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260 build considerations

buckskin52

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 13, 2009
436
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42
western PA
surgeon action and bottom metal is on the way, schneider barrel is in the safe as well as the mcmillan A4. Any considerations I should think about before moving forward. I was debating using a custom reamer of a fellow hide member that would allow me to shoot 130 bergers at aics mag length. I do like the bergers and would like some feed back from other members. My local smith only has a standard 260 reamer, he does great work though. I would be staying in the 130 gr and up category. Any input is greatly appreciated.
thanks
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Just keep in mind that if the rounds really are at mag length now, accuracy could degrade as the lands erode.

For this reason I stick with tangent ogive bullets now. You *might* want to reconsider and look at reamers that will support the 139 Scenar, 142 SMK and the 140 BTHP (perhaps his will... but you need to do the math. Typically a .090"-.100 throat should be GTG). All excellent bullets with a "set it and forget it" COAL. Also, if you're going to shoot Lapua brass, make sure the neck dim. is .298".

John
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Thanks for the input John. I would imagine a standard 260 reamer would do that correct? I am shooting lapua brass
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: blaster7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for the input John. I would imagine a standard 260 reamer would do that correct? I am shooting lapua brass </div></div>

Standard 260 reamer will be too long with 130 and 140 VLDs. If you going to run VLD you will need a short reamer.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

IIRC, the throat on my .260 is .100". I can run 140 VLD's to the lands, *if* I have a modified AICS (front plate removed) or Alpha Type II. If you run std. AICS mags. or are concerned about throat erosion, you'll need a shorter throat as 264charlie pointed out. The question remains whether your action will actually feed those long rounds. Lot's to consider here.

For what it's worth, I can run 139 Scenars or 140 BTHP's to the lands from a standard AICS magazine and never have any feeding issues and have the same accuracy as the Bergers. The 140 BTHP's are nearly 1/2 the cost and give up about .3 mil in elevation at 1000 and maybe a .1 mil of wind. VLD's just didn't pencil in the long run for me. But I know a lot of guys who swear by 130's at 2950 fps. It all depends on what you want, and I want reliable, repeatable and low maintenance.

John
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just keep in mind that if the rounds really are at mag length now, accuracy could degrade as the lands erode.

For this reason I stick with tangent ogive bullets now. You *might* want to reconsider and look at reamers that will support the 139 Scenar, 142 SMK and the 140 BTHP (perhaps his will... but you need to do the math. Typically a .090"-.100 throat should be GTG). All excellent bullets with a "set it and forget it" COAL. Also, if you're going to shoot Lapua brass, make sure the neck dim. is .298".

John </div></div>
good info... VLD's are no good in a SA if your planning on running em in the mag (with my stick)... BUT, I just got a box of 140 hybrids, anyone test these?
 
Re: 260 build considerations

I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer?
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Skinney,

I had some of the first Hybrids for testing, but I'm pretty sure there were no changes going to production.

They have a really long ogive. If VLD's are marginal in your setup, these will be unworkable (if you normally load to the lands) unless you set them back and jump them. That's what I had to do, but I have a Tikka action.

I was jumping mine .050" or .060" and got mixed results, but I didn't spend a lot of time working up loads... and that was part of the reason I stopped. The Scenars and BTHP's shoot lights out no matter how far I jump them or how much powder I put underneath them. The Hybrids were more hit and miss in my rig, and at twice the cost of the BTHP's...

To get the best performance from these, I think you're going to have to run a LA. They definitely show promise. You *can* stuff them into a SA, but you'll get down into the powder column in a .260. 6.5 CM might be better.

John
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer? </div></div>

A "normal", or SAAMI chamber has a .115" throat. My .260 is .100". My current 140 BTHP's (which are *VERY* similar to the Scenar) are right at the front plate of the unmodified AICS magazine at .005" off the lands. A 140 AMAX or 142 SMK would need to be jumped to fit.

With the SAAMI reamer, you would either need to have the front plate removed, run Alpha II's or jump them.

John
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer? </div></div>

A "normal", or SAAMI chamber has a .115" throat. My .260 is .100". My current 140 BTHP's (which are *VERY* similar to the Scenar) are right at the front plate of the unmodified AICS magazine at .005" off the lands. A 140 AMAX or 142 SMK would need to be jumped to fit.

With the SAAMI reamer, you would either need to have the front plate removed, run Alpha II's or jump them.

John </div></div>

Thanks, i am trying to figure out what I need to request being done for my first custom build, going with GAP i think. My intentions are purely a 600-1,000yard bench rest/steel ringing gun, maybe some F-Class, but never any real field competitions. I know I am going to use Lapua brass exclusively, i guess i need to pre-determine which bullet i want to use as well. I dont think i am going to use VLDs, i want to stick in the 140 +/-2 weight range area.

So if my plan was to run Lapua Brass, with 140AMAX or 142SMKs (maybe dabble with some 139 Scenars), what do I need to request? Which reamer? My current plan was to go with a McMillian A4/A5 stock, hopefully a badger bottom metal.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Gap's .260 reamer will work great. Just tell them you want a .260 and order some alpha mags
 
Re: 260 build considerations

forget about the bergers. like said above, for half the cost buy the hornady BTHP. I shoot them and they shoot great and still hit targets all the way out to 1400 at the hide cup.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer? </div></div>

A "normal", or SAAMI chamber has a .115" throat. My .260 is .100". My current 140 BTHP's (which are *VERY* similar to the Scenar) are right at the front plate of the unmodified AICS magazine at .005" off the lands. A 140 AMAX or 142 SMK would need to be jumped to fit.

With the SAAMI reamer, you would either need to have the front plate removed, run Alpha II's or jump them.

John </div></div>

Thanks, i am trying to figure out what I need to request being done for my first custom build, going with GAP i think. My intentions are purely a 600-1,000yard bench rest/steel ringing gun, maybe some F-Class, but never any real field competitions. I know I am going to use Lapua brass exclusively, i guess i need to pre-determine which bullet i want to use as well. I dont think i am going to use VLDs, i want to stick in the 140 +/-2 weight range area.

So if my plan was to run Lapua Brass, with 140AMAX or 142SMKs (maybe dabble with some 139 Scenars), what do I need to request? Which reamer? My current plan was to go with a McMillian A4/A5 stock, hopefully a badger bottom metal. </div></div>

John's recommendation for a 260 reamer is spot on. I use a 260 Tac Match reamer from PT&G with a .098 freebore and a .298 neck for running Lapua brass. This will give you about .003 - .004 clearance on your unturned necks. The .098 freebore will allow your 139's or 142's to extend out close to the end of your AICS mag box and have an optimum jump of .005-.015 to your lands.

I've won many tactical matches with this reamer configuration.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer? </div></div>

A "normal", or SAAMI chamber has a .115" throat. My .260 is .100". My current 140 BTHP's (which are *VERY* similar to the Scenar) are right at the front plate of the unmodified AICS magazine at .005" off the lands. A 140 AMAX or 142 SMK would need to be jumped to fit.

With the SAAMI reamer, you would either need to have the front plate removed, run Alpha II's or jump them.

John </div></div>

Thanks, i am trying to figure out what I need to request being done for my first custom build, going with GAP i think. My intentions are purely a 600-1,000yard bench rest/steel ringing gun, maybe some F-Class, but never any real field competitions. I know I am going to use Lapua brass exclusively, i guess i need to pre-determine which bullet i want to use as well. I dont think i am going to use VLDs, i want to stick in the 140 +/-2 weight range area.

So if my plan was to run Lapua Brass, with 140AMAX or 142SMKs (maybe dabble with some 139 Scenars), what do I need to request? Which reamer? My current plan was to go with a McMillian A4/A5 stock, hopefully a badger bottom metal. </div></div>

After reading your post a little closer about wanting to build a designated 600/1000 yard bench rest rifle or F-Class open rifle, I'd stay away from the 260. There are better calibers than the 260 for that game, since you said that you won't be shooting any field competitions.

You might want to consider a 284 Shehane and run high BC bullets for that game. If you are going to single feed them you can get away with a short action and run any bullet that you want that will give you the optimum freebore.

If you are going plink around with it and intend to run a short action with mag boxes, then you'll be limited to the 160 gr class bullets and run the 180's for single feeding them. The 180's might not shoot as well if you get the freebore cut too shallow and force but the bullet past the neck/shoulder junction.

Just something to think about if you are building it for a designated game or multi purpose.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Animal</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jrob300</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: REL1203</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am in a similar position as the OP, from my understanding, the 139 Lapua, 140 SMK, 142 SMK, 140 A-max are the best, and those all fit with normal .260 reamer right? Can all be loaded in standard mag length ok with that reamer? </div></div>

A "normal", or SAAMI chamber has a .115" throat. My .260 is .100". My current 140 BTHP's (which are *VERY* similar to the Scenar) are right at the front plate of the unmodified AICS magazine at .005" off the lands. A 140 AMAX or 142 SMK would need to be jumped to fit.

With the SAAMI reamer, you would either need to have the front plate removed, run Alpha II's or jump them.

John </div></div>

Thanks, i am trying to figure out what I need to request being done for my first custom build, going with GAP i think. My intentions are purely a 600-1,000yard bench rest/steel ringing gun, maybe some F-Class, but never any real field competitions. I know I am going to use Lapua brass exclusively, i guess i need to pre-determine which bullet i want to use as well. I dont think i am going to use VLDs, i want to stick in the 140 +/-2 weight range area.

So if my plan was to run Lapua Brass, with 140AMAX or 142SMKs (maybe dabble with some 139 Scenars), what do I need to request? Which reamer? My current plan was to go with a McMillian A4/A5 stock, hopefully a badger bottom metal. </div></div>

After reading your post a little closer about wanting to build a designated 600/1000 yard bench rest rifle or F-Class open rifle, I'd stay away from the 260. There are better calibers than the 260 for that game, since you said that you won't be shooting any field competitions.

You might want to consider a 284 Shehane and run high BC bullets for that game. If you are going to single feed them you can get away with a short action and run any bullet that you want that will give you the optimum freebore.

If you are going plink around with it and intend to run a short action with mag boxes, then you'll be limited to the 160 gr class bullets and run the 180's for single feeding them. The 180's might not shoot as well if you get the freebore cut too shallow and force but the bullet past the neck/shoulder junction.

Just something to think about if you are building it for a designated game or multi purpose. </div></div>

Good advice, but I am looking first and foremost at a long range, practical, fun custom rifle. I LOVE my 308's, but getting them to 1k, for me, is pushing it. 260's are cheap, and rather similar enough to 308 for me, and they are common enough to find available commercial ammo if needed. Really, what it boils down to for me, is I want to build a extremely accurate long range capable rifle, thats fun to shoot, easy on the shoulder, not really expensive to reload for, but something I can atleast compete with if I wanted to. I have 2 ranges that offer 1,000yards, one with steel and E-Targets, the other with just Paper, and i want something that I can have some fun with. I am not building this purely to complete with, but just wanted something that is more capable than my 308's, and not as expensive and shoulder thumping as my 300WM.

I have a one time approval to drop $5k on a custom rifle/Glass from the wife using some bonus money, i am pretty set on a 260, just deciding on the specs of it now.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Kind of a side bar but , shehane vs 7wsm. What makes the shehane the better choice. Its a little less powder but fireforming negates that aspect? I know you gotta good reason ,i was just curious im not real farmilar with the round.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

And also to rel1203 make it a tac comp style setup and use the original reamer specs animal gave you and you will have a super fun magfed 1k capable lazer beam. The 260's are great ,there is a reason they are so popular.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: procovert45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Kind of a side bar but , shehane vs 7wsm. What makes the shehane the better choice. Its a little less powder but fireforming negates that aspect? I know you gotta good reason ,i was just curious im not real farmilar with the round. </div></div>

7wsm is a good round but someone wants to run Lapua brass exclusively your limited in options. The Shehane gives a little over 3 grains capacity over the standard 284. It will run almost the same velocity as the 7wsm. It's an inherently accurate cartridge. There is not much in the way of fireforming (same neck, shoulder, oal,...just the case body is .010 wider)

A couple other 7mm options for the 600/1000 yard game is a 7 SAUM or a 7mm-300wsm (better brass).

This article should help a little... http://www.6mmbr.com/7mm284.html



 
Re: 260 build considerations

Where is the best place to get the PT&G reamer? What do they cost, or do some smiths rent them to others. I would guess I will probably just buy it in case I have to set it back in the future which I probably will anyway. @the animal is that the standard dimensions on the reamer or did you order it to those specs. Is this a stock Item or does it usually take a while?
Thanks for the advice to everyone and if you have something else to add please do.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: blaster7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Where is the best place to get the PT&G reamer? What do they cost, or do some smiths rent them to others. I would guess I will probably just buy it in case I have to set it back in the future which I probably will anyway. @the animal is that the standard dimensions on the reamer or did you order it to those specs. Is this a stock Item or does it usually take a while?
Thanks for the advice to everyone and if you have something else to add please do. </div></div>

The best thing you can do is order one from Dave Kiff http://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/about.htm with the specs I mentioned. It will take a month or so to make it. You'll have it for your chamber and mail it to your gunsmith. Have him return it when he's done cutting your chamber. That way you won't be guessing on what different reamer your smith has once your barrel gets shot out.

Specs you want to tell Dave is:
260 Tac Match Reamer
.098 Freebore
.298 Neck

That's it.

If you have a few extra dollars and wanted custom dies made also order a resizing reamer from PT&G as well. Send the RZ reamer to Bob Green in York PA to have him build you a custom FL die and/or Seating die with your chamber reamer. His dies are awesome. http://greensrifles.com/Custom_Dies_and_Tools.html

The benefit of having a custom die is you'll have minimal case stretch (less trimming) and your brass will last longer. Plus chances are that it will improve your accuracy (you'll have minimal expansion in your chamber) over a standard FL sizing die. A standard die will crush the case body .003-.008 +/-. A custom RZ die cut off your chamber reamer dimensions will have only .001(base) - .0015(body) crush. The less movement in your chamber, the better chance that you have that it will be more accurate (all other factors being equal). If you do go this route, make sure you get the die that takes a Redding S Series bushing.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

IMHO, the 260 is optimized with either a LA or a SA with the AW cut. If you try to feed the 260 out of a SA AICS mags, the longer VLD bullets will be in the powder column. That is why poeple actually think the 6.5x47 or 6.5 cm is similiar to a 260 (case capacity i sshrunk with bullet set too deep).

Also, shooting the vld's, they will have to be either jammed or jumped a ton, like JROB said. This will mean a short reamer for the vld that wont be optimal for the SMK's (if you ever do a bulet switch cause the vlds are so picky) as the smk's like to be jumped half as much or less than a vld.

I shoot 130JLK's and they shoot great out of my AW mag with an OAL of 2.95 jumping 65 thou although loading out of a mag is not smooth with the super long vld (I told Chad Dixon with LongRIfles what I wanted and he came through big time). BUT, with the longer OAL and jumping, I am able to cram more powder into my case, giving me velocities well over 3k in a 260 case. No 6.4x47 or 6cm is going to touch those numbers. ever.
and no I am not making these numbers up. I had the highest score on Complex D at the snipers hide cup out of everyone. part of that was my shooting, but when you are pushing a high bc bullet that fast, wind does not matter, making my job easy.

anyways, punchline being, if you can do an AW magwell cut, jump on it. the OAL is not the only plus. the 10 rnd mags are WAY WAY awesome.

If you cant do the aw cut, plan on shooting the 142smk's and you will find a very amiable, easy to tune rifle in your hands more than capable of 1k+ shooting.

I would personally look up Chad Dixon, he a sponsor on the hide here, and not only are his prices better than anyone I could find, he has amazing turn around time. Oh, and his work isnt that bad lol.

Regards
DT
 
Re: 260 build considerations

oh and plus side of the smith I used, he had the reamer already (260 tactical) and didnt charge me a thing to use it. most smiths will do this.

I guess people buy reamers so they always have the exact same one. reason I dont care, is every barrel is different so you will have to work up a new load anyways. and the smith will more than likely always have that reamer. So if I were you I would not waste my moneyt on a reamer.

good luck

DT
 
Re: 260 build considerations

A great gunsmith makes all the difference. The best will make the most of the parts at hand and the end product will shoot better than most shooters can. And once that has been obtained, you're good to go.
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Animal is correct . The hot set up is .098 free bore 1-30 lead angle. The lapua neck diameter for the reamer has been .2975 per many of my customers and I think that should work on all the set ups. The price is 138 bucks . Let me know if you need one as I have 12 extra on a job card on my stoning bench. The phone number is 541-826 5808 and the private email is [email protected] Thanks Dave
 
Re: 260 build considerations

Called and ordered my reamer today from Dave and they had it in stock so it should be there when I get home next week. Dave was great to deal with. Looking forward to getting this done and getting some shooting in.