10/22 barrel question - free float or what the best option?

[hermosabeach]

I have an old 10/22 that has an aftermarket bull barrel and stock.

The paint on the stock is trashed and it's time to repaint the stock.

I know with a Centerfire, you want the barrel freefloated.

I'm wondering with the much smaller 10/22 alloy receiver, is it best to free float the barrel or is that too much stress on the receiver?

What's the best option?


Thanks

 

[6.5SH]

I have an old 10/22 that has an aftermarket bull barrel and stock.

The paint on the stock is trashed and it's time to repaint the stock.

I know with a Centerfire, you want the barrel freefloated.

I'm wondering with the much smaller 10/22 alloy receiver, is it best to free float the barrel or is that too much stress on the receiver?

What's the best option?


Thanks

From a stress standpoint not so much. There are other issues that can come into play depending on tolerance stacking such as the barrel pointing down so much you can't dial up enough to zero.

One of the common fixes for that issue is this:

https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ols/products/xn-gunsmither-1022-elevation-correcting-barrel-block-r6b32134b

There are a few other companies who make similar, this one is a bit unique in needing some filing on the barrel "hook".

Another tactic used back in the early 90's when the .920's were new was to bed the barrel and float the receiver.

I use a 22" 0.920" barrel with an older ~6 Oz tuner and the gunsmither block on a ~45 year old receiver

 

[hermosabeach]

Thank you for that. I found a couple of old threads on rimfire central with bedding procedures.

It feels like I need some OCD and spend some time making the gun happier.


I had heard about bedding the barrel and floating the action but it seems like it limits accuracy vs bedding the action or pillar bedding the action and letting the barrel float. Or sending the action off to have a rear tang installed as well.