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I *specifically* am talking about the well-designed and well-built original BELGIAN made Browning Nomad / Challenger / Medalist guns. Absolutely top-drawer craftsmanship you will never see today...and the sweetest trigger you can imagine.

You can't discount the original Belgian made Browning Challenger. High quality construction of all steel..... sweet trigger... very accurate ( from the Nomad / Challenger / Medalist series). Grip angle is more Luger vs Colt, but that can be overcome.

Let me then come back to my original comment.....you're at v1.2. The (relatively heavy) barrel is unsupported for its final half-length. An earlier experiment by you showed the validity of tieing down the entire barrel length. For Fuglie....the next level of improvement then is v1.3....where...

Bear with me...as I'm still confused. If you're saying best *gun* results were with a fully clamped barrel....then my suggestion of a v1.3 has merit. The fact that different *ammo* creates different results....is more of an *ammo* question than a gun question..... right? Just tryin' to get this...

Barrels of different diameters/lengths will have different frequency responses.....so your experiment with the earlier skinnier barrel may have different results this time around. That said.....with your response of different tightness on the previous barrel.....doesn't your data say having...

For version v1.3 ..... go a bit more on the barrel hold-downs. Instead of 4 clamps on the barrel, use 8 clamps evenly spaced all the way to the end of the muzzle. Of course, would need a new barrel support / bedding that goes all the way forward.

Are you saying you already did the mod as in the article, but it continues to be a problem?

No doubt you have experience and data...but you still can't keep it civil and engage in a debate....huh?

Another way to say this..... maybe break-in is not necessary but a rough barrel will foul quicker making the gun tell you that much "Sooner" that it needs attention....whereas a smoothed barrel (by whatever process) will allow more shots through before it goes south. And this--> the "fouling"...

To note.... commercial Mauser 98 actions typically have a beveled front-edge of the extractor to allow more easy snap-over on a chambered round. The military Mausers don't have a beveled front edge but many have been modified to have that for exactly that reason.

Lowlight..... any reason why we can't keep this civil? You seem to be taking all this with a high-degree of emotion. ( Quote.." i have more rifles than you ever dreamed up, of a greater variety...". Is this really necessary?) We're all here to share thoughts, experiences, and viewpoints. If...

Furthermore.....here is an old post made by Gale McMillan. It basically says break-in's are not necessary and the "fad" developed early-on and makes life happy for replacement barrel makers. However, notice that there is a difference in viewpoint if we're talking production vs custom barrels...

If custom barrel makers were offering no "Added value".....then serious bench-rest shooters and Snipers would not opt for them and they'd be out of business....if they were THAT equal to factory barrels. Maybe my point was missed. I'm not saying the factory tubes are junk. They shoot fine. But...

You mean like this?----> Savage Mark II feeding prob. fixed - Long Range Hunting Online Magazine .....round off the bottom edge of the bolt face as indicated in the article.

I don't think even the best factory barrels are hand-lapped as most custom barrels are. Are you implying they are all the same, equally devoid of tight spots and equally devoid of machining marks? I don't think so as "custom" is just that....a extremely high-quality piece that cannot be...

No one seems to mention the faster lock-time of the 700 over the 70. An aid to accuracy. Plus....the Mauser-type extractor with controlled feed of the 70, is extremely important if the rifle was a battle rifle (as used by the Germans in WWII in the model 98), but somewhat less-so important to...

I read these kinds of threads all the time.... it's remarkable the number of different answers you get. That all said....here is one crucial point no one ever brings up when answering with their own favorite method (or more correctly....if a "break-in" is needed at all)---> - the point of...

Dry firing rimfires has been a well-known general point not to do. The idea being that it's a "rim" fire ('natch) and the firing pin can peen-over the edge of the chamber. That much is generally accepted. The use of the #4 wall anchors is a good idea and I've been doing that for years....last...

I miss a lot of your very good older posts that are now lost forever at the time of the switch-over........

Loweys bore guide ( Australia)..... nice unit.... locks in-place too... Home