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308 advice

bedroom defense

Private
Minuteman
Apr 2, 2022
6
2
High Point, NC
I got my first can in,30 cal rugged razor. Bought it for an AR but wanted to make a quiet gun to mess around at the range, so I impulsively bought a Mossberg predator for dirt cheap. After about 15-20 rounds the groups are at least 3 maybe 4 moa, rounds start going everywhere. I was using Winchester power point 150gr at 100 yards. I'm assuming it's the cheaper barrel not being able to take the heat. My question is are there good aftermarket barrels that I could try to find or should I just go get a good rifle with a heavy barrel?

This is assuming I'm not making grilled cheese at night and I don't have any other issues with the rifle/can. Have only shot the rifle with the can on, optic is a brand new vortex venom(this was for range fun so don't judge me)
 
How does it shoot with the CAN on or off? Are you tried other ammo? Are you reloading? Lots of questions before you start down a rabbit hole. I would get a box of some good ammo and see how it does, maybe tried the old FGMM . Know your twist rate?

Yes there are a ton of barrels out there, much better then you are currently using, but again are your expectations much more than what that gun is capable of?
 
Those rifles aren't known for accuracy.
Have you checked for baffle strikes?
I wouldn't assume the muzzle threads are concentric.
Honestly, it's not worth dumping the money into.
That being said, I believe that they are the same 1 1/16th 20 TPI as the Savage, so you could buy a savage takeoff barrel or one of the eabco barrels.
The muzzles aren't threaded, so you'd have to deal with that.
You would want to verify first.

You could order a barrel from Shaw, that is threaded, they are pretty good, a stainless barrel chambered and threaded for a muzzle device would run you 330 bucks.

personally, I think you're throwing good money after bad.
You would be way ahead of the game if you bought a Howa barreled action with the 20" varmint barrel and an XLR field stock from brownells.
Yes, it will cost more, but it is many times better.
disregard the photo, it is a stock photo of a longer barrel

 
I got my first can in,30 cal rugged razor. Bought it for an AR but wanted to make a quiet gun to mess around at the range, so I impulsively bought a Mossberg predator for dirt cheap. After about 15-20 rounds the groups are at least 3 maybe 4 moa, rounds start going everywhere. I was using Winchester power point 150gr at 100 yards. I'm assuming it's the cheaper barrel not being able to take the heat. My question is are there good aftermarket barrels that I could try to find or should I just go get a good rifle with a heavy barrel?

This is assuming I'm not making grilled cheese at night and I don't have any other issues with the rifle/can. Have only shot the rifle with the can on, optic is a brand new vortex venom(this was for range fun so don't judge me)
Heat is not your issue… I’m not trying to Sound like a dick, but a cheap-ass budget rifle with shitty factory ammo doesn’t make for the best recipe for a “precision” instrument…

Some ammo will shoot better with the can… Others, worse. This has been proven many times. The only real way to solve this is handloading and doing load development WITH the can attached.

Also, have you checked the alignment with a bore alignment rod? Could be getting some slight rubbing as the bullets pass the end cap of the can, causing issues.
 
Im not trying to be a jerk but you are going to spend more money trying to get that rifle to shoot than the cost of a decent rifle . I have already been down that road . It would shoot good for about 4 or 5 shot's and heat up , they groups would look like a shotgun pattern . If a guy was going to deer hunt it would be ok 1 or 2 shot's and your done but any type of shooting past 4 or 5 rounds that barrel is going to walk . I agree with fdkay . especially the recommendation to get a howa barreled action with a 20 inch threaded barrel and check out the mdt field stock . you will be money a head in the long run .
 
Those rifles aren't known for accuracy.
Have you checked for baffle strikes?
I wouldn't assume the muzzle threads are concentric.
Honestly, it's not worth dumping the money into.
That being said, I believe that they are the same 1 1/16th 20 TPI as the Savage, so you could buy a savage takeoff barrel or one of the eabco barrels.
The muzzles aren't threaded, so you'd have to deal with that.
You would want to verify first.

You could order a barrel from Shaw, that is threaded, they are pretty good, a stainless barrel chambered and threaded for a muzzle device would run you 330 bucks.

personally, I think you're throwing good money after bad.
You would be way ahead of the game if you bought a Howa barreled action with the 20" varmint barrel and an XLR field stock from brownells.
Yes, it will cost more, but it is many times better.
disregard the photo, it is a stock photo of a longer barrel


Those rifles aren't known for accuracy.
Have you checked for baffle strikes?
I wouldn't assume the muzzle threads are concentric.
Honestly, it's not worth dumping the money into.
That being said, I believe that they are the same 1 1/16th 20 TPI as the Savage, so you could buy a savage takeoff barrel or one of the eabco barrels.
The muzzles aren't threaded, so you'd have to deal with that.
You would want to verify first.

You could order a barrel from Shaw, that is threaded, they are pretty good, a stainless barrel chambered and threaded for a muzzle device would run you 330 bucks.

personally, I think you're throwing good money after bad.
You would be way ahead of the game if you bought a Howa barreled action with the 20" varmint barrel and an XLR field stock from brownells.
Yes, it will cost more, but it is many times better.
disregard the photo, it is a stock photo of a longer barrel

No baffle strikes, brake is mounted correctly and true. I might have to check into that. another 300-400 for a barrel sounds better than this one wasting away in the safe and buying another rifle. Understand its polishing a turd but I cant shoot more than 100yrds at the range im at, and just wanted a quiet plinker. Didnt realize this rifle was that bad though wow. Ive had cheap dear rifles in the past that was never this bad, but didnt know being my first can.
 
(1) How good can you shoot? #Always blame the shooter
(2) 4 Letters every 308 owner should know. #FGGM (Federal Gold Medal Match)
(3) Get a better Barrel.
(4) Less worried about concentricity because everyone blamed my threads when I got my first can and low and behond, it was the can (Caused me to MISS at 50 yards) No baffle Strike.

So I would yank the can off, shoot for groups. Are they the same? YES (Can not a problem). No (Check threads and can)
Then I would get some good ammo. Group size shrink? Yes (duh it was the ammo) No (Buy a better gun or replace barrel).
And yes even Savage can produce a good barrel, its the actions that get janky.
 
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