Re: 1911 aluminum/lightweight frame ?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Kenda</div><div class="ubbcode-body">We ran across several of them a few years ago. Bought a group and built up two pistols. One was a dedicated 22 the other a 45. Both ran good and were a lot lighter, but the 45 frame developed a crack at the slide stop hole after about 2k rounds. Honestly had been expecting some peening or galling, and we were suprised by the crack. We ran recoil buffers and all, but the group opinion was that it was the return to battery shock that caused the crack, not the recoil. My husband then shot it to failure and sure enough the crack travelled all the way through the frame and the dust cover portion was moved FORWARD, distorting the trigger guard.
Don't recall the maker on the frames, but he got them from the same guy we got all our doublestar stuff from. As 22's they were awesome.
Just our experiences, YMMV. </div></div>
Kenda....did these frames still have the bridge across the top of the slide stop hole by the rails ? if they did, the crack usually starts there and it seems as though vibration from firing/return to battery shock will make it continue down to the slide stop pin hole. I always cut that bridge out when working on aluminum framed 1911's. I also cut the bridge out on steel framed guns. Colt stopped leaving the bridge in awhile back, after many cracked frame failures. I always smooth up(polish inside) the lower part of the slide stop cut out by the rails, and check for cracks. I've never tested one to failure though, it would take away from my ammo fort.