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6.5G /6.5C Parts Interchangeability

bob332

Private
Minuteman
Jul 21, 2018
5
0
Phoenix, AZ, USA
Hello,

I was going to go a 6.5Grendel build (and still may do as I have all the parts less Optic (Athlon seem to be a good price/performance ratio, only part that has me spooked is their lack of length in the industry, but I have read where there founders come from, this will not be a rifle using a Schmidt & Bender Optic, just can't go there at the current time), SA ADJ Gas Block and one flavor of a Harris Bipod) one for targets out to 600yds/ hunting out to 300yds (if an ethical shot is able to be taken) but doing more and more research, the 6.5Creedmoor seems like the rifle for me, I would rather have too much gun than too little gun.



Now the question - the ar15/6.5G (and many others based on the smaller AR15 platform) is pretty spec'd out and you buy parts and MOST (unless somebody really screwed up) of the time parts fit just fine, even though different manf, they fit near perfectly, and I am talking 80% lowers, stripped upper and just about everything else.



Since I woukd rather have to much gun than too I started doing my research on the 6.5C, and I am finding this the case w/ the 6.5C in any way (or I have just found the wrong parts lists, either way it is not working out).



I like to build my own rifles, so 80% lower in the white, stripped upper in the white (have a friend that owns an up-to-date AS9100/ISO9001machine shop, including a line of TYPE III CLASS II (MIL-A-8625F) anodizing setup (most of there work is is in the aerospace arena, but he is a gun guy so no reason to let all that CNC equipment sitting with no work (rarely, but times do come from time to time)) and I have access to a manual 'old skool' "hobby"mill and 2 lathes (when I say 'old skool' "hobby" it is just that they were highly overbuilt compared to today's "hobby" mills & lathes of today).



Since I explained what I have available to me, I am leaning toward the DPMS GEN 1 (which I believe to be compatible with AR10A as far as the lowers go), would prefer using Magpul magazines (for variety of capacity and the fact that work pretty much all the time). Now here comes the questions - do any ar15 lower parts wek in these lowers, and I do not even know where to start with the upper, other than the price between a Ballistic Advantage barrel and the higher end barrels is not too far off (again, what I have read so far, for all I know the prices could be relatively close is because the BA barrel is a complete, finished barrel and the higher end models may just be a barrel blank, which taking a barrel blank to a finished barrel is above my pay grade).



So, could somebody list or point me to a spreadsheet showing not only what is AR15 compatible, but also what is DPMS Gen 1 compatible?



My goals is a mechanically capable of 1MOA out to atleast 1000yds, the rest is on me barrel can be 16-20" - whatever will get the job done and a lightweight BCG w/ ADJ gas block (multiple mechanical & neuromuscular shoulder issues) & build as lite as while not breaking the bank, if possible - would rather not be toting a 15# rifle around when a 10# (if at all possible would do the same job, not wanting this to be a bench gun).

Thanks in advance for your assistance,

Bob



While I do like to build my own items, are the Aero Precision 6.5C rifles capable of what I am wanting? I believe the use Ballistic Advantage barrels, but if they are capable of what I am wanting, that may be an option and if it is an option does it lock me in to their family? Or going with any family lock me in?
 



Found these and more by searching "AR15 AR10 parts commonality".

AeroPrecision large frame rifles are based on the DPMS pattern and their M5 rifles will probably do everything you need them to do.
 
Thanks for the responses. Is the dual ejector necessary? Is there a lightweight BCG that is quality (I think 8620) steel QPQ that doesn't break the bank (not to concerned whether both is 9310 or Carpenter 158, unless I should be?)? Is 10# doable with a barrel diameter of .836" (Insert diameter if 20" ~.836" is a no go & puts it over 10#, I think that is the next size up over .750", or is .750" more than adequate for my goals?) considering no fluting? Any particular brand of Go/No Go Gauges that are superior than others? Which 80‰ to go with it should I go with a (insert brand here) upper, lower & rail (billet IMHO) is not necessary unless somebody has a matching upper/lower Soldworks file that is known to be within tolerance (DPMS GEN 1).
Again, thanks for the links,
Bob