.300blk Zero?

[mdmountainman]

Hello all. I am looking for some thoughts and opinions on zero distance for my new weapon. I have a suppressed .300 blackout pistol with a 7” barrel and an eotech two dot reticle

The primary use will be, god forbid, home defense inside and potentially bugout personal defense.

I plan to handload subsonic 190 gr Sub-X bullets to use primarily (maybe 900fps?). I’ll also load some barnes 110gr tac-tx supersonic (I’m guessing I’ll be around 2000fps) in case that is the better play and maybe some varmint hunting.

So the question is for those with experience with the .300 blk: how should I approach the Zero when I get to the range? 25? 50? 100? Any thoughts on a good zero that can be used for both rounds? Remember that I’ll have 2 dots and the 68moa circle to work with. Indoors would essentially be point blank so does zero even matter?

I’ve always zeroed rifles at 100+ and handguns pretty darn close obviously. This platform is new to me.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Old Man with Gun]

If you zero the top dot with 110g supers at 100yds, the bottom dot should be about dead on for subs at 100 yards. At home defense distance the circle will be good to go.

 

[Ledzep]

What I've done (similar setup, but a single dot) is zero supers at 150yd and take note where the subs hit at various ranges. Basically gives a 0-200yd point blank range on the supers, and in my case it's also a 0-75yd point blank range on subs. Your second dot will give you a good reference point for an extended range, whatever that ends up being.

The only thing to keep in mind, and this is true of all AR's (and to some extent bolt guns too, but to a lesser degree because optics are usually mounted lower relative to the bore), your bullet's starting out 2.75"ish low, and takes 25-30 yards to get up to your point of aim, so things that are especially close will hit 1.5-3 inches low.

 

[TheHorta]

I have different guns for bedside / HD and anything I do outside, but…

Bedside is a 9.5” SBR/suppressed KAC SR-30 with T2/Unity FAST and Modlight with factory Sub-X (I don’t reload).

My go-to farm/outdoor/yote do-it-all is a 16” BCM .300BO suppressed. Likewise, we keep 190 Sub-X in that setup as well because we rarely need anything >200y. That said, I have an ATACR DMx 1-8 on a 1.93 C1 mount. It is zeroed for 110gr Nosler Supers at 100y. The DMX reticle is perfect for this as when using subs, the -2 MIL dot is dead-on at 50y, the -3.5 is dead-nuts at 100y and the -7 is perfect at 150y. Dope is super easy to remember and is second nature.

Center dot for supers, and…

2 x 3.5 = 7 — to remember 50/100/150 with subs.

 

[mdmountainman]

Thanks for the replies. I’ll go out and see which way makes the most sense once at the range. Seems there’s a couple of ways to go here.

 

[FuhQ]

I zero everything at 100 yards, other than handguns. Even my AR pistols, and AR's with EOTechs and red dots, get sighted in at 100 yards. I only shoot subsonics in my .300 BLK, so it's zero'd at 100 yards. If it has adjustable sights, my handguns (pistols) get zero'd at 50.

 

[MadDuner]

I zero everything at 100 yards, other than handguns. Even my AR pistols, and AR's with EOTechs and red dots, get sighted in at 100 yards. I only shoot subsonics in my .300 BLK, so it's zero'd at 100 yards. If it has adjustable sights, my handguns (pistols) get zero'd at 50.

Exactly my play as well.