Re: 338 Savage 110 owners when and how
I am no metallurgist, I just know that when the mechanics I know all use Snap-On tools there is a reason. When the shooter's who routinely win long range shoots clean their rifle's in a certain manor there is a reason. I cannot tell why you should clean your rifle with or without a bore guide and carbon fiber rod. I just know it is what I am doing.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: timelinex</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mnhntr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is something I found that has worked well for me.
Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don’t have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your rifle and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one “At-A-Boy” for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One “Aw-Sh*t” wipes out ALL “At-A-Boys”.
Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out.
Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o’clock. This is very bad “JU-JU” for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with our Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and SLOWLY run the brush through the barrel 10 complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.
Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with the Speedy Formula or Butch’s Boreshine and pass it through the bore. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Kleen or lighter fluid. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt</div></div>
Not to beat a dead horse... but you see extremely confident in your method. Can someone explain how a cheap aluminum rod with no bore guide will mess up you barrel. I'm in biomedical engineering and not materials engineering, so maybe someone can enlighten me on this(take 50% of the same classes btw). So you(not directed just at you, but rather everyone) say that SOFT aluminum will scratch/damage HARD steel that
1. Withstands 50,000+ PSI of pressure.
2. Has another metal routinely rubbing up against it at a speed of 2500+ FPS.
Note:The combination of just those two , are enough to heat the barrel, sometimes to the point of mirage coming off it. You to do that with a cheap rod.
3. Has a hardness ratings leaps and bounds above the aluminum.
If you see any markings on the barrel after it would be the aluminum scratching off onto the barrel and not the barrel. You don't believe me or the theory behind it? Go ahead and spend as long as you want scratching your glass table with your fingernail. Go at it as hard as you can, get back to me after you've lost half your nail but haven't left so much of a scratch in the glass.
4. Is subjected to a brass or steel brush anyways! Just because the brush spins doesn't mean it isn't touching the bore. It would have the same effects of dragging any kind of buildup/soot/grit.
Those are just 4 points that I can think of off the top of my head. The only answer Ive ever heard to a question like this about the aluminum rod being softer, is to not under estimate aluminum and that sandpaper is made of it. This is completely off base. The aluminum on the rod is completely different than the aluminum oxide used for sandpaper. Just because they both have the same word in them doesn't make them identical or even share any properties. For example, diamond and graphite are made out of the EXACT same material(carbon). The only difference is the linkage of the carbon atoms, and that is responsible for making them vastly different.
To be clear, I am not trying to be a smart ass in this post. Obviously ALOT of people buy into the non-aluminum rod + bore guide method. I fully understand I may be missing a huge part of the equation, and I am posting this in hope's that someone point it out then...
Lastly the whole "Ive looked through 1000's of bore's and damaged ones are always the newbies that don't use the right tools" isn't a valid argument. You don't ever know the full story, and being that they are 'ignorant' to the 'right' cleaning methods that could mean they are also just very ignorant to many other things that really CAN damage the bore. For example, Shooting 50 shots in a row overheating and damaging the barrel or cleaning once every 2000 rounds and not even using solvent, and other mistakes like that. That's why there's a famous saying of 'correlation doesn't imply causation'.
I know there are ALOT of smart people on here, so hopefully someone can present a valid proof/point.
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