Gunsmithing .223 future build questions

[mark5pt56]

I'm in the planning stage of this and want to make sure I have the correct path. Currently have a Tikka Varmint and happy with it, just looking at another .223 bolt. Why? have an AT in 6.5cm and max range around here is 628 unless I pay close to 100 a day and drive 2 hours. Anyhow, thinking on doing a shorter rifle, maybe 18" and custom, just for fun.

I've been reading and it appears most are happy with the Impact action and looks like I will go that route. So below are questions to help nail it down

When I get a prefit barrel, do I need to just need to use a barrel vise and action wrench to torque to a specific value? No head spacing?

Trigger Tech-simply pin onto the receiver?

Chassis - As I understand, 700 footprint, choose the chassis and bolt/torque in? No modifications (only saw the KRG needed that) more than likely the MdT ESS or might do the AI AX chassis. Any mods to the barrel lug on either?

Barrel - Most likely Bartlein MTU. No suppressor, debating threads or not?

I was looking at the Origin as I could change bolt heads and barrel. Can I simply do the same with the Impact with a complete bolt change?

Thanks for the input, this will take some time money wise.

Mark

 

[Olen_4504]

You get a pre-fit barrel from a good smith (plenty to choose from) for your impact. it doesn't hurt to check your headspace. but the tolerances are exact enough on the impacts it shouldn't be a worry.

If you are only going to shoot .223 - i'd contact impact and order a .223 bolt/action. if you ordered a regular .308 bolt/action it's another $450 for a .223 bolt.


the origin is a decent option if you want to save some coin. then yeah you can just swap heads.

 

[Krob95]

So as far as I know the shouldered prefits just torque into the action but it wouldn’t hurt to have a set of go/no go gauges for the caliber your getting to make sure everything is good.

The TT trigger will pin into the trigger hanger (I used the -0- one for my diamond) and then the trigger hanger is held on with two screws.

Im running a pre 14 style aiax chassis on mine and you have to file down the points where the recoil lug in the action butts up to the chassis. And you’ll have to remove a little material for the front of the trigger hanger to clear. It took me 5 minutes with a dremel and I had everything together.

If you wanted to switch between 308 and 223 you would need two bolts for the corresponding bolt faces. But the barrel change is the same with a torque wrench, action wrench, and barrel vise.

 

[lintond]

How do you like your Tikka Varmint? I have one on order. Anything you’d change or upgrade right away?

 

[mark5pt56]

How do you like your Tikka Varmint? I have one on order. Anything you’d change or upgrade right away?

I can't think of anything On the stock rifle. I do have in a chassis though, MPA Lite.