the ejector was slipping off the rim. Lapua brass behaves perfectly as does GGG. Give another brand a try and see how it behaves. Tony
They are loctited with something based on Kryptonite …… I’ve only removed one (and another on a .375) and it took a LOT of heat to break the loctite down then came off easily.
Thanks Cory, that’s a surprising amount of error! I have FFS on a Trimble which of course works well with the PLRF. I’ve been playing with the Vectronix app and have just worked out how to export from it in to Google Earth. Interesting components but could be so much more. I’m looking...
Give it a try moving your whole forearm from the elbow not the just using your wrist. If I keep my elbow static and just bend my wrist to cycle the bolt I’ll bounce brass off my knuckles in to the port. and run it hard 😁
As above .308 bolt face so simple from that perspective. 12.7x48 sounds interesting ? Are you running it on an SRS? Does it mag feed ? The idea of a long fat round worried me re: feeding. Tony
As ever great info here, I think you just saved me a ton of trouble! Any detail/pics you can share on the magazine changes ? Did you look at anything longer like the .450 Marlin for example? I had not thought of resizing bullets, that certainly increases the options for the Bushmaster. Tony
I’ve mused on that and also .450 Marlin, in my mind I see potential feeding problems with a long fat round hitting the upper chamber before it clears the mag in the DT but I have no practical experience to base that on. Also no experience of belted rounds but that does not feel like much of a leap.