24 heavy to 16 heavy?
- Thread starter rooster2/16
- Start date
Barrel length has virtually ZERO to do with accuracy, but what you will loose (to varying degrees) will be muzzle velocity and, therefore, terminal performance (less energy, shorter max effective range, etc.). For ~300yds and in...shouldn't be an issue.
If you are satisfied with the performance of your existing barrel and you want to save some costs/expense (new gas system for mid- or carbine-length, possibly a new handguard, etc.) you might consider just have your existing 24" tube cut down to an 18" tube (shortest I'd recommend going with a rifle-length gas system) and recrowned by a competent smith. I've had Steve and the guys at ADCO do this for me a few times over the years and its an alternative worth considering. They'll do a cut/crown for you for only $30 + return S&H or a cut/concentric thread/crown for $65 + return S&H. Turn-around is usually ~2weeks. See here: https://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/
If you are satisfied with the performance of your existing barrel and you want to save some costs/expense (new gas system for mid- or carbine-length, possibly a new handguard, etc.) you might consider just have your existing 24" tube cut down to an 18" tube (shortest I'd recommend going with a rifle-length gas system) and recrowned by a competent smith. I've had Steve and the guys at ADCO do this for me a few times over the years and its an alternative worth considering. They'll do a cut/crown for you for only $30 + return S&H or a cut/concentric thread/crown for $65 + return S&H. Turn-around is usually ~2weeks. See here: https://www.adcofirearms.com/shopservices/
Because the gas system is too long. If you go any shorter the gas impulse will be too short and the gun won't function reliably(because the gas port is too close to the end of the barrel). That's why he said with a "rifle" length system you can only go as short as 18"
Why a bull barrel at all? Not really necessary on a hunting rifle? Unless you're wacking pdogs by the dozen in a short time.
You have a valid point. I originally built it for coyotes but moved it to a hunting rifle after my sps fell in the river a couple years ago(long story).
I'm not saying a lighter barrel isn't a good idea. But it's more expensive, and similar time at a Smith. If it was me, I'd cut down what you have to 18". Then see if it's still too front heavy.
This isn't bad advice. Actually, if you are opting to send it in to ADCO as I posted above, Steve and Co. can also turn down your existing barrel to a new contour and/or flute your barrel for you if you want more weight reduction. You just have to be careful how far you go with an existing factory tube. At some point in cost, you'll be throwing good money after bad to modify your existing, used barrel versus just buying a new one in the specific length, profile, etc. that you may want in the long run. Only you can decide what the pucker factor is for this particular project/barrel/etc., but the reprofiling/fluting/etc. is an option. Steve charges ~$100 for a full contour job (the entire barrel both in front of the gas block and behind) and fluting usually starts ~$100 and goes up to ~$150 depending on what all you want done.
Big thanks guys!!!! Y'all have given me allot to think about. Looks like ADCO is gonna be the ones to get the job. Cut to 18 and flute!!!!
I have been thinking of getting a more accurate barrel for my Colt LE6920 M4. I thought that if I bought this DCM barrel with the bull part about 12 inches then reduces diameter to the same as service rifle. This should shift more weight rearward compared to a bull barrel that extends to the muzzle which get the rifles balance better. What do you guys think. The bull barrels that extend to the muzzle makes the rifle more front heavy.
Attachments
Last edited:
