Long range build advice

[Rocketmandb]

Do I want the .535 bolt face for 300PRC?

The 300 PRC uses a .532" bolt face, which is a standard magnum bolt face (same as 300 WM, as an example).

 

[Moto41]

You've gotta start reloading... Select a projectile, and run it through ballistics calculator at different speeds - and compare it to the ballistics of the rifles you're already shooting. That will give you an idea of where you want/need to be. Cartridge selection will be whatever gets you the speed you're after without hotrodding.

I was where you were, but shooting a 208 out of a 308 case at 2640 - same ballistics as a 6.5 creed 147. At ~1K yards, I'd be 10/10 without wind, and sometimes only 3/10 in gusts, on a 12" steel round. I added a 300 RUM sending 220 LRHT's at 3170. 1K was now super easy, 8 or 9/10 in gusty wind. The 220's @ 3170 were averaging about the same hit % at 1500 yds as the 208's @ 2640 @ 1K yds.

Yessir….I agree. I been shooting these Berger 130’s and some 140’s that I found are sub 10 on my Garmin. Can I really get that much better hand loading?

 

[Moto41]

The 300 PRC uses a .532" bolt face, which is a standard magnum bolt face (same as 300 WM, as an example).

On the Coup De Gra, I don’t even see that as an option. (Link was provided above)

 

[Moto41]

And look at the bottom image in the one that @spife7980 posted. At 100 yards, you're looking through the top of the glass. Image quality degrades as you move away from the center, but you really don't care a whole lot about that at 100 yards - if you can't see well at 100, even through the edge of the glass, you got other problems.

As you dial for elevation, you get closer to looking through the middle of the glass until you hit center. With 40 MOA of cant, that would be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1300-1400 yards with my 300 PRC. At that point it starts travel away from center again, and the optical quality starts to degrade.

Then, as I mentioned above, you have your max range. Again, using my 300 PRC as an example, I have 35 mil of vertical capability in the scope. If I had no cant, I would be able to get 17.5 mil up and 17.5 mil down worth of travel. Without the 40 MOA (11.6 mil) I have in the mount and base, that means that I'd be able to dial to about 1650 yards, give or take. Anything longer, and I'd have to hold over to get the range.

With the 40 MOA built in to the rail and mount, I'm able to dial 5.9mil down and 29.1 up. That equates to just over 2100 yards that I can dial to.

That makes TOTAL sense! When I shoot my 6.5 now at 1250 yards, image is def an issue even with my Mark V. The 20 MOA base always threw me off because I wanted to be able to take it hunting with me at 2-300 yards and thought I was gonna be having to hold LOW, which seemed awkward. But didn’t realize you can zero it out. I ran outta clicks and just scrapped the 20MOA base the first time around. Now I get it. U are awesome and thank you SO much for your time to respond.

 

[Taylorbok]

On the Coup De Gra, I don’t even see that as an option. (Link was provided above)

.535 BF for a 300 PRC or WM

 

[Rob01]

Got it.
I use the Leupold Mark V.

What scope exactly?

 

[Moto41]

What scope exactly?

Mark V HD 7x35, 56mm, tremor

 

[Moto41]

Your scope generally has half the elevation travel up and half down with a 0 cant base. It may not be exact but for broad strokes.

A canted based tilts that so that where the rifles relative 0 point is at in your scope is lower, thereby making more elevation travel available at the cost of down travel.

You dont utilize down travel once youve established your zero for long range shooting.

So for something thats intended to shoot long range, 20 moa should be the minimum I would want.

View attachment 8723418

So if i read this right, and convert it into my real life example: When i am out to say 1500 yards, no MOA base, i pretty much MAX out my MOA AND hold a another 5+ in the scope. With a 20 MOA base, would that mean i would have 20 more MOA to use, therefore eliminating the extra hold, putting the target in the middle of my reticle? And in doing so, it would be more centered in the glass rather than be in the bottom? When i zoom all the way in, i can only see approx 30MOA in the glass vs the 50 or so I should see because it runs out of glass. Does this also change? Sorry…..trying to make sense of it.

 

[Rob01]

Mark V HD 7x35, 56mm, tremor

Ok that scope has 120 moa/35 mils of elevation so I would get 30 moa in that CDG action if you go that route and then get a 20 moa mount to mount that scope in. Should give you plenty of elevation and still zero at 100. If you need more you can use the reticle and hold over.

 

[Moto41]

Ok that scope has 120 moa/35 mils of elevation so I would get 30 moa in that CDG action if you go that route and then get a 20 moa mount to mount that scope in. Should give you plenty of elevation and still zero at 100. If you need more you can use the reticle and hold over.

Ok. So what that’s giving me is tech 170 moa? Right? 120+30+20

 

[spife7980]

Ok. So what that’s giving me is tech 170 moa? Right? 120+30+20

120/2=60 up and 60 down
The 30 can’t in a base and 20 in a mount equals a conversion of 50

You would end up with 110 up and 10 down in your scope in that scenario.
You offset the even split of the scopes total elevation travel by the amount of can’t built into the mounting solution, aka base+mount

 

[Moto41]

For the action: I have found 2 and curious y’all’s take on the better of the 2:
Impact Precision 777R OR Zermatt TL3.

 

[Moto41]

120/2=60 up and 60 down
The 30 can’t in a base and 20 in a mount equals a conversion of 50

You would end up with 110 up and 10 down in your scope in that scenario.
You offset the even split of the scopes total elevation travel by the amount of can’t built into the mounting solution, aka base+mount

Makes total sense. Thank you

 

[Rob01]

Yup what he said. Cant in base or mount does not add elevation to the scope but redistributes the amount you have.

Impact and TL3 are both good. I have a couple TL3s that work great. Major difference between it and the Origin is the TL3 has an integral recoil lug and the Origin is pinned. Either works.

 

[Moto41]

For the action: I have found 2 and curious y’all’s take on the better of the 2:
Impact Precision 777R OR Zermatt TL3.

Left out the coup de Grace. As well. 3 total to pick from. And the barrel would be a PVA Osprey.

 

[Taylorbok]

Left out the coup de Grace. As well. 3 total to pick from. And the barrel would be a PVA Osprey.

No wrong choice.

 

[Moto41]

Of course. No reason to spend more for a carbon fiber wrapped barrel in your use. I’d get something heavy like a Comp Contour or even a straight 1.25” barrel. The weight will do nothing more than help deaden the recoil.

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What barrel contour do I want here? M24? And fluting is just looks yea? Thinking this barrel 26’, 5/8 x 24 thread for suppressor. 1/9 twist. You like that?

 

[Rob01]

What barrel contour do I want here? M24? And fluting is just looks yea? Thinking this barrel 26’, 5/8 x 24 thread for suppressor. 1/9 twist. You like that?

Nope go 28” and the Proof Comp Contour or even straight as the weight will help cut the recoil for you and no reason not to go heavy for your use.

No need for flutes either as it will just cut weight. 9 twist would be my choice.

@bohem Josh owns PVA so maybe he will chime in but above would be what I would use.

 

[Taylorbok]

What barrel contour do I want here? M24? And fluting is just looks yea? Thinking this barrel 26’, 5/8 x 24 thread for suppressor. 1/9 twist. You like that?

Heaviest contour you can,
Skip the fluting,
I'd go 32" but looks like they only offer a 28"
I'd go 1:8.5 but a 1:9 will work also.

 

[Moto41]

Awesome! I think this is it:

MDT Elite Chasis
Coup Action, 20 moa base
PVA Barrell 28
Triggertech diamond 2 stage
Leup mark V

Everyone concur?? Bout to be CHRISTMAS in TX! This is what happens when it rains 30in in 2 days and you cant go outside.. $$$$$! Ha

 

[Rob01]

Go 30 moa base but all else is fine if it’s what you like.

 

[Moto41]

Go 30 moa base but all else is fine if it’s what you like.

Ok. I went 30. Not sure if its what i like cause im using y’all’s suggestions…ha But hoping its gonna be a tack driver and maybe make me have to paint my longer targets since they are brand new looking still.

 

[Rob01]

Ok. I went 30. Not sure if its what i like cause im using y’all’s suggestions…ha But hoping its gonna be a tack driver and maybe make me have to paint my longer targets since they are brand new looking still.

I meant chassis and trigger as those are personal choices as to likes and dislikes.

The action and barrel are good choices.

 

[Taylorbok]

Nothing wrong with any of the choices there.
I prefer a single stage but that's up to you.

 

[Rob01]

Nothing wrong with any of the choices there.
I prefer a single stage but that's up to you.

Same here.

 

[Moto41]

Thanks fellas! Y’all are awesome.

 

[Chickentoast]

Yessir….I agree. I been shooting these Berger 130’s and some 140’s that I found are sub 10 on my Garmin. Can I really get that much better hand loading?

No, but if shooting max range for cartridge, gonna be shooting 153.5's or solids in 6.5. Those will be expensive or unobtanium, and obviously the coal will be whatever it is, regardless or your throat. Same with the 220 lrht's or the 230/250 A-tips, or 30 cal solids for that matter. In 6.5, I shoot a SAUM improved (Sherman Max) which stays supersonic >2K, as does my 300 RUM. Reloading just introduces lots more variables, which for me anyway, makes it a lot more fun. I don't enjoy the trigger pulling aspect nearly as much as the design and setup / load dev.