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From the Berger website: "Prior to 2008, all of Berger Bullets’ BC’s were calculated using a computer prediction. Early in 2009, we began measuring BC’s with live fire testing. As a result, Berger’s BC’s were updated and G7 BC’s were also made available. This represented a dramatic...

It's definitely not Superformance powder. The data on Hornady's website has me wondering if it might be RL-17, but I don't have any onhand for comparison. http://www.hornady.com/support/downloads/load-data

Anyone know what powder Hornady uses in their 6mm Creedmoor factory loads? My scales indicate 40.3gr for the 108 ELD-M, and 41.3 for the 103 ELD-X. Velocity from my 22" barrel is ~2925 and 2975 fps respectively (which might increase as barrel breaks in). Powder does not appear to be H4350...

Perhaps old news, but Hornady has posted data on their website that apparently didn't make the latest manual. Check link below for 6mm Creedmoor data for 103gr ELD-X and 108gr ELD Match: http://www.hornady.com/support/downloads/load-data

Just be aware that the target dot reticle in the Comp Hunter scope is very thin, so it's quite faint in appearance, thus difficult to see in many terrains. It's why I got rid of mine (though I would consider another with a different reticle). I switched to the SWFA 6x, as its reticle works...

The Leupold FX-3 Competition Hunter 6x42mm is a good scope with adjustable objective. Weight is 15 oz. But I would recommend against the target dot reticle for hunting. I think other reticles are available through the custom shop...

I use the SWFA 6x on a 22 rimfire. Don't think I'd want more power in a fixed scope for hunting inside 100 yards.

If you like that style of sight, the Vortex AMG UH-1 might be worth consideration: http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/razor_amg_uh-1_red_dot

FWIW, I've done a lot of eastern woods hunting with a variety of setups, and feel that 1x on the low end is unnecessary unless you're shooting at driven game (moving targets). 2.5x is fine on the low end for most rifle hunting in the woods. I dial a 2.5-10x all the way down, but when using a...

One thing I dislike about the low power variables is the lack of parallax adjustment. I want the capability of making a longish shot even with a rifle primarily suited for short range. The lack of "focus" seems more limiting than low magnification. Something like the NF 2.5-10x42 serves as a...

You are correct. My brain was thinking ladder test for some reason.

I would start over and: *Skip the lead sled and use sandbags instead. *Shoot from a further distance, such as 300 yards or more. *Skip the crimp die unless previous testing has shown it to be beneficial in that particular rifle with that particular load.

After removing the scope to return, test the parallax before sending it back. If it works correctly, the problem could be in the mount as others have mentioned. And if it is, another scope of the same design might have the same problem if the same mount is used.

Not same brand, but I had an electronic keypad fail on a gun safe with the door locked shut. Got a replacement keypad, used my old code, and it worked. Since then, I bought an extra keypad for ~$30 as a backup in case it ever happens again. What I don't remember was whether I spoke with only...

FWIW, cutting a sunshade is easy to do. A Butler Creek cap will hide any imperfections.

18 with rifle-length gas is my preference. Criterion barrels of various lengths have served me well.

Bushnell is reportedly working on a slightly larger and more powerful version of the LRHS. http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-rifle-scopes/265804-another-lrhs-version-bushnell-4-5x-18x-moa-too.html

Same for me. I believe different targets in different lighting can have a slight effect on perceived zero. For example, shooting a black dot on white paper in the shade might show a click (or two) difference versus a bright orange glow dot in the sun. The rifle and ammo perform the same, but...

I suggest a mil (or moa) reticle with matching turrets over a ballistic reticle. With a ballistic reticle, you're either chasing it with load development, or confined to a particular load if you ever get your trajectory to match the reticle (and / or custom turret). With a mil reticle and mil...

I do something similar. After printing, I laminate it using tape to help resist moisture, then use double-sided tape to stick it inside the cap. After a spreadsheet is set up to print the correct size, it's easy to type in data for a different load and print a new card.