6.5 Grendel Build or Buy

BigRed308

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A buddy is twisting my arm to get into nighttime yote hunting under thermal or NV.

I’m going to use this to justify a new build in 6.5G. So I am on the fence about NV vs Thermal-but that needs more research and a budget set by me.

I’m looking at the LaRue 6.5 match upper-but my buddy is admit-must be a 20” barrel. I’m not really seeing the gains for the 2” of barrel for a rifle that will live inside 300 most of its life and rarely reach 500.

That being said I’m down to the LaRue upper on a LaRue lower or building on a geissele receiver set I have laying and ordering up a proof stainless 20”.

I will be shooting suppressed, once my cans are freed from the federal pen. So much for E-forms being quicker.

Given y’all’s experience, which way would you go? Am I missing anything?
 
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Jmccracken1214

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    A buddy is twisting my arm to get into nighttime yote hunting under thermal or NV.

    I’m going to use this to justify a new build in 6.5G. So I am on the fence about NV vs Thermal-but that needs more research and a budget set by me.

    I’m looking at the LaRue 6.5 match upper-but my buddy is admit-must be a 20” barrel. I’m not really seeing the gains for the 2” of barrel for a rifle that will live inside 300 most of its life and rarely reach 500.

    That being said I’m down to the LaRue upper on a LaRue lower or building on a geissele receiver set I have laying and ordering up a proof blank.

    I will be shooting suppressed, once my cans are freed from the federal pen. So much for E-forms being quicker.

    Given y’all’s experience, which way would you go? Am I missing anything?
    How far are your shots going to be?
     

    Ravenworks

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    Although the Grendel is a nice round I'd suggest that you save that money and spend it on NV
     

    Jmccracken1214

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    I love the Grendel, but inside 150, I’d probably run 223. Or 6arc.

    But for the 65G, 18 will be fine, 16” would be fine for that also. 12” is fine for paper at those extended ranges but I wouldn’t use it for a quick kill at 400-500.
     
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    bigjake83

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    A buddy is twisting my arm to get into nighttime yote hunting under thermal or NV.

    I’m going to use this to justify a new build in 6.5G. So I am on the fence about NV vs Thermal-but that needs more research and a budget set by me.

    I’m looking at the LaRue 6.5 match upper-but my buddy is admit-must be a 20” barrel. I’m not really seeing the gains for the 2” of barrel for a rifle that will live inside 300 most of its life and rarely reach 500.

    That being said I’m down to the LaRue upper on a LaRue lower or building on a geissele receiver set I have laying and ordering up a proof stainless 20”.

    I will be shooting suppressed, once my cans are freed from the federal pen. So much for E-forms being quicker.

    Given y’all’s experience, which way would you go? Am I missing anything?
    What are you looking to spend? I've got a Custom Craddock 18" Bartlein 6.5G that was built on the Larue 2.0 Stealth Upper and lower, JP LMAS BCG and SCS.

    It's just collecting Dust. Built it as a hunting rig but just don't really hunt anymore. Shoots 1/2 MOA with Hornady Black 123 ELD.
    IMG_20220911_201056967~2.jpg
     
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    CaptArab

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    You're gonna kick yourself for going long once your cans clear. I'd just use a 14.5-18“ 223 for what you're talking about. What cans?
     

    hlee

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    Hornady black 123 gr bthp is listed at 2550 fps (if my memory is correct). It is right at 2550 from my 22” 6.5g. Runs at 2450 fps from my 18” 6.5g. I shoot the long gun in comps and hunt with the shorter gun. The longer shoots better groups, but the shorter ain’t a slouch. The 18” is better with a suppressor, just because it is a shorter package. If I had it to do over again, I wouldn’t change anything. They both perform their intended roles well.
     
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    FuhQ

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    I built both of mine... It's the only way to ensure you get the highest quality parts in every piece of the puzzle.

    IMG_0154.jpeg


    I also handload for mine. Neither barrel I bought liked the Hornady Match, Custom, or Black 123 SST, AMax, or ELDM ammo...They all averaged 1.5" to 2.5" 5-shot groups at 100 yards. I know it's an AR, but I was still not impressed. I use Nosler 123 Custom Comps in Hornady brass with CCI 450 primers and CFE-223 powder. I get some good results that I can live with... 😏

    GQCJ0094.jpg
     

    GUNNER10

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    A buddy is twisting my arm to get into nighttime yote hunting under thermal or NV.

    I’m going to use this to justify a new build in 6.5G. So I am on the fence about NV vs Thermal-but that needs more research and a budget set by me.

    I’m looking at the LaRue 6.5 match upper-but my buddy is admit-must be a 20” barrel. I’m not really seeing the gains for the 2” of barrel for a rifle that will live inside 300 most of its life and rarely reach 500.

    That being said I’m down to the LaRue upper on a LaRue lower or building on a geissele receiver set I have laying and ordering up a proof stainless 20”.

    I will be shooting suppressed, once my cans are freed from the federal pen. So much for E-forms being quicker.

    Given y’all’s experience, which way would you go? Am I missing anything?

    Anecdotally,

    I would probably go with an upper from LaRue, They make a solid upper thats a pretty good value and think that if there was an area that you would pay a premium, it should be for the optics.
     

    Baron85

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    I would want a flatter shooting cartridge especially for night hunting where it’s very difficult to judge distance. I ended up building a 22nxs for this purpose it’s basically a hot rod 22 nosler. 55s at 3670 from a 20” barrel. In a small frame AR.

    And I would build unless the Larue or other brand is exactly what you want. If you end up starting to change a piece here and there because it’s not exactly what you wanted it ends up costing you more
     

    BigRed308

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    I would want a flatter shooting cartridge especially for night hunting where it’s very difficult to judge distance. I ended up building a 22nxs for this purpose it’s basically a hot rod 22 nosler. 55s at 3670 from a 20” barrel. In a small frame AR.

    And I would build unless the Larue or other brand is exactly what you want. If you end up starting to change a piece here and there because it’s not exactly what you wanted it ends up costing you more
    Ive looked into them and I do reload, but its a time constraint.

    I find myself buying more box ammo to be able to shoot instead of loosing a night or 2 to reload.
     
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    smarcus

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    My 18 inch Proof CF. If I was gonna build one without the Proof CF Barrel I would just buy the larue upper.


    (YDS) (FPS) (FT.-LB)
    0 2452 1642
    50 2372 1536
    100 2293 1436
    150 2216 1341
    200 2140 1250
    250 2065 1165
    300 1993 1084
    350 1921 1008
    400 1852 937
    450 1784 869
    500 1718 806
    550 1654 747
    600 1592 692
    650 1532 641
    700 1475 594
    750 1419 550
    800 1367 510
    850 1317 474
    900 1270 441
    950 1227 411
    1000 1187 385


    18 Grendel Proof Reap.jpg
     
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    Snuby642

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    How is the accuracy on that proof barrel?

    I have a questionable barrel that may need replacement if I can't get a load to work.
     

    smarcus

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    How is the accuracy on that proof barrel?

    I have a questionable barrel that may need replacement if I can't get a load to work.

    It's fantastic. Sub MOA with factory Hornady SST's. I don't really shoot it for groups but I have a 6mm CM in my AI AT-X that shoots .5 MOA with Prime 107's. All 4-5 of my Proof's shoot great.
     

    FuhQ

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    How is the accuracy on that proof barrel?

    I have a questionable barrel that may need replacement if I can't get a load to work.
    Don't know about the Proof barrel, but the above group I posted was with my 20" Faxon 416r 5R Match heavy barrel. I've been pretty impressed with it so far. It took about 50 rounds or so to settle-in, but once it did, it's been a tack-driver ever since.
     
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    BigRed308

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    I did just put together the Larue is 18" 1in 7 twist. I am not sure on the gas system-I need to make a call, but any hesitations with 18" 1 in 7 barrel?


    Why the specification on only a CF Proof. I haven't considered weight to be an issue on this rifle-did I overlook it as a potential issue?

    If I was gonna build one without the Proof CF Barrel I would just buy the larue upper.
     

    smarcus

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    I did just put together the Larue is 18" 1in 7 twist. I am not sure on the gas system-I need to make a call, but any hesitations with 18" 1 in 7 barrel?


    Why the specification on only a CF Proof. I haven't considered weight to be an issue on this rifle-did I overlook it as a potential issue?


    The combination of weight savings, cut rifling and stiffness for a suppressor make the Proof highly desirable to me and usually worth the extra money. The Larue is an excellent barrel and the complete upper is an excellent, easy package so if I was going for a steel 18 inch Grendel I see it as the best solution.
     

    BigRed308

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    The combination of weight savings, cut rifling and stiffness for a suppressor make the Proof highly desirable to me and usually worth the extra money. The Larue is an excellent barrel and the complete upper is an excellent, easy package so if I was going for a steel 18 inch Grendel I see it as the best solution.

    Are the proof stainless blanks not cut rifling and equally as stiff?

    I always understood the big advantage being weight savings for CF Proofs.
     

    smarcus

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    Are the proof stainless blanks not cut rifling and equally as stiff?

    I always understood the big advantage being weight savings for CF Proofs.

    Yes the Proof stainless are cut rifled and very stiff. The benefit to the CF is lower weight. The Proof Stainless is an excellent barrel.
     
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    BigRed308

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    Yes the Proof stainless are cut rifled and very stiff. The benefit to the CF is lower weight. The Proof Stainless is an excellent barrel.


    That was going to be my barrel choice if building on my own.

    Just wanted to make sure I didn’t miss anything.
     

    Bevo

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    I have a 20" Proof stainless that likes 123 ELD-M. Factory ELD-M is running at 2550 fps and it routinely groups under 3/4 MOA.

    My main night rig is a Grendel SBR w/ a 12.5" Rainier Ultramatch barrel. It's surprisingly accurate. Loves 123gr SST and Barnes VOR-TX. Rainier has 16" and 18" offerings as well.
     
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    The King

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    I had excellent luck with the Larue 6.5G. I think its one of the better setups in 6.5G right now.

    Mine was extremely good with the Wolf ammo as well. Sub-moa if barely. For blaster ammo it was great.
     
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    BigRed308

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    I had excellent luck with the Larue 6.5G. I think its one of the better setups in 6.5G right now.

    Mine was extremely good with the Wolf ammo as well. Sub-moa if barely. For blaster ammo it was great.
    what weight projectiles have you been throwing? Little hesitant on 1 in 7 twist
     

    BigRed308

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    Started Life as a full LaRue Grendel rifle. Ended up replacing the barrel with a Craddock Precision almost immediately also swapped out the BCG for a JP.. The HSM ammo shot the best for me but it hasn't been available for an eternity.

    Let me ask this…. Why did you scrap the bolt and barrel?
     

    strike33

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    I wasn't that impressed with the accuracy out of the the factory barrel. The JP BCG is unbelievably smooth and slick. Last upgrade will be the JP SCS. I will say that the LaRue MBT is terrific..especially for the price. I prefer it over the Geisseles that I have installed.
     

    BigRed308

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    I wasn't that impressed with the accuracy out of the the factory barrel. The JP BCG is unbelievably smooth and slick. Last upgrade will be the JP SCS. I will say that the LaRue MBT is terrific..especially for the price. I prefer it over the Geisseles that I have installed.
    Full mass or VMOS and which weight scs are you looking at?
     

    bigjake83

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    I wasn't that impressed with the accuracy out of the the factory barrel. The JP BCG is unbelievably smooth and slick. Last upgrade will be the JP SCS. I will say that the LaRue MBT is terrific..especially for the price. I prefer it over the Geisseles that I have installed.
    That's what I did, The Craddock Bartlein barrels are amazingly accurate, I've only shot it a couple times but it seems to love the Hornady Black 123grn.
     
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    3GN

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    If u interested i have 18 inch 6.5 grendel
     

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    BigRed308

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    Okay, went with a build. Proof 20” .750 gas on the way. Wanting to run a JP VMOS with a SCS.

    Ordered a SA adjustable gas block-what buffer weight do you think? H2?

    Running unsupressed until my Silencerco is freed.
     

    bigjake83

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    Okay, went with a build. Proof 20” .750 gas on the way. Wanting to run a JP VMOS with a SCS.

    Ordered a SA adjustable gas block-what buffer weight do you think? H2?

    Running unsupressed until my Silencerco is freed.
    Unless you're going to run it surpressed 100% the VMOS isn't necessary, and honestly don't think it's really necessary if you run the Standard full mass BCG and H2 buffer especially since you've got a AGB as well.

    I have yet to see ANY small frame AR actually need the VMOS BCG.
     

    BigRed308

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    Unless you're going to run it surpressed 100% the VMOS isn't necessary, and honestly don't think it's really necessary if you run the Standard full mass BCG and H2 buffer especially since you've got a AGB as well.

    I have yet to see ANY small frame AR actually need the VMOS BCG.
    So a full mass is good to good with a H2 suppressed and unsupressed?

    This is my first venture into suppressed gas guns.
     
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    FuhQ

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    Unless you're going to run it surpressed 100% the VMOS isn't necessary, and honestly don't think it's really necessary if you run the Standard full mass BCG and H2 buffer especially since you've got a AGB as well.

    I have yet to see ANY small frame AR actually need the VMOS BCG.
    Stick an H3 buffer in it with a full-mass BCG, and see how smooth it gets with a rifle-length gas system, and a good can on the end. 😉👍🏼

    Mine works perfectly both suppressed and unsuppressed with an H3 buffer and full-mass BCG.
     

    hlee

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    So a full mass is good to good with a H2 suppressed and unsupressed?

    This is my first venture into suppressed gas guns.
    Both of my 6.5 grendels (18" intermediate gas and 22" rifle gas) run fine both suppressed and not (without gas adjustment) with a full mass carrier. The 22" has a standard weight SCS and the 18" has an H1 buffer. They may be slightly overgassed while suppressed (2:30-3:00 ejection), but they both function without issue without monkeying with the gas blocks. They drop brass in like a 2' (or less) diameter circle about 4-5 ft from the ejection port- with or without a can- and shoot tiny groups. I wouldn't overthink this too much.
     

    Snuby642

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    What @bigjake83 said +1 .
    I also put a + 10% flatwire spring in mine.

    Standard bcg, no adjustable parts besides gas block.
     

    Wile_Coyote

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    Both of my 6.5 grendels (18" intermediate gas and 22" rifle gas) run fine both suppressed and not (without gas adjustment) with a full mass carrier. The 22" has a standard weight SCS and the 18" has an H1 buffer. They may be slightly overgassed while suppressed (2:30-3:00 ejection), but they both function without issue without monkeying with the gas blocks. They drop brass in like a 2' (or less) diameter circle about 4-5 ft from the ejection port- with or without a can- and shoot tiny groups. I wouldn't overthink this too much.
    Same here. The 18” I had was standard block, full mass carrier and H2 buffer in a carbine stock. Ran like a clock.? The 20” I have is the same with the exception of the buffer. Still H2 but a SCS. It’s has rifle and car stocks. Runs perfectly suppressed and not. Factory ammo and custom loaded usually in the 120g range.

    The Grendel has been a real solid cartridge in an AR platform. I haven’t seen the need for all the adjustability that something like my 6mm Creedmoor needed or one of my 6.5 Creedmoor’s needed. Granted those are large frame and the Grendel isn’t.