15moa

[VOODOO...]

Hi All,
Long time viewer, first time poster.
Been looking at the Tikka T1X on and off for a little while now. Happen to be at my FFL and mention I like the Tikkas. Doesn't he pull out the model I like. The rest is history. Lol
I ordered the 15MOA base from Area 419. I will be shooting 100 yards with the gun. I see they have a 30MOA. Did I make the right choice?
Right now the trigger is 2lbs 13oz. I haven't adjusted it yet. Thinking about the lighter springs. This will be just a bench gun @ 100
Anything else I should do?
Thanks

 

[Hgrubbs22]

You’ll probably want to add some weight to it so it will be more stable on the bench. The 15 MOA will be more than enough for 100 yards. Even with lighter springs it will still be over #1 pull on the trigger. I have a Tikka and put it in a Boyds At One, added a pic rail for a bipod and use a rear bag. It shoots pretty decent groups, and the action is good. You should get some ARA targets, they are pretty fun trying to hit the bulls at 50 yards. What scope will you be using? I rotate between a Tract Toric 4.5-30, Razor G3 6-36, and a Steiner T6Xi 5-30. I just got a Vector Minotaur 10-50, working on a benchrest type setup.

 

[VOODOO...]

I appreciate the reply. My gun came with the UPR stock. I will see what I can do about adding weight. Good idea.
Glad to hear I picked the right base. Turned my trigger down to 1lb 13oz. It's a nice trigger.
I like those targets.
You have some nice scopes. I bought a used Weaver t34 36x36. That's not a beginners scope lol. Had trouble staying in the eye box.
I now have a Leupold 3x9x40? Nice at 50 yards but lacking for me at 100. Do you use a small black dot center?
I was going to build out a 10/22 but the stars aligned and ended up with the Tikka.

 

[DFOOSKING]

You only need a canted rail if the scope you use doesn't have enough useable internal travel to dial to the distances you wish to shoot.

Long story short.....100yds is nothing. The most basic scope made could likely handle that unless some total POS Chinese made pile of crap. A good modest target scope would likely even have the travel to even dial to 200yds with .22lr without the added help of the biased rail.

Some target scope users would want the 30 MOA rail if they wanted to help maximize the use of the increased internal travel their targets tend to have to reach distances of say 300yds or more.

If you absolutely have zero need to shoot farther than 100yds....your totally fine. But many eventually decide they want to push farther and/or upgrade equipment. Then getting the 30 MOA would be beneficial. Conversely, if you had a very simple hunting scope with far far less internal travel....the 30 MOA could actually be a detriment.

Canted rails do not give scopes more travel. They only give access to the un-used travel below your zero. If you have only 10 MOA below your zero....the 30 rail ends up placing your 50yd zero below where you can physically dial to. So it will force you to inital zero the rifle further out than the ideal 50yds.

 

[6.5SH]

FWIW I have a 15 MOA rail on the T1x I use for Silhouette and Benchrest. The Athlon 10-40x BTR I use only has 45 MOA of elevation, so at 100 meters it was near the end of the adjustment, so less windage adjustment and less clarity where it is being used. The 15 MOA allowed it to be closer to the mechanical center where it was desired in this case.

For the other T1x I used for NRL22/X etc I used a 30 MOA rail, but that scope had 32 MIL (108 MOA) of elevation as I wanted to be able to dial out as far as possible. I still had a 35 yard zero with it.

 

[TubbyT223]

When I was running my T1x in PRS I had a 15 moa rail and strike eagle 5-25. Went out to 350 no problem.