I get that 1/10 MIL turrets equates to 10 "clicks" on the turret for 1 MIL of adjustment (unless I am mathing wrong). If I was using the MILS (in a FFP scope) to determine how far off I am from POA/POI and was, let's say, 3 MILS any direction then I would need 30 "clicks" on the appropriate turret in the correct direction to make the adjustment. Let's also assume I am zeroing at 100 yards. Is this correct? I am just getting into long range shooting and am referencing what I have heard and read (videos and forums). If someone spotting says the shooter needs "3 clicks up" then would that equate to 3/10 of a MIL (assuming 1/10 MIL turret)? Am I getting this somewhat right or am I way off the mark?
- Thread starter csireeves
- Start date
yes, you are correct. usually a good spotter will tell you your correction. instead of saying "3 clicks up" they will tell you ".3 up" but you are on the right path. if you miss by .5 mils then you adjust (or hold) .5 mils
You are correct - but I don't like it when anyone speaks in "clicks" or counts clicks. Too much room for confusion. If I look at my reticle an see that I'm off .3mil, I don't then think "3 clicks", I think .3 mil.
If you have a mil scope, you should be told to come up 3 tenths of a mil. I would then grab the turret and count 3 clicks but anything much beyond that, I will look at my turret and put the dial where it belongs. If I needed to come up a full mil, I woulnd't count 10 clicks. If I was at 3.1, I would put the dial at 4.1. This is why I prefer mils to MOA - decimal math is easier.
Now if I was in MOA and was at 10 1/2 and needed to come up 2 3/4 MOA, the math is not as quick and maybe that's where counting clicks comes from.
If you have a mil scope, you should be told to come up 3 tenths of a mil. I would then grab the turret and count 3 clicks but anything much beyond that, I will look at my turret and put the dial where it belongs. If I needed to come up a full mil, I woulnd't count 10 clicks. If I was at 3.1, I would put the dial at 4.1. This is why I prefer mils to MOA - decimal math is easier.
Now if I was in MOA and was at 10 1/2 and needed to come up 2 3/4 MOA, the math is not as quick and maybe that's where counting clicks comes from.
This^^
If you were 3 mils off you would call 3 mils rather than 30 or if you were 3/10ths say point 3 (.3)
Thanks guys. I appreciate the answers. I figured I right, but wanted to make sure before heading to the range tomorrow. This will be my first time using a MIL/MIL FFP scope. I do have another question. I believe most mid/higher end scopes are supposed to be zeroed (mechanical) from the factory. I am assuming that a mechanical zero would be near actual zero when mounted to a rifle with a 0 MOA rail. If using a 20 MOA rail and not changing anything on the scope, would the shots hit high at 100 yards? I'm assuming this because when "bore sighting" (comparing what I see through the scope and through the bore), the bore is on target and the scope is low. Leaving out all variables, about how high would the shots be at 100 yards?
That would depend on a number of other factors. Chief among them being the height of the center line of the scope above the centerline of the bore.
Do it the easy way. Start with about 4 feet of 3' wide butcher paper and nail it to your target frame with a 1" diameter target paster in the middle.
With the rifle on a bipod and a rear bag, get a good sight picture and squeeze the trigger.
Now, with the same sight picture and the gun held very steady, have a buddy turn your turrets till the crosshairs move to the bullet hole.
Fire another round.
Repeat as needed and you'll be right on the money in only a couple of shots.
Very important. Do not allow the gun to move while the turrets are being turned. I've done this literally 100s of times. Usually only takes 3 or 4 shots, depending on what I have to do with the rear bag.
Do it the easy way. Start with about 4 feet of 3' wide butcher paper and nail it to your target frame with a 1" diameter target paster in the middle.
With the rifle on a bipod and a rear bag, get a good sight picture and squeeze the trigger.
Now, with the same sight picture and the gun held very steady, have a buddy turn your turrets till the crosshairs move to the bullet hole.
Fire another round.
Repeat as needed and you'll be right on the money in only a couple of shots.
Very important. Do not allow the gun to move while the turrets are being turned. I've done this literally 100s of times. Usually only takes 3 or 4 shots, depending on what I have to do with the rear bag.
Counting clicks comes from iron sights - they're not always (correctly) marked, so sometimes you have no choice. A well marked scope is a beautiful thing.
Why not just read the ruler in front of his face instead of trying to hold the rifle perfectly still and dialing the scope.
Here is what I would do zero the rifle with the flat base. Mount the 20 MOA rail. Dial down 5.8 mils and fire a shot. If the POI is different than the POA then read the reticle and make your corrections.
Its only a tiny piece of the online training lesson, but the concept it really, really simple there is no reason to overcomplicate it.
You don't have to worry about height over bore, that that is just for software, to determine the trajectory. You can do the math using it to figure out some adjustments necessary for the scope, but why would you?
The reticle in your scopes is is a ruler calibrated to your turrets as well to your rifle. That reticle (ruler) is accuracy no matter the distance, doesn't matter if it is mils or MOA it works the same as long as your reading it correctly.
In this video around 2:45 I start to talk about 1 shot zeroing and how you do it. I demonstrate it by both holding the reticle and dialing the turrets. It's very simple and done on a plain white paper with just a single 1/2" dot on it to zero.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/20_vD9EPJ2w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
As I noted it's just a few short minutes of a 15+ Minute lesson, so there is some elements missing, but you should be able to understand the concept.
Don't over complicate it, it's not 1978, we have the tools to do it right and our understanding of the concepts are much better. (We are not consciously mixing units anymore like before)
You don't have to worry about height over bore, that that is just for software, to determine the trajectory. You can do the math using it to figure out some adjustments necessary for the scope, but why would you?
The reticle in your scopes is is a ruler calibrated to your turrets as well to your rifle. That reticle (ruler) is accuracy no matter the distance, doesn't matter if it is mils or MOA it works the same as long as your reading it correctly.
In this video around 2:45 I start to talk about 1 shot zeroing and how you do it. I demonstrate it by both holding the reticle and dialing the turrets. It's very simple and done on a plain white paper with just a single 1/2" dot on it to zero.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/20_vD9EPJ2w" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
As I noted it's just a few short minutes of a 15+ Minute lesson, so there is some elements missing, but you should be able to understand the concept.
Don't over complicate it, it's not 1978, we have the tools to do it right and our understanding of the concepts are much better. (We are not consciously mixing units anymore like before)
Thanks for the help. I made it out to the range today and was able to work on the zero. It took 3-4 shots to get it dialed in, but it was very windy. I did have some difficulty getting 4-5 casings extracted out of the 20 I fired. The rounds fed fine (I was only loading 1 at a time) and the bolt cycles freely. This was the first time this rifle was shot.
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