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NSN= National stock Number

I'm usually around on the weekends

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Checking in

Dykem makes a hi spot bluing which i use to use for lapping and fitting while tool making might help. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

The only way holding the brass in the die or any metal in a die would have an effect, would be heat forming. Where you would wait until the metal cooled to a certain temperature before releasing it from the die. Just my experience those cheap dial indicators are not repeatable to .0005, just...

Lol, oh those pics are photo shopped just not the normal way they are photo shopped. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Or it was Dianne's cronies so she could push to ban all weapons in cali. For entertainment purposes of course Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

Just north of Edwards AFB base there is BLM land that you can easily get to 2 or 3 miles, just try to stick to shooting east to west, the land just south of the Cal city MX park is where I am talking about Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

To each his own I guess, it's just something I had a knack for dialing in odd parts in a 4 jaw I also spent every day doing it, where as you may do it once a month in this situation Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

The O.P was talking about doing this work with out a jig or making his own, that tells me he is probably doing a one off for himself. I just was throwing ideas out there to save him hours on making a fixture. There are a hundred different ways to do it, I'll go back in my hole. Sent from my...

I am trying to understand, as well as a machinist I am trying to offer my perspective if I had to do the job. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

You could even hold closer to the center of the action by using a block of alum to bridge the gap of the ejection port, nobody said the front of the action has to be flush with the jaws. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I would make adjustments by using a brass or aluminum rod to the back end of the action between the spaces of the jaws. Best case scenario would be hold the rear in the 4 jaw and use a steady rest for the front. I just see a mini 4 jaw in a 4 jaw when I see that jig in the original picture...

Even with a center drill in the end of the rod using a dead center to get it close, remove the tail stock, dead blow the last 2 thou and start making chips. Sorry I just learned in shops not to trust set screws and jigs when working tight tolerances... If this works for you guys more power too...

I understand the axis you are talking about, the one that is represented by the indicating rod totally on board. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

I always say they will get you close. But really it's up to you as the machinist to make a product that you feel is good so if you can fiddle with numbers to make a rounder hole or a smoother surface go for it Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

The alum shims will match the irregularities of the OD and as long as you indicate that shaft as true as you want a 4 jaw can manipulate a piece just about anyway you could think of Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

All you care about is that the bore of the receiver is running true and straight front to back? And you are only cutting the front inch or so of the receiver? Or do you want the OD true to the bore? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

After looking at his set-up on the site. Yes you can get that indicating shaft straight and concentric using just a 4 jaw Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk