Wondering if this can be done. I have a thread on 308 can and would like to use it on my .22 rifle. I have a 10-22 with a heavy bull barrel that i would like to get threaded. I have used the can on my AR 15 and it was alot quieter....but not as quiet as a dedicated .223 can would be. Has anyone ever done this with a .22? Also wondering if the .22 woud be alot quieter (.22 is quiet already) and wondering if the bullet would hit the baffels in the can? I thought this would be a neat thing to do for my kids when they shoot. Any info is appreciated.
Suppressors 308 can on a .22 rifle....will it work??
- Thread starter Bullseyelr
- Start date
I would probably not do it. You are talking about a very dirty rimfire round going thru a centerfire can. Stability could be an issue when running subs.
The carbon buildup alone will be an issue. When you go to shoot centerfire thru it again you could risk a baffle strike.
The 308 can won't do much at all on a 10/22. Most 22 cans don't muffle a 10/22 due to the action cycling.
The carbon buildup alone will be an issue. When you go to shoot centerfire thru it again you could risk a baffle strike.
The 308 can won't do much at all on a 10/22. Most 22 cans don't muffle a 10/22 due to the action cycling.
You'll have to deal with another long wait but if you have kids getting into shooting I would just get a dedicated 22 can. I'm sure your kids will love suppressed rimfire and it will make the wait well worth it.
good points. I didnt even think about the carbon build up and how dirty rimfires are. I guess I will have to just get a .22 can.
I disagree, respectfully, with you rational.
1. Yes RM are dirty...... cleaning your can solves this issue, besides if you run subs you going to have lots of build up rim fire or not
2. Stability.... you have more room to wiggle, if its even an issue, in a +.30 cal opening than you do in .22 cal opening
I have run my Jet 30 can on a 10/22, .223. 22-250, CZ 455, 300wsm and of course 308 and never had any issues.
With that said... it's not the efficient, its heavy, will change you POI significantly and takes about 5 round to fill it with enough gas to make your 22 quiet ( my 223 can takes about 3 RM shots)
I have a dedicated .22 suppressor and its great light weight quite and easy to clean, but if I only had one I would and did not hesitate to use it on every rifle I had.
happy shooting.
I have three AR's, one in 300 blk, one in .223, and one in .22. I can't stand giving the government any more money than I have to so I bought one .30 cal. can and three q.d. adapters, one 5/8X24 and two 1/2X28. I'm planing on just twisting it off and on and putting it on whatever I'm shooting at the time. When my stamp comes in I'll give a full report on how my cheapo route worked out.
A while back this question was asked about TBAC 30P1. I too thought it was a bad idea for this very reason. Zac from TBAC was confident in stating that it was completely fine, but it will need to be soaked every now and again. That being said, I have a dedicated .22 can because it is smaller and lighter.
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If Zac said it's good to go i definitely wouldn't worry about it then.
308 cans have the wrong threading for 22 so you cant do it anyway unless you buy an adapter.
If you're concerned about the can not being quiet for 4-5 or more rounds you can load it up with G96. It make things real quiet and it may keep the rimfire nastyness from building up in your can.
What is G96?
I screwed my SHARK .308 on my 10/22 (same adapter I use for my .223).
Along with being stupidly big (not much shorter than my TAC SOLUTION bbl) it do nothing to suppress the sound.
Dave hooked me up with XCALIBER GENESIS.
Now all I hear is the bolt slapping into battery.
cheers,
Along with being stupidly big (not much shorter than my TAC SOLUTION bbl) it do nothing to suppress the sound.
Dave hooked me up with XCALIBER GENESIS.
Now all I hear is the bolt slapping into battery.
cheers,
i ran my 30BA on a 10/22 for a while, had a brake that was threaded right and i liked it. it was quiet, even on the first round, unlike some others are saying. i didnt shoot a thousand rounds through it, but a few hundred before running some full power 308 and full power 5.56 through it as well. I was not concerned at all about "filling the can up with junk" as i think most of that stuff blew out with the 308 loads. i actually really enjoyed it on my 10/22, and it looked mean as can be. (not that it has anything to do with anything). Now i have a 5.56 can i use on my rimfires while i am waiting on my TBAC 22L-1 in ATF hell. i use my TBAC 30BA on my 308 and on my 300blk.
If the can really fills up from 22 it would seem fine but when switching to a round near the diameter of the opening couldn't that cause the bullet to impact the buildup and cause a problem such as a baffle strike? Please correct me if wrong because I'm not very knowledgeable about suppressors but trying to learn and this got me thinking.
You shouldn't clean a centerfire can with any regularity. It can mess with your POI when you change their harmonics. And yes they have harmonics when they get lead build up. Removing that or increasing that exponentially can affect zero with the can on.
Stability? If your bullet goes unstable in the suppressor it wont matter how much "wiggle room" you have. Baffle strike will happen.
Your are certainly on the right track. If you build up lead fast, it can lead to baffle strikes when you go back to a higher pressure round that the can was intended for. There is a reason why 90% of the 22 can out there come apart for cleaning.
That's the same reasons most centerfire cans do not come apart. They just don't require the extensive cleaning a dirty round like the 22 does.
Yes it can be done but like everyone else has said here, its not good to especially if its a sealed can and you can really clean it. You could seriously cut down the life of the can if its starts to erode.
OMFG! $100 to the first mother fucker that gets a baffle strike or a significant shift change in POI due to .22lr funk build up in their canGive me a brake.
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I have a carbon fiber 308 can from Shooters Depot unfortunately. After the carbon fiber outer tube grenaded on me due to it being CF and wholly inadequate for centerfire, and the manufacturer being a POS, I had to fix it myself. It now wears a hose clamp to hold the tube onto the rear end cap where it cracked, and lives on my 10/22. It handles the pressure of rimfire just fine. 
It has some first round pop, but after that, all you can hear is the action cycling. It is the size and weight of my AAC Cyclone, which makes the 10/22 very unwieldy and muzzle heavy, but for dispatching pests and what not, it is great until I can get a dedicated rimfire can. The suppression is good, the size and weight are not. That being said, if all I had was my Cyclone (which is also used on my precision rifles) I would not use it for rimfire due to the dirtiness, unless I needed to make a quiet shot to kill a cat in the backyard, etc.
It has some first round pop, but after that, all you can hear is the action cycling. It is the size and weight of my AAC Cyclone, which makes the 10/22 very unwieldy and muzzle heavy, but for dispatching pests and what not, it is great until I can get a dedicated rimfire can. The suppression is good, the size and weight are not. That being said, if all I had was my Cyclone (which is also used on my precision rifles) I would not use it for rimfire due to the dirtiness, unless I needed to make a quiet shot to kill a cat in the backyard, etc.
I'll forward my address for the money. Thanks
Forward us the proof.
Edit: And I'm not talking about taking a can with 10k worth of center fire through it, firing 20 rounds of .22lr through it, cleaning it spick and span so there is zero carbon in it from either cartridge, shooting another 20 rounds of .22lr though it, and then admiring the POI change.
Also, I would not worry about eroding the baffles on a .30 cal can with a 16"+ barreled .22lr. Just saying, the powder has done burn it's burn by the time the gas exits into the expansion chamber, it's only moving maybe 1200fps, and depending on the can the blast baffle is most likely made of stainless steel if not inconel.
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That's all fine and dandy but I'm of the impression you don't really know what your talking about in the first place. Regardless of your scenario. The OP asked is it a good idea and many chimed in with relatively the same answer. For the trouble it can cause, it was not an idea I would recommend. Cant it be done? Sure, yes go right ahead but use at your own discretion. I do not want my investment of 10 months and the cost of the suppressor to be the item in which catches all the damage for my learning curve.
It's a documented FACT that it has happened before and it has happened to me. I tested this very theory with an SWR Omega 30. We ran it on a SBR GSG5 for over 1k rounds. We cleaned it with an ultrasonic bath. It was EXTREMELY dirty. After it was dry, we shot 5 rounds of centerfire thru it and there was a noticeable change in the rifles accuracy. I can't explain why that was. We fired 100 more rounds of 22 thru the can and then stopped. It went back on the centerfire can and after 4 rounds an end cap strike was noticed.
So I take away from it that its not a great idea to run your centerfire cans on a rimfire platform if you plan to go back and forth between the calibers. As I have said numerous times, I test everything I think of. If I don't believe in something, I go try it. In fact SWR/SilencerCO has the can right now repairing it and I am paying for the damage since it was my fault. But, I learned something and if I can pass that on to someone else.... that is fine with me.
So let me get this straight.
1. You ran a previously used can on a .22lr for 1k rounds.
2. Cleaned it in an ultra sonic cleaner.
3. Fired 5 rounds out of used but now clean can, after it was dry with shitty accuracy. (Shitty groups, POI change, or both?)
4. Fired 100 rounds of .22lr though used but now clean can with the exception of 5 centerfire. (Any shitty groups, POI change, or both.)
5. You can not explain why this was.
6. Fired 4 centerfire rounds and noticed and end cap strike.
If this is true you really didn't isolate the end cap strike, you just noticed and end cap strike after you swapped you can from gun to gun several times and a cleaning. There are a whole shit ton of things that could have occurred like a chunk of carbon came loose and obstructed the bore of the can. Maybe the threads on your .22 are shorter than on the host gun. If thats the case the threads in the can could have built up with carbon so when you threaded it back on to the host it didn't shoulder up. (Assuming it is a direct thread.)
If it makes you feel any better I got an end cap strike on my SDN-6. Root cause: I used blue locktite on the threads of the brake. Hot barrels soften that stuff up quick. The can came loose a quarter turn and shitty accuracy and POI changer were realized. Lesson learned: Use provided Rockset. Point being, I isolated the root cause.
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I answered you in blue..... obviously.
I should addd these questions for you:
What 30cal can do you run on your 22 platform?
What 22 can do you own?
How many times have you ever cleaned your 22 or 30cal can? And what method?
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If your goal is to swing the big "I have more and done more than you could ever imagine!" dick, good for you I guess. Anybody on who frequents this forum already knows you have a ton of time and fun shit on your hands. That has been established. What has not been established is you realizing rational deductive reasoning and simple problem solving skills supersede "I can't explain why that was." Just saying. You didn't try to reproduce the situation so how can you speak to a conclusion with such certainty you have never tested for? You simply noticed the end cap strike and sent it in for repair. Good for you.
I used blue because I could only get my hands on one brake at the time and I wanted to swap my can from gun to gun. I should have treated it like a direct thread and checked it between strings. Like I said, lesson learned.
Im not swinging a dick, or a hammer, or anything. I think the issue is your lack of willingness to listen and learn. This has nothing to do with my free time and what I do in it.
So you ran your SDN-6 on your Ruger pistol, not extensively, but you did it…… interesting. Yet, you don't know a number? And you call my data non existent when you haven't even attempted a control test? How do you feel like you can launch an opinion on this situation then?
You seem to have limited information on what you are talking about. I do not need to reproduce a situation that has been widely debated for years when I can take the majority of peoples experience, recreate it for myself, and get the EXACT SAME RESULTS as they did. Like your issue with the loc-tite I learned a valuable lesson.
Wether you want to take what I did and run with it or debate it… completely up to you. But I am telling you that you are wrong, and I have seen why. I also don't see anyone agreeing with your statements….. they must not have the same results.
Wether you want to take what I did and run with it or debate it… completely up to you. But I am telling you that you are wrong, and I have seen why. I also don't see anyone agreeing with your statements….. they must not have the same results.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=2052176
Zac is a pretty smart guy.
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So what's with all the debris in these 22 suppressors that come apart for user cleaning? Why is 22 such a notoriously "dirty" caliber?
1200 fps? Most 22 ammo that is worth a damn is subsonic. Most popular ammo i.e. RWS, Lapua, CCI, and so on recommend subsonic ammo for accuracy. I rarely run supersonic ammo because by the time it exits the muzzle its usually subsonic in a 16" barrel regardless of suppressor use. Pistol is a different story but you aren't really worried about tight groups in a 22 pistol.
The majority of 22 cans are aluminum…. hence the warning not to use a corrosive dip for cleaning. It is rare to find an all stainless can for 22, baffle core can be stainless, but rare to see an all stainless can. I know the Mack Bros can is stainless but they also rate it for other caliber use as well. An all inconel 22 suppressor is overkill and un needed. For what you are doing with it, it would cost an arm and a leg to make and even more to purchase. Most people buy a 22 suppressor because they are cheap investments for the fun factor.
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Key word…… SMALL VOLUME!!! Then they recommend cleaning. Zak's statement doesn't agree with you at all. It mirrors my point. Why run a dirty round thru a centerfire can that can't come apart for cleaning. And increasing your chances of some issues.
Do you honestly thing the end user will clean their suppressor each and every time? Will they have time? Most likely they will forget. I cleaned my suppressor and still got damage. There is no way you can clean lead and buildup entirely from a can you can't scrub.
Go on Facebook and look at some of the pictures posted up by NFA GUNS group. Look at all the shit they get out with a small hand pick BEFORE a ultrasonic soak.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=723295567699382&set=gm.660056240705045&type=1&theater
Note that he says that pile of stuff is from the mount and first baffle only….. self explanatory from here on out.
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So what's with all the debris in these 22 suppressors that come apart for user cleaning? Why is 22 such a notoriously "dirty" caliber?
i would agree there is unspent powder but that doesn't mean its going to burn outside the barrel and inside the can. The fact that it exists illustrates that. As a matter of fact, i recall only seeing unspent powder in the action of my pistol and never in the can. I could be wrong. I have only fired a few hundred rounds though it and had it apart once or twice.
1200 fps? Most 22 ammo that is worth a damn is subsonic. Most popular ammo i.e. Rws, lapua, cci, and so on recommend subsonic ammo for accuracy. I rarely run supersonic ammo because by the time it exits the muzzle its usually subsonic in a 16" barrel regardless of suppressor use. Pistol is a different story but you aren't really worried about tight groups in a 22 pistol.
yes, 1200fps. I'm referring to average of the walmart shelf .22lr. No fancy stuff. Out of a long barrel it makes a sonic crack. Out of a pistol it doesn't. Amassing, yes i know.
the majority of 22 cans are aluminum…. Hence the warning not to use a corrosive dip for cleaning. It is rare to find an all stainless can for 22, baffle core can be stainless, but rare to see an all stainless can. I know the mack bros can is stainless but they also rate it for other caliber use as well. An all inconel 22 suppressor is overkill and un needed. For what you are doing with it, it would cost an arm and a leg to make and even more to purchase. Most people buy a 22 suppressor because they are cheap investments for the fun factor.
i was not referring to .22lr cans but rather .30 cal cans and is the reason i made the reference to stainless and inconel. Please reread my statement.
If you want to keep trying to cover your tracks, go right ahead. You made a bold statement and called out anyone that has had an issue with a can that had 22lr run thru it.
I answered your claims. Yet you still try to disprove me with no actual backup. Just want you have read.
I am not calling anyone an "idiot" I am calling you misinformed. That is all.
Just to clarify are you saying 22 ammo out of a pistol is subsonic, but out of a 16" rifle barrel it is not subsonic?
"Out of a long barrel it makes a sonic crack. Out of a pistol it doesn't. Amassing, yes i know." - 816Gump
I answered your claims. Yet you still try to disprove me with no actual backup. Just want you have read.
I am not calling anyone an "idiot" I am calling you misinformed. That is all.
Just to clarify are you saying 22 ammo out of a pistol is subsonic, but out of a 16" rifle barrel it is not subsonic?
"Out of a long barrel it makes a sonic crack. Out of a pistol it doesn't. Amassing, yes i know." - 816Gump
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Gump,
You have confused even yourself now. Answer the question.... does 22 go subsonic in a pistol length barrel? You say barrel length affects projectiles speed.... answer the question please. Standard ammo in both platforms.... same or different? Can you explain the difference in percussion between the two when no suppressor is in use.
I never made an assumption about anyone. Im saying most people will forget to follow some cleaning steps or just not have the time. That doesn't speak poorly to anyone in particular, it is a generalized statement about humans.
You have confused even yourself now. Answer the question.... does 22 go subsonic in a pistol length barrel? You say barrel length affects projectiles speed.... answer the question please. Standard ammo in both platforms.... same or different? Can you explain the difference in percussion between the two when no suppressor is in use.
I never made an assumption about anyone. Im saying most people will forget to follow some cleaning steps or just not have the time. That doesn't speak poorly to anyone in particular, it is a generalized statement about humans.
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I have shot CCI HV .22lr out of my 4.5" packlite upper and no sonic crack with the MacBros. Out of a 20" or so CZ455(not my gun) there was a sonic crack with the MacBros. Gemtech subs were subsonic in both instances. That is the only way I can answer your question.
I can not describe the percussion of either without the can because I wear ear pro without a can but I can give an introductory lesson on firearms and the noised they make. It's real short so hang tight.
Noises firearms make:
1. Mechanical. Triggers clickin, actions cycling(semiauto/auto), maybe a little powder burn from the breach(semiauto/auto)
2. Muzzle blast. The big boom on the end of the gun that hopefully is farthest away from you.
3. Sonic crack. The air being ripped open and smacking back against itself as the projectile move along its path.
I'll even do a little suppressor:101
What sound associated with firearms does a suppressor marginalize?
1.Mechanical
2. Muzzle blast
3. Sonic crack
If you chose 2. Muzzle blast you are correct.
Suppressors mitigate only muzzle blast and do nothing to reduce the mechanical sounds or sonic crack.
They also reduce flash, report, and mask firing position......
Enough said Gump...... we know where you stand now.
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So does that mean KYS gets $100 from you? Like you boldly promised?
Or is your answer still:
To the OP: don't do it.
But if you "do", Gump will "not" give you $100, too.
Sad thing about this getting so off topic is how confused the OP must be by now.
Ha! You have to be kidding me.? KY gave a valiant effort but he 1)conceded and 2)did not establish a strong case for not using a .30 cal can on a .22lr. Furthermore, while KY is cool and seems to have all the new badass stuff he is not Zac Smith. Zac posted his recommendation with regard to the TBAC 30P1 and .22lr on the internet for the whole world to see. He has his shit together.
Would you put the reputation of your company on the line and make false, misleading, or unfounded claims about your good or service? Furthermore, would you do such a thing even if you had to only rework the part?
Just sayin, Zac is not a moron in any way, shape, manner, or form.
Would you put the reputation of your company on the line and make false, misleading, or unfounded claims about your good or service? Furthermore, would you do such a thing even if you had to only rework the part?
Just sayin, Zac is not a moron in any way, shape, manner, or form.
If I were to sit back and do the whole armchair gunsmith thing, I would say the root cause of KY's SWR problem is build up of carbon in the threads or on the mating surface of the can and it did not shoulder up when he fired the final four rounds. This assumes that the threads on the .22lr are shorter allowing carbon to deposit. When he installed the can on his .30 cal the threads on the muzzle are longer so they stop in the carbon. If this happened the mating surfaces may not have been square taking the can out of concentricity with the bore of the rifle.
If this is the case did the .22lr cause the problem? Yes but not because it's a .22lr, because the threads were shorter.
But hey, it's all assumptions. I'm not a gunsmith. I just try to look at the whole picture.
Anyone who cleans a dirty can should expect a POI change of some sort. That is just an opinion.
If this is the case did the .22lr cause the problem? Yes but not because it's a .22lr, because the threads were shorter.
But hey, it's all assumptions. I'm not a gunsmith. I just try to look at the whole picture.
Anyone who cleans a dirty can should expect a POI change of some sort. That is just an opinion.
Hey guys,
To my knowledge, we've never seen one of our .30 cal or .223 cal cans shooting .22 and then have a problem going back to the respective centerfire caliber. But if someone called us about the same problem reported in this thread with the baffle strike, my (or Ray's or Shane's) first instinct would be to check to make sure it was threaded on all the way and shouldered properly- basically what 816Gump guessed.
The deposits from "some" .22LR aren't going to make a difference either way. I you shoot a whole bunch, it would be a good idea to clean it out before you go back. We do recommend getting a dedicated .22 suppressor if you're going to be shooting a lot.
Hope this helps...
Zak
To my knowledge, we've never seen one of our .30 cal or .223 cal cans shooting .22 and then have a problem going back to the respective centerfire caliber. But if someone called us about the same problem reported in this thread with the baffle strike, my (or Ray's or Shane's) first instinct would be to check to make sure it was threaded on all the way and shouldered properly- basically what 816Gump guessed.
The deposits from "some" .22LR aren't going to make a difference either way. I you shoot a whole bunch, it would be a good idea to clean it out before you go back. We do recommend getting a dedicated .22 suppressor if you're going to be shooting a lot.
Hope this helps...
Zak
Thanks for finally clarifying Zak. The discussion had me really curious.
I shoot 22LR out of my 30 cal can all the time.
Every once in a while I clean it to get the big chunks out.
Plenty quiet with target ammo, which is almost always subsonic.
Every once in a while I clean it to get the big chunks out.
Plenty quiet with target ammo, which is almost always subsonic.
You just keep digging. I never conceded. Im confident in my suppressor knowledge. I didn't present a case you favored, let's be honest. You wouldn't pay up if someone smacked you in the face with a video and 10 witnesses. Im confident the damage would have been a lot worse had I not cleaned the suppressor out after my initial firing of 22.
While I would say Zak is a smart guy and a top tier suppressor manufacturer..... he may not have the time I have with the various suppressor makes and models. I have shot a lot of suppressors, own quite a few. I am not going to drop numbers because people will say I am bragging. I don't care, I am trying to help educate on this situation. It is also good to be friends with the SOT guys around town, and to have the range they test fire on.
My issue with the SWR was not the threading. We had .75" on the barrel and a properly made adapter by a well known gunsmith. The buildup was all the way thru the suppressor. Again, Gump you have not done the test yourself you are only spewing what you have heard and read. So stop with the cheerleading antics. Either test it and report back, or sign off on your lack of experience on the matter. Most of my information came straight from the techs a SilencerCO/SWR. I think they are qualified to deliver an opinion on this and what happened with my can.
