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308 accuracy problem

Hondatech19

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 12, 2012
35
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39
Erie, PA
I have a 308 tactical. I was using the factory hogue stock and reloading. My 300yd group was right at 3/4" with 4 shots. The last shot opened the group from 1/2" to 3/4" but I think it was my fault. So with trying to make improvements, I put a B&C tactical medalist stock on. I wanted the feature of the adjustable cheek and length of pull.

Even though it had the aluminum bedding block, I bedded the action. I noticed I went about 3" past the action. Maybe I went too far?

But now my 300yd group is 2 1/2". Very frustrated with the accuracy results. Did I screw myself or is it worth sanding some of the bedding compound so it's not touching the barrel as much? Or do you think the issue is somewhere else?


Thank you for your wise wisdom and time.
 
I would sand the bedding compound. Having it touch the barrel is throwing off you harmonics. Remove the bedding compound that's touching the barrel
 
So the bedding compound shouldn't touch the barrel at all? Just want to make sure so I don't sand too far and have to start over. Sand right to where the barrel and action meet?
 
Man 3/4" at 300 yards should never be messed with, especially if a factory rifle is producing that. Not sure why you were trying to improve it from there.

Anyways, as Inf said it is most likely the bedding causing the issue. Even so, you are still sub MOA at 300 according to your numbers.
 
The only reason for changing was because I wanted the adjustable cheek riser and adjustable length of pull. Could never get a good cheek weld so I was trying to improve my form and my "repeatability". So far, it kind of back fired on me.

I understand it's still sub-MOA...BUT....it's worse than what it was before I messed with it and now I can't sleep until I can figure it out.

I tried tweaking the load every way I could but that only made it worse. I guess I'm not 100% sure where the bedding is supposed to stop as this was my first bedding attempt and before I started sanding and grinding on something, figured I ask before I end up starting from scratch.

From what I understood, when bedding a heavy barrel, it's ok to bed 2" past the action for extra support. Sporter barrels don't get bedded past the action. Did I misunderstand how it's done?
 
Hope you kept the old stock. Might just be you, getting broken into the new stock. I'd carve back the bedding, though. Might be that, too. I just picked up an old Savage, for kicks, and it shoots great. Plain factory everything. I thought about bedding it and some other upgrades but came to think........Why?
 
The barrel should be free floating at all time.. Not just part of it. I bedded mine just a shy past the recoil lug. But I didn't bed mine till after I shot the rifle as is. You might have not even needed to bed it.

" if it ain't broken, don't fix it"
 
Sounds like I will be sanding tonight and shooting tomorrow.

Inf/scout1/69 - did you torque your action screws after you bedded or just snug them up as equal as possible? As final assembly I'm referring to. Not while the bedding cures.
 
Put it back in the old stock to confirm that it is still shooting the way it did before. Also in agreement with others you should Dremel out the material forward of the recoil lug. I sure would like to have 3/4" at 300 yards that opened up from 1/2". Put it back in the old stock and come win the 100 yard shoutout here on the forum. I would love to see your 100 yard performance.
 
Put it back in the old stock to confirm that it is still shooting the way it did before. Also in agreement with others you should Dremel out the material forward of the recoil lug. I sure would like to have 3/4" at 300 yards that opened up from 1/2". Put it back in the old stock and come win the 100 yard shoutout here on the forum. I would love to see your 100 yard performance.

Not saying your wrong but depending on the previous torque specs and what he re torques it to many not give him the same grouping.
 
Erroneously believing that a 3/4" group @300 yards required a new stock? You realize that is .25 MOA? Sometimes I think old timers get bored and have these extra IDs just for this. Knock it off, Graham! :)
 
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Not saying your wrong but depending on the previous torque specs and what he re torques it to many not give him the same grouping.

I definitely agree. A little trial and error may resolve that. Torque wrench and good notes are invaluable.
 
I tried torquing the action bolts starting at 35inlb and shot 5 shot groups working in 5inlb increments and found the best group at 100yds to be at 60inlbs. But still does not group like it did before messing with the stock. That's why I was asking about torque specs. I don't want to over torque the bolts.

The reason for changing the stock as stated earlier was not to tighten groups at any distance. It was to improve my personal performance as the nut behind the wheel. Couldn't get a solid cheek weld.

Elite_KG - can you tell me more about the 100yd shoot you do on the forum please.
 
I tried torquing the action bolts starting at 35inlb and shot 5 shot groups working in 5inlb increments and found the best group at 100yds to be at 60inlbs. But still does not group like it did before messing with the stock. That's why I was asking about torque specs. I don't want to over torque the bolts.

The reason for changing the stock as stated earlier was not to tighten groups at any distance. It was to improve my personal performance as the nut behind the wheel. Couldn't get a solid cheek weld.

Elite_KG - can you tell me more about the 100yd shoot you do on the forum please.


It is also possible that when you replaced your stock it also could have changed your accuracy node that you had worked up. Try redoing your ocw test and fine tuning what you had before.
 
I tried torquing the action bolts starting at 35inlb and shot 5 shot groups working in 5inlb increments and found the best group at 100yds to be at 60inlbs. But still does not group like it did before messing with the stock. That's why I was asking about torque specs. I don't want to over torque the bolts.

The reason for changing the stock as stated earlier was not to tighten groups at any distance. It was to improve my personal performance as the nut behind the wheel. Couldn't get a solid cheek weld.

Elite_KG - can you tell me more about the 100yd shoot you do on the forum please.

It's MoBoost 100 yard shoutout. I'll find the thread and link it.
 
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...ound4-**-100yard-6group-30round-shootout.html

I've participated once with factory ammo. It funny how a tad bit of pressure will drive you nuts firing groups. Got some great guns and shoots tinkering around here in the hide. A few of them pony up and see where they stand. It's all in good fun!

Hondatech: hope you get the bugs work out and give the shoot-out a go. I would try to get your gun shooting again in the old stock you you know everything is back right. Then begin assessing switching stocks. I wouldn't jack with anything but the stock at that time. No messing with the scope, ammo, etc. Just focus on replicating how your gun sits in the former stock. Good luck.
 
Finally got to the range after a little bit of sanding on the bedding in front of the recoil lug. Got the group down to 1 1/2" at 300yds. I think I'm going to sand a smig bit more and practice from there.

JoshcBoucher - I'm going to have to agree with you as far as some of the issue being I just need to break my self into the new chassis.

I put the old stock on and it shot exactly like it did before I changed stocks. Maybe after a couple hundred rounds and my group doesn't tighten up any more, then I will be re doing load development from ground zero..

Thank you everyone for your input. Thank you Elite_KG for the heads up on the 100yd shootout. I'm going look into it more. It sounds like a good time.