.308 brass

Jcaplinger199

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I reload for my m1a that’s in 6.5creed and I reload for my m1 garand in 30-06. Both are hard on brass. When I need brass I wish usually by once fired hornady brass from members on hear and then fully resize and reload.
 

TSULLI

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Mar 2, 2018
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People sell on the forums or places like gunbroker are always good. A google search for once fired 308 brass will bring up plenty of cheap options
 
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ColinW

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Try to find some L.C(Lake City)brass in bulk. Shouldn't be too hard to find. It's thicker and can take at least 2-3 reloading/bolt cycling beatings. A quick 3 second search found this for you ..... .308 Brass

Since you mentioned reloading 😁.......41.5 grains of IMR-4895 pushing Sierra MKs 168's seated at mag length is the "Go To" load for M1A's. If your rifle doesn't shoot it well, you have a sick rifle. Getting an adjustable gas plug like this Schuster is also worth it's weight in gold for the longevity of your rifle.
 

Mr Tibbs

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Not new to reloading but new to M14's and new to reloading for .308. Looking for a good source for brass.
Just keep in mind that different brands of 308 brass had different internal capacity’s
 

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lightman

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Google "once fired brass". Diamond K, in post #7 is one of the ones that come up. Everglades is another thats reputable. As others have said, these rifles are rough on brass, so I would be looking at military cases. At one time IMI was pretty good brass.

Since you said you were new to M-14's and 308's I would suggest staying with a powder no slower than 4064. 3031, 4895, 4064 have all worked well for me.
 

Doom

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One quick note. If you go the once-fired brass route you will probably have to remove the primer crimp. I would also recommend a small base die and a 308 case gauge to insure that the rounds will chamber. As powders go the 4895 and 4064 are the go-to powders along with BL-C(2).
 

Baddog 0302

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M-14 / M1A's are hard on brass , and my past experences was that I could get 3 to 4 reloads that were in the FGMM loads range. 7 reloads with my cast bullet loads. One thing that helped my was using an RCBS X die.
On your SB die, DO NOT force your press, it's better to take two pass's in the sizing procedure that to be shut down due to a case stuck in your die.
 
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FLIGHT762

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If you don't have your F/L die set properly to move the shoulders of your fired cases properly, neither die will work. 98% of the time, most chambering issues are due to user error.

Do you have a way to measure the datum length of your fired cases?

Only one time, I needed a small base die to take down the web of the case to .468". That was with a tight chambered Steyr SSG 69.

M-1A's have a violent extraction. This can cause the case shoulders to be a little more forward than the chamber actually is. One way to get a better measurement on your fired cases is to turn your gas spindle off and fire 5 shots and extract the cases manually. This will work fine as long you don't have a match rifle where the gas spindle has been locked to open only.
 

morningsun

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The FL die is set so it bottoms on the shell holder. I do not have a way to measure the datum length. The only measuring devise I have right now is a Sheridan Slotted case gauge that I got yesterday. The case will not go far enough into the gauge for the shoulder to contact the shoulder in the gauge by about 300 thousandths.
 

FLIGHT762

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Just be aware that one of the downsides of using a drop in case gauge like the Sheridan, Wilson Dillon and others, is a semi auto rifle can bend the rim of the case so it will not fit into the gauge and sit proud, giving you a false reading. Make sure to try a few cases.

For your M-1A, your cases should be sized so the rims of the case sits flush with your Sheridan gauge. I reload for a couple of M1-A's, a 3 digit serial # Devine Tex. gun I bought in 1974 and a Scout Squad.
 
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