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.308/6.5 Creedmoor suggestions

TexasCowboy

Private
Minuteman
Sep 30, 2021
6
1
Texas
I am looking for recommendations/confirmation on a purchase of a .308/6.5 Creedmoor that I can easily change out the barrel. Prioritizing an excellent .308 battle rifle that will hold up after 1000s of rounds. Also, excellent precision when is switch to 6.5 Creedmoor. Besides the rifle, also looking for recommendations on a scope? Thanks for the help.
 
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That's good advice. My plan was to buy an LMT MARS DMR in a 6.5 and buy a 16" 7.62 barrel with a Vortex scope but wan't sure of better options. Probably over thinking it. I"ve gone back and forth to much.
 
i have a scar 20s .308 and although i considered 6.5 barrel at some point, i don't have a need as yet. they have issues to iron out anyway.
 
That's good advice. My plan was to buy an LMT MARS DMR in a 6.5 and buy a 16" 7.62 barrel with a Vortex scope but wan't sure of better options. Probably over thinking it. I"ve gone back and forth to much.

I mean I'd want a different optic for a 16" 308 and a 20" 6.5.

The Vortex is very heavy.
 
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That's true. I am having a harder time deciding on the optic than the rifle. I would prefer a different optic for both but hoping to find a one good optic.
 
Every new guy that comes on to SH has their own fantasy do-all rifle. “Man I just want a door kicker carbine that i can mag dump suppressed with no malfunctions then knock flies off of goats from 3 miles just like those Canadian snipers.”

You are doing the same thing. You want a 308 “battle rifle” and a 6.5 creedmoor precision rifle. I get that it seems more cost conscious to build one do-all rifle, but they never end well. What do your really want? I mean, what is the goal of the project? Be thoughtful. Be realistic.

A 5-25 scope is overkill for battle effective hits on man sized target at close to medium range. And a lpvo is less than ideal on a precision rifle.

Beyond the optic, a collapsible carbine stock might be great on a carbine, but they are pretty miserable when it comes to fine tuning length of pull and cheek weld for precision shooting.

What about the trigger? A 3gun trigger is a different beast than a precision trigger.

And, depending upon how the gas is set up, you may need different buffers for the 2 cartridges. And, you’re going to want bolts head spaced to your barrels.

This is a long winded way to say that if you really want a battle rifle and a precision rifle, build a battle rifle. And, a precision rifle. Don’t build one rifle and expect it to fill both roles.
 
First off, welcome to the forum cowboy.

What are you trying to do with this rifle, what ranges are you trying to shoot? That is going help people here answer your questions from their experience. Because as others have said, there is a pretty big difference in setup between the two types of guns you are looking at. Weight accumulates quickly in these guns and many people forget to add that the ammo is nearly 3 times heavier compared to an ar15. I have changed around the LMT MWS quite a bit and its not really modular in the sense you want to be constantly moving parts around in the field although you can. Not to mention having to check your return to zero constantly on a precision rifle because you're moving barrels and scopes around is not something I can put up with (and I have done it).

At the very least to do what you're interested in you will likely want 2 optics. A 5-25x scope is really not practical for any shooting done off hand. Which means now you are likely adding a bipod (more weight). The LMT with 13.5 inch LW barrel and an Eotech is pretty dope and actually light enough that I would take it to hunt hogs.

How much are you realistically looking to spend and when are you looking to have the gun in hand by? It is not a great time to be buying the LMT rifles and many others right now and most are going for highly inflated prices, with barrels being very difficult to source. However, if you are willing to pay the premium they do exist. I bought mine a year ago from a guy in Austin thinning his collection, buying these used is likely the way to go. Most people talk big about shooting bajillions of rounds but its all talk.

Think hard about what you want to accomplish with this rifle, it'll save you tons of money.

And because no thread is complete without pics...
20210523_120134.jpg
20210910_005311.jpg
 
The 6.5 would be best for you. The slightly less recoil and if you do load your own don't go for the heaviest bullets like most people do. They are not necessarily the best bullet choice for the cartridge and you may get better performance from a slightly lighter bullet.
 
I am retiring in 2022 and going to move permanently to my 140 acres place outside Ft. Worth. Looking at a .308 for a few reasons.
First is for protection - 99% of the time I will grab my Glock, Sig, 300 blackout or .556 but you never know when you may need something with more distance.
Second, I just like to shoot. .308 is expensive but a lot less expensive than other ammo.
Third is for hunting, I don't have any hogs but I do have coyotes.

As far as the 6.5 Creedmoor, I am not sure how much long range shooting I am going to do but it seems like something I might want to get into since I will have more time. I was thinking it would be an inexpensive entry if I could just buy a barrel to easily switch out and hopefully find an optic that could meet both needs.
 
What is the longest distance you can shoot on your property? Is your property a square, long skinny rectangle, some weird salamander shape? Do you have a berm? Have you thought about where those bullets are going once they leave the barrel? You aren’t going to be able to shoot fence line to fence line. Don’t think for a second that a 308 cannot be built into a precision rifle. And, a 6.5 creedmoor is a great hunting cartridge- with appropriate bullets.

So we have protection, recreation, and hunting. You put protection first, but say that 99% of the time you will grab something else, so let’s put that last but not forget it. Do you have any other hunting rifle? If so, let’s put hunting right above home defense. That leaves recreation as your primary use of the rifle. And you say that you want to shoot long range. Long range recreational shooting. And protection for that fraction of a % or instances when a 556 doesn’t have the legs, and hunting. You’re going to have a hard time justifying self defense over ranges that a 556 is not effective, but let’s roll with this.

Everything in this list above points to a modest weight, precision oriented, rifle in either cartridge. Something with an 18-20” barrel. Fixed, adjustable stock. The magpul PRS is feature rich but heavy. The Luth-AR stock is lighter, but more fiddly to set up. The vortex razor gen 3 1-10 would comfortably alloy you to hunt with it, and make effective hits on man sized targets beyond the likely bounds of your property.

Around here, when in stock, match quality 6.5 creedmoor ammunition is less expensive than comparable 308 win. And, reloading for the 6.5creedmoor is less expensive (not much, but measurably). This is as close to a do all rifle as I can come given the parameters given.

If it were me, I’d throw out defense entirely as no 308 is going to be as light/portable/shootable as comparable 5.56 and you are not outrunning the 5.56 at justifiable defense ranges. And, I have a safe full of “hunting rifles.” I would pick the one thing that I really wanted the rifle to do well and build that. It is telling that you have asked this question on snipers hide and not doorkickercarbine.net...
 
I appreciate all the advice. I chose this forum because I've read several peoples questions and responses. It seems like there are a lot of people who are well informed and can give good suggestions. Never heard of dookick or many other forums that several of you guys might take part in.
 
Or you just buy a quality AR10 rifle in 6.5cm and another upper in 308 and just swap uppers. Each has their own optic geared towards its intended purpose with its own zero.

That's what I did.

MATEN lower with a 12.5" .308 upper wearing a T2 and a 20" 6.5C wearing a PST Gen 2 3-15x.

Adjustable gas blocks on both so I can use the same buffer/spring combo in the lower.
 
MATEN lower with a 12.5" .308 upper wearing a T2 and a 20" 6.5C wearing a PST Gen 2 3-15x.

Adjustable gas blocks on both so I can use the same buffer/spring combo in the
This is how the BRD begins. I once built an extra 6.5 Grendel upper for my lone AR15 lower. It eventually found a permanent home on a new lower, and I moved on to the next novelty upper build. Rinse & repeat over the years, and now I have a safe full of rifles, with a new upper always in the works... I'm running out of "roles" to build for and am now just building stuff I think I want.
 
First off, welcome to the forum cowboy.

What are you trying to do with this rifle, what ranges are you trying to shoot? That is going help people here answer your questions from their experience. Because as others have said, there is a pretty big difference in setup between the two types of guns you are looking at. Weight accumulates quickly in these guns and many people forget to add that the ammo is nearly 3 times heavier compared to an ar15. I have changed around the LMT MWS quite a bit and its not really modular in the sense you want to be constantly moving parts around in the field although you can. Not to mention having to check your return to zero constantly on a precision rifle because you're moving barrels and scopes around is not something I can put up with (and I have done it).

At the very least to do what you're interested in you will likely want 2 optics. A 5-25x scope is really not practical for any shooting done off hand. Which means now you are likely adding a bipod (more weight). The LMT with 13.5 inch LW barrel and an Eotech is pretty dope and actually light enough that I would take it to hunt hogs.

How much are you realistically looking to spend and when are you looking to have the gun in hand by? It is not a great time to be buying the LMT rifles and many others right now and most are going for highly inflated prices, with barrels being very difficult to source. However, if you are willing to pay the premium they do exist. I bought mine a year ago from a guy in Austin thinning his collection, buying these used is likely the way to go. Most people talk big about shooting bajillions of rounds but its all talk.

Think hard about what you want to accomplish with this rifle, it'll save you tons of money.

And because no thread is complete without pics...
View attachment 7713041View attachment 7713042
Oh yeah! Have the LMT Mars-H .308. Just got the ZCO420 and once the Atlas Bipod gets deceived this weekend, it's game on
 
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if you don't see yourself missing shots because of the wind calls, i see no need for 6.5cm when you can spend that money on optics or ammo, but that is just me.
 
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This is how the BRD begins. I once built an extra 6.5 Grendel upper for my lone AR15 lower. It eventually found a permanent home on a new lower, and I moved on to the next novelty upper build. Rinse & repeat over the years, and now I have a safe full of rifles, with a new upper always in the works... I'm running out of "roles" to build for and am now just building stuff I think I want.
With AR-15s I’m right there with you, but when it comes to AR10s a single Form 1’d lower is enough for me. They’re all fun guns whereas their little brothers are what I have/would use in a fight.
 
I'd just build or buy a 20" 6.5 Creedmoor, I never understood the argument behind using .308 for 100-500 yrd shooting and the CM for longer shots, the 6.5 is a Superior projectile no matter the distance and quite honestly the recoil impulse is much more pleasant so even for plinking purposes I still prefer the 6.5 CM.

If you want two different calibers buy two different rifles, That's the only reason I own a .308 is because of times like this were some ammo is available and some are not.

I don't personally care for the LMT because of the weight of the overall package and barrel replacement can be a bitch if stock is low, and the cost or having a quality custom barrel spun up is easily around $1000.00 not counting the barrel extension you have to cannibalize from an old worn out barrel.

I'd find a quality matched receiver set and a RCA HP BCG and have Compass Lake spin you up a 20" 6.5CM Krieger or Bartlein in a medium weight contour with a +1 or +2 gas system, pair that with a H2 Buffer and a AGB and you will have a solid setup.
 
.308 fanboy here…..started off about 10 years ago with a RRA .308, then moved on to 6.8’s, .300 BO’s, then back to .308 when POF came out with the lightweight Revolution….have both the 16” rifle and 12.5” pistol set up with thermals and suppressors for night hunting and they are great for that use….waiting on a Sig Tread 716i to arrive for a fun and gun buggy, truck, mil spec ammo shooting machine….a good thing about .308….over the ammo shortage the past year I have always been fulfilled….maybe not what I wanted but always something available. Not so much for other calibers.
 
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Listen to the post from @bigjake83

sumbitch can usually keep 3 shots in 5 inches at 100 yds if the wind is calm....

No really. Few know a gas gun like him and fewer can shoot one as well.
Go with a scope and offset red dot if you need.

For protection (even on some land) a decent 556 should be enough
 
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reasons for 7.62x51mm or .308.
- normally you can get good quality new m80 (ex: serbian ppu) for $0.40/rd and surplus for even less.
- if the eotwawki comes and we are scavenging farmhouses and barns for ammo, what are we gonna find?
- if we have to chase the UN perverts and sex traffickers out from someplace, we can use the ammo they drop while fleeing.
- your dad's 60 year old lever gun is .308.
- every patriot should own one.

reasons for 6.5manbun
- you shoot freethrows with a girls basketball, because the big one is hard.
- that other one hurts!
- you are operator af, and anything under 1500 yards is for faggots.

/all in good fun :p
 
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You can shoot .308 bullets out of 6.5 barrels and vise versa. It’s like .223 and 5.69 chambers. That’s the reason why the French army delta dudes adopted the creed.