.300

[adamedner]

I have a .300 winmag Savage 110 FCP that I am currently working on for a long range shooter. Well semi-long range shooter since I think that 600 yards is long range. I was on 24hourcampfire.com and they gave me some good hunting loads, but the load that worked the best for me was good for hunting large game up to 300 yards. I was hoping that I might be able to find a load for a 1000 yard shot.

Before we get too deep in to this, I would like to say that the people here take long range shooting very seriously (one of the reasons that I came here) and I want you to know that I do as well. However that being said there are some things that are economically impractical for me to do. Sure NightForce scopes are awesome, but I will never be able to afford one.

So let’s get to the good stuff. The equipment that I have that I would consider the “static” portion to the long range equation is the rifle (Savage 110 FCP) the scope (Nikon Buckmaster BDC 4.5-14x40) and a LEE single stage press. Some of the items that I can change up are bullets (200 grain SMK, 180 Hornady SST, and 180 Accubonds) Powder (Reloader 22 [that’s it]) brass (Winchester) Primers (WLRM) and dies (LEE collet dies).

As far as the rifle goes I did not break it in “correctly”. What I did was cleaned it when I got it and just started shooting it. I have cleaned it since then just about every 20 shots give or take. It has had upwards of two to maybe three hundred shoots through it (I was careful and shot slowly so that the barrel didn’t burn out).

Currently I am using 75.7 grains of RL 22 and 200 grain SMKs. The velocity has been hanging in the 2950 range and the groups have been around an inch at 100 yards. All the brass has been uniformed (primer pockets included) flash holes deburred and necks turned.

If you also have suggestions for maintenance of the rifle I would like to hear them. I don’t do much with it except try and keep it as clean as possible.

Thank you for your time in reading this. It is a good rifle and I love shooting it. I just know it can do better than an inch at 100 yards.

 

[spaniel]

Re: .300

Have you done a ladder test to make sure you're roughly centered in an accuracy node? If not, you can look that technique up and try it. You really need to do it at 300 yards, 100 is not meaningful.

Your equipment and components are fine. You don't need the priciest stuff to get acceptable accuracy at the ranges you want to shoot. I started out with pretty much the same setup (except with a Rem Sendero and RCBS press), did less brass work than you're doing, and got a .5ish MOA load.

For the ranges you want to shoot I'd stick with the 200 SMK. I use that for targets and the 200 AB for hunting. Your 75.7gr Re22 is technically over book max last I looked it up, but velocity is spot on. Some find H1000 to be a more temp stable powder and consistent between lots, though I have never had an issue with Re22.

Your scope is a good value, I am a fan of them and recommended one to my buddy who used it to dial up for a 550yd shot to take his muley last fall. You will be limited by internal travel and need to use the reticle at some range, but you could get an affordable 20 MOA base to help with that.

 

[jrob300]

Re: .300

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ATH</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Your 75.7gr Re22 is technically over book max last I looked it up, but velocity is spot on. </div></div>

Have you tested this load extensively on a hot day. Seems pretty stout... If you can back off powder and your velocity does not drop, or drops very little, I'd say you're at the ragged edge or over.

H1000 is a very good powder as stated. The 208/210's will give you a wind advantage at 1000 yds. or less. You'd have to watch trace to *really* get the full effect, but yes, they're that much better than the SMK.

I'm using similar reloading equipment to yours (insert RCBS press, but otherwise the same) and I'm getting very good performance out to distances I can no longer range.

Good luck,

John

 

[adamedner]

Re: .300

Thank you guys. I appreciate it.

I will have to look into the ladder test. I have not heard of that before, but is it where you take the cold and hot loads listed and then work your way through them at consistent increase of charge. Like you start at say 60 grains for a cold load and 70 grains for a hot load. So you just work your way up id of like 60 for the first charge 60.5 for the second charge and 61 for the third charge. If that is what it is then yes i did that but maybe i need to try it again.

As far as trying the load on a hot day i would say that the last time i shot that load it was about 80 degrees out side and they seemed to preform just fine, but i will try that H1000 powder. I have only used Reloader 22 in this rifle so maybe it will like some other powder.

As far as it being a max load it doesn't seem too bad. The primer pockets are holding well and the primers them selves do not show signs of excessive pressure. I will back it off a bit though. It would be nice if the lighter loads kept similar speeds if only for the fact i would be saving powder.

Thank you again for your interest in what i am doing.

Adam

As an addendum to my post, i went to Midway USA to look for bullets.

I found a SMK weighing 240 grains and it has a BC of .771. Now i have always been told that BC is the biggest factor in long range shooting. I was wondering if they might be too heavy for my .300 win mag.

I also found the 208 Hornady AMAX bullets with the second highest BC of the lot at .648. Ill probably buy a box of them when they come in stock.

 

[Mo_Zam_Beek]

Re: .300

75.7 of RE22..


I shoot a 210 Berger VLD with 72 of RE 22 and it runs 2825 in 50 degree temps. On hot days 90 - 105 I push a few primers and unlocking the lugs can be fun.

If you really need more ummmph you might want to look at something like Retumbo which I may get around to trying out as well.


As for bullets the AMAX is cheaper than the Berger VLDs and based on the reports of those that have used both, they fly the same. The VLDs are a good hunting bullet in addition to being adept at punching paper. 200 - 240: depending on your twist - fine. Play with the seating depth as well. VLDs like to just touch the lands.


Good luck

 

[spaniel]

Re: .300

I believe book max with Re22 is south of 74gr, I'd have to pull the manual out. I do use 74gr for the 200SMK, and I recall I'd worked it up just over book max, but my velocity was running low at all charges even with a 26" barrel and bolt lift/brass showed no issues so I felt ok being a little over. But you're about 2gr over so I'd be very, very cautious. Strange that you are not over 3000 fps with that much powder. You may tighten your groups just by bringing the charge down.

For a ladder test you pick a powder range and load up rounds at say .2-.3gr increments. Shoot at at least 300yds on a calm day from a very good rest and keep your barrel cool ( I spaced all shots out 4min). Rather than the bullets climbing the paper in a line as one may expect as you increase the powder charge, you should find that some of the loads cluster close to each other despite some having more powder. These are your nodes. You pick a node you like (typically the faster one) and then load 3-5 rounds up at each charge within the node and test for grouping. Being in the node is good because it means if you're a little off measuring powder or something it should have less effect on your accuracy.

 

[Nefariousd]

Re: .300

I forgot where I got this but it comes straight from Hornady. Feel free to steal, I think that's how I got it.

Edit: Ooops Just read you were doing 200 SMK's, My bad, For some reason i thought this was another thread; but, if you find some 208's you'll have it