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Yep,vendor here did me right. (Camera land) Now need some time to play with it. Purchased the AGM TS50-640.

Never have been a Burris fan and the few optics I owned were OK at best. Combine crap CS with just OK optics and you will be spending your free time on the phone with them. If you do get two new in box optics I would sell them and buy other glass.

Now the wait for a V2 50-640 to go on sale!

Good point. SD cards are cheap and easy to swap and transfer at faster rates typically than internal memory. I like the V2 a lot, not sure if the lack of the SD card is a deal breaker. Anyone know if it's a standard battery pack or proprietary?

The large capacity rechargeable battery is interesting. Does it have an external power input port / jack ? 5 year warranty is nice to have.

I prefer springers for simplicity and no need for a compressor or air tanks. They are more of a challenge to shoot accurately than a PCP gun. Prior to the TX200 I had an RWS 48 in .22. It was a hard hitting rifle but I could never get consistent accuracy with it after various mounts and optic...

AirArms TX200 in .177 , Leupold scope. Longest crow kills are 60 yards.

I picked up my Ruger X39 from this place. https://www.familyfirearms.com/product/ruger-american-ranch-7.62x39mm-flat-dark-earth-16976 For a $450'ish dollar rifle its actually really nice. Other than replacing the bolt handle ( I hated it ) its ready to go to the range.

I will address slicking up the bolt and cocking surfaces after I get everything working the way I want. I fabricated a bolt knob extension from a grade 8 bolt , turned one end with a 1/8" diameter than fits into the cut off and drilled factory Ruger bolt handle and threaded the other end...

I picked up a Ruger American in X39 because I have an un-used .30 caliber can laying around and its a perfect suppressor host. For a $450 rifle its really not bad. Mine actually has a nice clean trigger , the 20 round Ruger mags fit and feed and not stupid expensive. The stock really is a canoe...

No target when I was test firing a MKII build. Part of my problem is/was the 1942 MKVII ammo I was using for testing.

Rounded up a block of time to declare victory on my Bren MKII weld up and restoration. I had a snag in reliable cycling and went down a rabbit hole on spring rates , loading and cycling. Mechanically my gun is stupid smooth in every aspect. It goes together and comes apart without forcing...

Final stretch : Springs, striker and guide tubes. I mod the striker base to clear the disconnector and radius the edges of the disconnector to clear the 5/16" slot x. 055" deep in the striker base. On my MKI build my striker was making contact / dragging over the disconnector. That bleads...

Cut and welded a piece of key stock to the bottom of the piston post. This gets milled down to the same height of the existing disconnector reset section and extends the length. This will positively reset the disconnector and take that task away from the striker block traveling over it. I will...

It's been hard to get blocks of play time but gradually making progress. Last part to mod for the firing pin transfer bar is drilling a thru hole for a roll pin retainer. You will need a 1/8" carbide drill. The Bren bolts are hard and tough. Piston post milled down to remove auto striker...

Needed a firing pin transfer bar for this build but have three more Bren's to build so I made four. O-1 tool steel and will be hardened to RC C48 this week so I can move on with my build. Nothing exotic but handle turning and watching the DRO. Sized a long bar, cut individual pieces and finish...

Killer work week but forced myself to make a little progress on stuff that has to get done. After welding making sure the receiver, lower frame, cocking handle and bolt & carrier travel freely is a must do. My standard is the "tilt test" for the bolt, carrier and charging handle to travel their...

The little details are what makes the build fun. Selector stop to block the evil FA position. Had some play time and my MKII is now back into a single piece and closer to being back to life.

Grunt work with quality hand files. Cleaning up welds so the rear section slides fully on the lower frame. If this binds or does not fully fit correctly welding the next section to it will only make it harder to work correctly IMHO. Mill smooth, bastard and a with a safe edge (does not cut)...

Welding is more fun than painting a couple bedrooms........... Burned a couple sticks and roughed in. Fresh eyes to hit the low areas I missed. Got around to turning bolt denial pins, machined holes then welded them in place along with the filler welds for the lower frame and carrier...