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.224 Valkyrie From Tikka T3x .223

snbyiggidy1

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 15, 2018
329
322
Brownsville, Oregon
After much research and planning I have decided to take the plunge. Purchased a Tikka T3x Lite in .223. The plan is as follows.

Barrel: Remove the factory barrel and replace with a pre-fit chambered in .224 Valkyrie. Undecided as yet but looking at Carbonsix, McGowen, or Preferred barrel. Open to suggestions. Plan is to do a 1:7 twist 24 inch in whichever I end up deciding to go with.

Bolt: Having my gunsmith open the bolt face from 0.384 to 0.422 to accept the Valkyrie cases. From what I can tell the ejector is fine. The extractor may take some minor shimming to make it work reliably. Work in progress on that once I get the bolt back from my smith.

Trigger: sticking with the stock Tikka with the YoDave spring. Have that in my other Tikka and love it.

Magazines: Going to try a .223 AICS mags and also a MDT Metal AICS pattern for 6br. Will see what works the best.

Chassis: Pretty much decided to try a KRG Bravo out. My other Tikka sits in an MPA BA Chassis which I really like but was hoping to find a cheaper option that might be more well rounded for precision and field use.

Should be fun. Looking forward to the build. Will post up pics as things start to come together. Any advice is welcome. Especially related to the barrel change. Have read lots on this and see mixed reviews on getting this done. Can always have my gunsmith remove it but would love to do it myself. That way when my other Tikka is ready for a new barrel I can do that one too
 
Just go 223AI

Same performance. Better brass. Easier with mags. More data. Don't need to open up bolt.

Yes I have seen the arguments for that on several other posts. Thing is I am already set up for .224 Valkyrie. Plus who doesn’t like a challenge. Lol. I am not afraid of the bolt work and won’t have to invest in more reloading equipment. If I was starting from scratch I would give .223 AI a more serious look for sure. ?
Just go 223AI
 
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Barrel advice anyone? Looking for thoughts between a carbonsix or preferred barrel blanks barrel? Not overly concerned about the weight difference. More I am wondering about quality and accuracy between the two and is the double the cost worth it for a carbon barrel?
 
My friend just spun up a Hart 1-7 this morning. I'll let you know how it does in a week or two. Going to try several variants of heavy bullets. 75 - 95 Sierras is where we're starting. Might try other brands depending on how things go.
 
I would skip the carbon. I have a 1-7 twist Valkyrie m24 contour and love shooting it. (curtis action, not tikka but same concept)

Since I reload, I got the barrel from Keystone Accuracy as John has a long throated Valkyrie reamer (.115 freebore). Not many 'smiths offer that option. Allows you to load the 88 Hornady bullet longer plus helps with feeding.

My two cents.
 
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My friend just spun up a Hart 1-7 this morning. I'll let you know how it does in a week or two. Going to try several variants of heavy bullets. 75 - 95 Sierras is where we're starting. Might try other brands depending on how things go.

that was the twist I was looking at. I have some 88 Hornady ELDM to start with. Will work out from there.


I would skip the carbon. I have a 1-7 twist Valkyrie m24 contour and love shooting it. (curtis action, not tikka but same concept)

Since I reload, I got the barrel from Keystone Accuracy as John has a long throated Valkyrie reamer (.115 freebore). Not many 'smiths offer that option. Allows you to load the 88 Hornady bullet longer plus helps with feeding.

My two cents.

I reload also and that is interesting information. Will have to keep that in mind as I shop. Won’t be spending the extra on a carbon barrel. Between your comment and others I don’t think it is worth it.
 
I would skip the carbon. I have a 1-7 twist Valkyrie m24 contour and love shooting it. (curtis action, not tikka but same concept)

Since I reload, I got the barrel from Keystone Accuracy as John has a long throated Valkyrie reamer (.115 freebore). Not many 'smiths offer that option. Allows you to load the 88 Hornady bullet longer plus helps with feeding.

My two cents.

Thinking about a valkyrie barrel for my axiom.

What magazine and chassis or stock are you using?
 
I would skip the carbon. I have a 1-7 twist Valkyrie m24 contour and love shooting it. (curtis action, not tikka but same concept)

Since I reload, I got the barrel from Keystone Accuracy as John has a long throated Valkyrie reamer (.115 freebore). Not many 'smiths offer that option. Allows you to load the 88 Hornady bullet longer plus helps with feeding.

My two cents.

Any smith worth a shit should be able to use a throat reamer to get a longer freebore than a standard 224val reamer.
 
I am running an MPA chassis & AICS mag w/spacer. Adjusted the feed lips inward to account for the smaller body vs the .308

@6brshooter- or I could choose a known gunsmith that has what I want, knows why I want it and no questions asked.
 
I am running an MPA chassis & AICS mag w/spacer. Adjusted the feed lips inward to account for the smaller body vs the .308

@6brshooter- or I could choose a known gunsmith that has what I want, knows why I want it and no questions asked.

Yeah, because no known gunsmiths have throat reamers. You implied that guy was the only one with a .115 freebore, I was just saying that's not as huge a constraint as you believe. 223ai or 22 creed is the correct answer, 224 makes sense in ar15. Once you are out of that platform, what's the draw. Hope your smith doesnt botch the bolt face, tikka bolts are hard to come by.
 
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I am running an MPA chassis & AICS mag w/spacer. Adjusted the feed lips inward to account for the smaller body vs the .308

@6brshooter- or I could choose a known gunsmith that has what I want, knows why I want it and no questions asked.

Thanks

I'm using a MPA chassis also. What spacer kit are you using?
 
Yeah, because no known gunsmiths have throat reamers. You implied that guy was the only one with a .115 freebore, I was just saying that's not as huge a constraint as you believe. 223ai or 22 creed is the correct answer, 224 makes sense in ar15. Once you are out of that platform, what's the draw. Hope your smith doesnt botch the bolt face, tikka bolts are hard to come by.

I don’t believe 223ai or 22 Creedmoor are anymore a correct answer than anything else. Actually there really isn’t a correct answer since there was no question just another option out there like so many other cartridges that have come before. I do find it funny you stating that outside the AR15 platform it doesn’t make sense. Maybe you should check out the video lowlight just recently released of the .224 Valkyrie out to 2112 yards. He hits on several plus point to the round and how it is a viable long range option in a “bolt gun”. And finally I totally hope my smith doesn’t mess up my bolt also however if he does guess it is my loss. Will have to decide at that point if I try and find another .223 bolt which isn’t the easiest as you stated or can easily get one of these and do something different. Guess time will tell. And I hope it all works out which I am confident it will and will be great as others have had good success with this idea.

 
I am running an MPA chassis & AICS mag w/spacer. Adjusted the feed lips inward to account for the smaller body vs the .308

@6brshooter- or I could choose a known gunsmith that has what I want, knows why I want it and no questions asked.

Great information. I really like my MPA chassis on my other rifle. Keep thinking I should just get a second one and make both rifles the same as far as fit and feel go.
 
This is what I did. I’ve got 2 mpa chassis and really like them.

I did get a mdt acc for my tikka during the mdt sale at Christmas. I’m really liking it as well.

My daughter has taken it and put it on her t1x for now. She like the acc better because she can move the grip forward to better suit her small hands.
 
Maybe it's not a bad idea on swappable bolt face action, like bighorn or arc. If "I" was looking at a factory action, especially tikka, I'd be leary of it. I hope it works out, in fact the bolt face opening should be simple, ejector should be fine. It will just be a matter of getting extractor lined and and mags feeding good. I dont think the valk is bad, and its probably not a bad choice, but just seems like alot of trouble on something like a tikka, imho. Good luck with the project.
 
Maybe it's not a bad idea on swappable bolt face action, like bighorn or arc. If "I" was looking at a factory action, especially tikka, I'd be leary of it. I hope it works out, in fact the bolt face opening should be simple, ejector should be fine. It will just be a matter of getting extractor lined and and mags feeding good. I dont think the valk is bad, and its probably not a bad choice, but just seems like alot of trouble on something like a tikka, imho. Good luck with the project.

Bighorn is definitely not a bad idea. I had considered doing that also. Almost purchased an Origin action but I really like the Tikka so thought why not. Guess time will tell
 
So the real big question I have now is freebore? How much? I can get my barrel custom reamed to my specification but how
Much do I want? If the normal is for the standard max col of 2.260 how much more am I looking for? I am going with a preferred fixed shoulder barrel. They said to just send in some dummy rounds and they can match to that. Any thoughts or ideas beyond the .115 from above?
 
If the normal is for the standard max col of 2.260 how much more am I looking for?
2.260 is the max ar15 mag length, thats all. But that pretty much handicaps everything else. In my bolt with 223 aics mags I can go up to 2.550. If using a 308 aics mag you can get to 2.9 something.

So basically, what mag are you planning on actually getting the valk round to feed from and what is the max length allowed by that mag? If its long and you reload go for the longer freebore. If your mag limits you or you want to shoot facotry ammo go for the shorter.
 
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When I had my smith cut a longer freebore on a 243ai, he started with his only 243ai reamer which was for varmint bullets. I had loaded a dummy up with a 105hybrid set where bottom edge of bearing surface was at nk/shoulder junction. I also had made a hornady case gage from a 243ai piece of brass. I was there when he cut chamber, I measured where bullet was seated in case @ at varmint freebore. I subtracted that number from my desired length. He ran the throat reamer in that amount. It was close to what I wanted, maybe .005 +/- what I had as ideal. Good enough for the girls I run with. That's easy if your Smith is 5miles away from you. In a bolt gun I'd want as much case capacity and as long as you can get it.
 
First of all: you do you. Your rifle, your choice.

Not bashing you or your idea, but I don’t see the draw to this one.

As stated above, .224V’s greatest value is in an AR-15. They still perform well in bolt guns, it’s just not as much of an advantage over .223/ai since OAL is no longer a factor in a bolt gun.

Tikka actions are great, but I’m not sure that would be my first choice for .224V, which is essentially a mini action cartridge. The Tikka on the other hand is a long action receiver. I’m sure it’ll run just fine, just doesn’t seem to be the most efficient compared to using say a Model 7 or Howa mini.

Again, if this is what you want, go for it.
 
I put up a video on the YouTube about the beginnings of my build. I went with a keystone accuracy 224 with .115 freebore. This is in an origin. They have a sale on till the 17th putting a button barrel at $400 all said and done. If you're doing a bolt gun and plan to load you might as well get the longer freebore. Get a decent Smith not just the cheapest.

Good luck man!
 
The 7 twist grouped the 88gr really well. 1/2 inch 5 shot groups with all the loads we took out Sunday. We're going to try heavier bullets next weekend.
 
Project has begun. Tikka came home today. Installed the YoDave trigger spring, optics rail, replacement bolt handle, and test fit the scope and
Mount. Had some amazing help at the gun bench today also. Now just waiting on new barrel, figuring out what chassis, and getting the bolt face opened up.
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Chassis/stock decision made. Decided to order a Manners PRS1TK in a custom color. Plan is to move my current CTR from its MPA chassis and put it in the manners. Putting the new .224 Valkyrie in the MPA. Wanted something more traditional but still very PRs functional. Will see what I think about that decision in about 8 months. Lead times look long.
 
I did just that, opened up the bolt face and bought my own .224 Valkyrie reamer. This was a hammer at 400yds. I ended up selling it as during the build, I bought a barreled Bighorn .223 by Patriot Valley. Wasn't quite enough of a gain with the Valk. so when I was putting together my guns for prairie dogs, I didn't see the need for it. Now if Lapua was to make brass, then I think you can really see the spread widen over a .223.
 
snbyiggidy1, so cool of you to do the build together with your adorable child....awesome photo

I love when she wants to come out and hang. Doesn’t last long usually but I take what I can get. Hope to transition slowly to shooting with her. Something we can do together. She can show her old man how it’s really done some day. ?
 
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Project is finally moving forward again. Barrel arrived today from Preferred Barrel Blanks. Looks very nice. Will be dropping bolt off soon for bolt work. Hope to get to the barrel install soon. Chassis should be here by end of the month at the latest.
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can't wait to hear how it turns out....and especially how it compares to your other rifle.
 
Finally was able to get to this project after several weeks of house remodeling and yard projects. After much reading here on the hide I purchased a barrel vise and a vise mount for my truck hitch. Mounted all that up and started working on getting the factory tikka barrel off. Took a couple tries to get the vise tight enough to not allow the barrel to spin in the vise which did cause a little rub mark on the factory barrel. Once I got that sorted a couple hits with a heavy mallet and the action was off. The shouldered Preferred Barrel Blank barrel fit perfect. Unfortunately I don’t have the bolt for this action currently as it is at the gun smith having the bolt face opened. I did try my go no go gauges with my 6.5 bolt which appears to show all is well Will test it again when the correct bolt returns. If all is well I will just be waiting on the MPA chassis to arrive which was ordered almost two months ago so should be soon. Then off to the range. Between now and then I guess I will start some loading for load development so I have something to start with.
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Time to check in again. Today my MPA chassis arrived so it was time to mount up the action and scope. I stole my Sig Tango 6 off my current 6.5 and will be looking for a replacement soon for that rifle. Action mounted up perfect as expected and scope has been bore sighted as of now. Waiting on my bolt to return from the gunsmith. As soon as it comes home it will be off to the range. Loading up some test ammo while waiting.
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Picked up the finished bolt this morning from my gunsmith. It looks great and a perfect fit.
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Took a pair of needle nose pliers and modified them for use with extractor removal and install. Extractor went back in with no problems. Ejector pin was no issue either. I had read different opinions on the extractor position after opening the bolt face. Some saying it needed to be shimmed and others who say no. Decided to not and see how it goes first. Why add something that isn’t needed.
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Bolt handle and firing pin back together with no issues.
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Used my new set of go/no go/field gauges to check headspace and it looks good. Used a couple dummy rounds to test cycling/feeding and that looks good so far. So now it is time to go shoot. Loaded up some basic loads to do some test shots. Will use these to make sure everything functions ok and make sure the magnetospeed picks up velocities correctly then will start load development.
 
I finally got the Valkyrie to the range and shot it for the first time today. Figured I would send along some data so far. Based on having added free bore I have found the lands to be at 1.845 using the Hornady headspace gauge. I started with some test rounds seated at 1.830 using 24.8 grains +\-CFE223 I just used a dipper to keep it simple as I just wanted to test function. The 1.830 seating depth equals a COAL of 2.385. Below I will list some data for those ten rounds which are not as consistent as I want or will be once I start the real load development. The best news is that even given the larger SD it shot 1/2 moa no problem. Will be doing some velocity node testing soon then work on seating depth. Looks very promising so far. I was a little nervous to be honest thinking I was going to find out I made a big mistake but those feelings are gone. Magazines fed perfect. Rifle functioned great. Preferred Barrel Blanks Barrel looks good and looks to shoot. Excited to see how it really does with precision loads.

Ten rounds Data

Max 2737
Min 2636
E.S. 101
Avg.2712
SD. 32
 
Testing continues. I am very happy with the rifle. Have a tested several powders and have returned back to CFE223. Latest data looks great. Will be at the range next week to test some seating depths and see what the rifle likes. With single digit SD loads I am very hopeful. Here is the last set of data collected. Load date is Hornady brass, 88g Hornady ELD Match bullets, CCI benchrest small rifle primers, with 26.1g CFE-223.

Max Velocity 2784
Min Velocity 2762
E.S. 22
Ave Velocity 2776
S.D. 7.61
 
Testing continues. I am very happy with the rifle. Have a tested several powders and have returned back to CFE223. Latest data looks great. Will be at the range next week to test some seating depths and see what the rifle likes. With single digit SD loads I am very hopeful. Here is the last set of data collected. Load date is Hornady brass, 88g Hornady ELD Match bullets, CCI benchrest small rifle primers, with 26.1g CFE-223.

Max Velocity 2784
Min Velocity 2762
E.S. 22
Ave Velocity 2776
S.D. 7.61
I love the build! I'd love to see more pictures of it